Dr Dennis Gross dr dennis gross advanced retinol ferulic intense wrinkle cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water/Aqua/Eau
2. Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
3. Glycerin
4. Diisostearyl Malate
5. Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
6. Cetearyl Alcohol
7. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
8. Dimethicone
9. Propylene Glycol
10. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
11. Cetyl Alcohol
12. Bakuchiol
13. Retinol
14. Ferulic Acid
15. Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract
16. Sodium Hyaluronate
17. Squalane
18. Oenothera Biennis Oil
19. Ceramide NG
20. Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
21. Silybum Marianum Extract
22. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
23. Jojoba Esters
24. Soy Isoflavones
25. Phospholipids
26. Saccharide Isomerate
27. Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
28. Centella Asiatica Extract
29. Ursolic Acid
30. Adenosine
31. Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
32. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
33. Arnica Montana Flower Extract
34. Salix Alba Bark Extract
35. Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
36. Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
37. Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
38. Glycine Soja Oil
39. Tocopherol
40. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
41. Lactic Acid
42. Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
43. Pentylene Glycol
44. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
45. Ethylhexylglycerin
46. Butylene Glycol
47. Tetrahydropiperine
48. Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
49. Ethylhexyl Olivate
50. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
51. Glyceryl Caprylate
52. Maltodextrin
53. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
54. Sodium Phytate
55. Citric Acid
56. Sodium Citrate
57. BHT
58. Ilomastat
59. Citrus Limon Peel Extract
60. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract
61. Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
62. Limonene
63. Citral
64. Linalool
65. Phenoxyethanol
66. Benzyl Alcohol
67. Sodium Benzoate
68. Potassium Sorbate

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains siliconesContains animal-derivedContains essential oilsContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergensContains alcohol

Formulation view Anti-wrinkle cream containing retinol, bakuchiol, and ferulic acid. Lipid phase includes shea butter, diisostearyl malate, and dimethicone for moisturizing. Enriched with plant oils and ferments. Ideal for overnight intensive repair, with manufacturing focus on retinol stability and packaging light-blocking performance.

Key ingredients

溶剂

Water/Aqua/Eau

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Methyl Glucose SesquistearateDiisostearyl MalateCaprylyl Caprylate/CaprateCetearyl Alcohol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

Other ingredients

Propylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetyl AlcoholBakuchiolRetinolFerulic AcidNephelium Lappaceum Leaf ExtractSodium HyaluronateSqualaneOenothera Biennis OilCeramide NGEmblica Officinalis Fruit ExtractSilybum Marianum ExtractPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis OilJojoba EstersSoy IsoflavonesPhospholipidsSaccharide IsomerateHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit OilCentella Asiatica ExtractUrsolic AcidAdenosineCamellia Japonica Seed OilHelianthus Annuus Seed OilArnica Montana Flower ExtractSalix Alba Bark ExtractPyrus Malus Fruit ExtractHydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerGlycine Soja OilTocopherolSodium Acetylated HyaluronateLactic AcidHydrolyzed Soy ProteinPentylene GlycolSodium Stearoyl GlutamateEthylhexylglycerinButylene GlycolTetrahydropiperinePolyglyceryl-4 OleateEthylhexyl OlivateGlyceryl Stearate CitrateGlyceryl CaprylateMaltodextrinSodium Acrylates CopolymerSodium PhytateCitric AcidSodium CitrateBHTIlomastatCitrus Limon Peel ExtractCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit ExtractLavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem ExtractLimoneneCitralLinaloolPhenoxyethanolBenzyl AlcoholSodium BenzoatePotassium Sorbate

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water/Aqua/Eau

Primary aqueous solvent and carrier; no specific incompatibilities, focus on microbial stability.

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Mild non-ionic emulsifier with moderate water solubility, used as anti-static and skin feel modifier

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Diisostearyl Malate

Diisostearyl malate; lightweight emollient and emulsifier; non-greasy feel, biodegradable, used in premium systems.

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate

Light synthetic ester emollient; non-greasy, low comedogenic risk, suitable for oily and sensitive skin formulas.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol; antioxidant and conditioning. Often an A-alternative, prone to oxidation and color shift, needs stabilization.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Ferulic Acid

Antioxidant, often combined with vitamin C and E; 0.5-2%, photolabile

Nephelium Lappaceum Leaf Extract

Nephelium leaf extract; calming properties; limited data, patch test recommended.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Natural oil rich in GLA; supports barrier, prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants

Ceramide NG

Skin lipid repair ingredient to restore barrier; non-irritating, suitable for sensitive and compromised skin

Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract

Amla fruit extract rich in vitamin C for skin conditioning; stability required in formulation.

Silybum Marianum Extract

Silybum marianum extract containing silymarin, used for skin conditioning and antioxidant

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Sweet almond oil, light emollient; suitable for sensitive skin, caution for nut allergies.

Jojoba Esters

Jojoba esters, light emollient ester, low comedogenic; sebum-like, excellent spreadability.

Soy Isoflavones

Soy isoflavones; phytoestrogen antioxidant; topically safe, high dose may affect endocrine.

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Sea buckthorn oil, rich in carotenoids/Vit E/PUFA; strong antioxidant, light-sensitive, prone to oxidation.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Ursolic Acid

Ursolic acid for fragrance note and skin conditioning; natural source, watch oxidation

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Light emollient oil with refined feel; low comedogenic, suitable for most skin.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Arnica extract; plant soothing/perfume alternative; low conc, potential sensitizer, patch test advised

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Contains natural salicylic acid precursors, mild exfoliating and antibacterial; may irritate at high levels; avoid in sensitive skin.

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Apple fruit extract, polyphenols for conditioning and antioxidant; batch variation needs standardization

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid derivative with better penetration and strong hydration; different molecular weights provide hydration at various depths, typical concentration 0.1-1%.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Crosslinked high-MW HA; forms surface hydrogel for long-lasting hydration, minimal penetration, physical film-forming.

Glycine Soja Oil

Soybean oil emollient; prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants; suitable for dry skin

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Acetylated HA; modified for hydrophobicity, improved penetration and non-tacky feel compared to standard HA.

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Hydrolyzed soy protein for hydration and antistatic effect; soy is a common allergen requiring labeling, low comedogenicity.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Mild amino-acid surfactant, poor solubility, pairs with fatty alcohols, fine foam.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Tetrahydropiperine

Tetrahydropiperine for penetration enhancement and conditioning; potential irritancy risk

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Non-ionic emulsifier derived from plant oils; gentle, used in O/W or W/O systems, low irritancy.

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Oleate ester emollient; light feel, high comedogenic rating, limit for acne-prone skin.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Emulsifying stabilizer and emollient at 2–5%; provides creamy texture, check compatibility with anionic surfactants

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.

Sodium Phytate

Chelating agent stabilizes metal ions to prevent oxidative degradation; also used in oral care, high safety profile.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

BHT

Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.

Ilomastat

Chelating and skin conditioning agent for stability; verify specific composition

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Lemon peel extract rich in flavonoids for conditioning and antioxidant; check for furanocoumarins, caution for sensitive skin.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Bergamot extract with citrus scent; phototoxic risk, best avoided in leave-on products exposed to sun.

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Aromatic skin conditioning extract; contains fragrance allergens, test for sensitivity.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citral

Citral; citrus fragrance component, listed EU allergen, high phototoxicity risk, strict concentration limits apply.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

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