Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract

Incompatibilities and failure points

典型的「单看没事、一起就浑」。1)与蛋白及多肽类原料(水解胶原、水解小麦蛋白、各类信号肽/铜肽)形成不溶复合物,先是料体发浑,几天后底部出现絮状沉淀。2)与阳离子表活及阳离子聚合物(聚季铵盐-10/7、西曲氯铵)直接絮凝,护发体系里粘度会崩。3)与季铵盐类杀菌/防腐组分同样会相互失活,防腐挑战必须重做而不能沿用历史数据。4)与铁离子生成蓝黑色络合物,是深色斑点的经典来源。5)高浓度电解质共存时溶解度下降。

Stability

多酚在 pH 升高时氧化加快,料体由浅黄转褐;溶氧与光照都会加速。常见防护做法:pH 控在 4.0–5.5、配 EDTA 二钠或植酸、避免任何铁质接触、降低瓶内顶空、选避光包材。关键一点是稳定性考察不能只测单方——必须做「与体系内肽类/阳离子共存」的兼容测试,并加做 4℃ 与 45℃ 冷热循环,絮凝在常温放置里往往三个月都不显形,冷热循环两周就出来了。

Processing notes

和肽类、蛋白类同处一个配方时,两者要分别用不同溶剂稀释,加入时间点拉开:先加白芍分散均匀,再缓慢滴加肽液,一次性对冲最容易当场起絮。成品必须在 45℃ 与 4℃ 各放四周观察,冷热循环比常温更能暴露问题。清洁与护发体系里如果必须与阳离子共存,考虑改用增溶或包裹规格,或者把白芍放到不含阳离子的段位。溶解时避免长时间高剪切,带进去的气泡会让澄清度判断失真,量产时常因此误判为「浑浊」而返工。降温后加。

What it addresses

主要含芍药苷类与含量较高的单宁(可水解与缩合鞣质)。在汉方复配里是高频配角,常用于舒缓与紧致方向的整体设计,同时对肤感有收敛性的贡献。单宁含量是它所有配伍问题的根源,选料时要向供应商索取单宁或总多酚的含量范围,而不是只看 INCI。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为化妆品原料属常规使用方向,需核对收录状态与使用部位并按目标市场规则复核;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

属常规使用方向,需完成安全评估并复核该市场对植物提取物的限制清单;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

属常规使用方向,按该市场化妆品监管框架与行业安全评估惯例复核;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

汉方复配线使用普遍,属常规使用方向,需按各国原料目录分别复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

05979

Standard Chinese name

芍药（PAEONIA LACTIFLORA）根提取物

Max historical use, leave-on

1.3%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (05979)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (58067) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

芍药根提取物,杭白芍,White Peony Root Extract,Paeonia lactiflora

CAS

无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)

Suits formats

Serum · Essence · Toner · Lotion · Cream · Sheet mask · Gel

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做 vegan;需确认提取溶剂与载体;清真需供应商出具证明。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

中

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