Raw Material Traceability
Licorice · Glycyrrhiza glabra / Glycyrrhiza uralensis
Soothing and brightening; water-alcohol extraction, commonly paired with niacinamide and vitamin C derivatives.
Raw Material Profile
The following is general information about this plant, which can be publicly verified.
Scientific Name
Glycyrrhiza glabra / Glycyrrhiza uralensis
INCI
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Common Origin Regions
Xinjiang, China · Inner Mongolia
Plant Part Used
Roots and Rhizomes
Key Active Ingredients
Glycyrrhizic acid, liquiritin; Glycyrrhiza glabra also contains glabridin (Glabridin)
Common Application Areas
Soothing and brightening applications; water-alcohol extraction, commonly combined with niacinamide and vitamin C derivatives.
The key to this ingredient
In formulations, 'licorice' refers to two species: Glycyrrhiza glabra and Glycyrrhiza uralensis. Glabridin is primarily derived from the former — for skin brightening claims, it is essential to identify the correct species; using the wrong one will invalidate the claim.
Formulation notes from public formulation practice and factory experience. Not regulatory limits.
Where it is used
10 formulas on file use this material
Open any one for the full process window.
- SK-SE009serum · brightening / clarifying
- SK-ES030essence · brightening / clarifying
- SK-CR048cream · brightening / clarifying
- SK-SH080sheet-mask · brightening / clarifying
- SK-MA082mask · brightening / clarifying
- SK-JE102jelly-mask · brightening / clarifying
- SK-SE105serum · herbal-brightening / even-tone
- SK-LO118lotion · herbal-brightening / even-tone
- SK-CR121cream · herbal-brightening / even-tone
- SK-SH132sheet-mask · herbal-brightening / even-tone
Mechanism — see the Chinese entry; not machine-translated.
Formulation and process notes
The three things that actually go wrong at sampling stage.
配伍禁忌与翻车点
1)与低 pH 体系冲突:甘草酸/甘草酸盐在 pH 降到 4 以下会转成溶解度很低的游离酸,和高浓度抗坏血酸精华(体系 pH 常在 3 附近)同锅,放置几天出现浑浊或白色絮状沉淀,过滤也回不来。2)与阳离子调理剂(聚季铵盐-7/10、西曲氯铵、山嵛基三甲基氯化铵)形成不溶复合物,洁面和护发体系表现为料体发浑、粘度明显掉、泡沫变粗。3)皂苷部分会干扰卡波姆中和体系的表观粘度,先加提取物再中和,粘度常比小样低一截。4)高浓度乙醇体系中黄酮类先溶后析,兑水稀释时出现雾状浑浊。5)与含铁的色粉、铁质设备接触会加深颜色。
稳定性
提取物本体呈浅黄至棕黄色。pH 上到 7 以上颜色明显加深并向黄褐偏移;黄酮类见光遇氧缓慢氧化,长期光照下色相变深、气味往「药材味」走;80℃ 以上长时间保温同样加深颜色。常见防护做法:降温后加、配 0.05–0.1% EDTA 二钠或植酸做螯合、体系 pH 控在 4.5–6.0、用避光或深色内包,并做 45℃/3 个月与光照对照,验收标准写成色差上限而不是「无明显变化」。
工厂投料要点
粉状规格必须先用少量甘油或丙二醇打浆分散再入水相,直接撒进水里会结块挂在桶壁上,实际投料量偏低。皂苷含量高的规格在搅拌下起泡明显,建议低转速、抽真空溶解,泡沫带进乳化会造成液位假高、计量不准、灌装装量不足。乳化体系一律降温到 45℃ 以下后加,不要随水相同煮。与卡波姆体系搭配时先中和到目标粘度、再加提取物,顺序反过来容易出现粘度回落。放大生产的主要坑是批间色差:不同产地、不同提取溶剂的批次色相肉眼可辨,量产前先比三批色卡并把色相范围写进内控。
Regulatory status
The latest official text prevails.
中国已使用化妆品原料目录
目录序号 02616 · 标准中文名称「光果甘草（GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA）根提取物」(国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告附件)
最高历史使用量
驻留类 5.5%。按公告说明八,可作为《化妆品安全评估报告(简化版)》的证据类型;这是历史收录值,不是法规限值。
中国
作为化妆品原料属常规使用方向,需核对该原料的收录状态与使用部位,并按目标市场规则复核;以最新官方文本为准。
欧盟
作为植物提取物属常规使用方向,需完成安全评估并复核该市场对植物提取物的限制清单;以最新官方文本为准。
美国
属常规使用方向,按该市场化妆品监管框架与行业安全评估惯例复核;以最新官方文本为准。
亚太
日韩及东南亚对草本原料接受度高,属常规使用方向,需按各国原料目录与备案要求分别复核;以最新官方文本为准。
Need a test report for licorice root ingredients?
Batch-by-batch testing for active ingredient content, pesticide residues, and heavy metals.