Oil control · Soothing · Antioxidant
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
白柳树皮提取物
- INCI
- Salix Alba Bark Extract
- Family
- 植物提取物
- Typical use level
- 0.5–3%;若规格标注水杨苷含量,按供应商推荐区间执行
- pH window
- 4.0–6.5
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1) 含单宁,与阳离子调理剂、水解蛋白、多肽类会絮凝或产生沉淀,机理与金缕梅同类。含肽精华里加白柳树皮是这一库里最高频的翻车组合之一,而且经常是灌装完成、静置几天后才出现絮状。2) 多酚遇铁离子显色发暗,必须配螯合剂并保证 316L 设备与器具。3) 与高浓度锌盐、铜盐共用变色。4) 与真正的水杨酸(BHA)叠加时要注意:整个配方的酸负担与刺激来自水杨酸本身,不要因为「都是柳树来的」就在刺激评估上放松,这是心理上的坑不是化学上的坑。5) 与皂基等强碱体系不宜,多酚快速氧化变褐。6) 与高醇体系相对相容,但颜色会加深更快。
Stability
多酚与单宁见光遇氧褐变,水提物由浅黄棕向深棕漂移,pH 越高越快,建议锁在 4.0–5.5 并加螯合剂,配深色或避光包材。另一个容易被忽略的点:水杨苷在酸性与高温条件下可能水解,长时间高温保温会改变成品的检测值。如果客户是按水杨苷含量验收的,工艺参数(加料温度、保温时长、搅拌方式)必须固定并写进批记录,否则每批检测值会飘,而工厂拿不出解释。加料温度建议 45°C 以下。透明包材里的色变是投诉重灾区,方案阶段就该劝客户用深色瓶。
Processing notes
1) 这条原料最大的风险不在工艺而在宣称:客户经常把它当「天然水杨酸」「植物 BHA」来卖。实际提取物的水杨苷含量低,水杨苷也不等于水杨酸,拿它去支撑「可替代水杨酸去角质」既缺乏依据也容易被平台和监管盯上。工厂侧的正确做法是在报价单与技术资料里写明所用规格的水杨苷含量(或明确注明未检测),并书面说明它不等同于水杨酸,把宣称的决定权和沟通记录都留痕。2) 客户如果确实要去角质表现,直接用水杨酸或其它酸类并按目标市场规则设计,不要靠提高白柳树皮加量硬凑——加量上去只会带来颜色加深和单宁配伍问题,去角质表现不会跟着上来。3) 按后加料处理,降温 40°C 以下,先做 1:5 预稀释。4) 与含肽、含阳离子调理剂的配方同锅前必须小试并静置观察 48–72 小时;放大后剪切更强,絮凝表现比小样更明显,小样勉强通过不代表能放大。5) 单宁会染管道与滤芯,做浅色产品前的换线要加清洗步骤。6) 提取物偏酸会把体系 pH 拉低,加完复测并回调,记录进批记录。
What it addresses
标志性成分是水杨苷(salicin),另有多酚与单宁。这里必须说清一件事:水杨苷是糖苷,不是水杨酸,两者在结构、酸性和在配方中的行为上都不同;商品化提取物中的水杨苷含量通常很低,而且在皮肤表面并没有可靠的转化路径把它变成足量的水杨酸。因此在配方里,它更接近一个温和的多酚型控油与舒缓配角,而不是酸类去角质活性物。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用方向;需确认原料目录收录与原料安全信息码,并避免与水杨酸相关的功效表述混用;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用方向;不可借用水杨酸的相关口径来支撑本原料的宣称;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用方向;若产品文案暗示其等同于水杨酸类去角质活性,存在被视为不实宣称或药妆用语的风险,必须经法务复核;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用方向;部分市场对功效宣称有备案与证据要求,「天然水杨酸」类表述风险更高;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 01159
- Standard Chinese name
- 白柳（SALIX ALBA）树皮提取物
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 13.5%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 8.716%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (01159)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (80071) · 功能 ASTRINGENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOOTHING, TONIC
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 白柳,白柳树皮,柳树皮提取物,Salix alba,White Willow Bark Extract
- CAS
- 84082-82-6(以供应商 COA 复核)
- Suits formats
- Toner · Essence · Serum · Gel · Cream · Sheet mask · Cleanser
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;醇提规格的清真认定需另行评估,并要求供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingSalvia Miltiorrhiza Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingAngelica Sinensis Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPaeonia Lactiflora Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPanax Ginseng Root ExtractAnti-ageing
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.