Barrier repair · Repair · Soothing · Conditioning
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
月见草油
- INCI
- Oenothera Biennis Oil
- Family
- 植物油脂
- Typical use level
- 乳霜、精华常见 1–5%；油类产品做主体时需强抗氧化体系与阻隔包材配合。以上为公开配方学常见添加区间，非法规限值。
- pH window
- 4.5–7.5
Want to build around this direction? Tell us your positioning and our formulators will tell you whether it works, in which format, and roughly on what timeline.
Incompatibilities and failure points
① 未螯合的金属离子显著加速自氧化，含矿物粉体、天然色素或用非去离子水配制时螯合剂是强制项。② 与三乙醇胺、氨甲基丙醇等胺类中和剂长期共存，氧化生成的醛类与胺反应会导致黄变，浅色乳液上尤其刺眼。③ 不与过氧化苯甲酰、氧化型染烫等含氧化性活性的体系同处一相。④ 与含醇的清爽型精华共配时，酒精挥发会把油耗味顶出来，气味阈值被拉低，香精遮盖的效果比在膏霜里差得多。⑤ 与香精的相互作用必须提前验证：氧化产物会改变香型走向，含月见草油的配方一定要做加速后香型复评，不能只评刚做完的样。
Stability
① 属高氧化风险油脂，GLA 与亚油酸的活性亚甲基是链反应起点；无保护时数周即可测出过氧化值上升，气味先转生青后转哈喇。② 光、热、氧、金属四个因子权重相当，缺任何一条防护，其余三条的投入都会被抵消。③ 包材是这支油的成败关键，必须在选瓶阶段决定而不是配方定稿后再补：透氧率高的薄壁 PE 软管、薄壁 PET、带敞口滴管的透明瓶会让抗氧化体系在货架上被慢慢耗尽；深色玻璃、EVOH 多层阻隔管、真空瓶、单剂量安瓿才是匹配的选项。④ 保护组合：0.1–0.3% 混合生育酚 + 脱味级迷迭香提取物 + 0.1% 螯合剂 + 氮气顶空。⑤ 保质期承诺保守：常规建议 12 个月并配短 PAO；客户若坚持透明 PET，必须书面下调保质期预期，把责任说在前面。⑥ 来料到货即测过氧化值与酸值，并核对 COA 的检测日期——在供应商仓库压了几个月的桶货不能按新油用。
Processing notes
① 冷补：降至 40–45 ℃ 以下加入；抗氧化剂先预溶于月见草油本体再入体系，不要靠它从别的相扩散过去。② 配制过程控氧：氮气置换或抽真空搅拌，避免长时间高速均质把空气打进膏体。③ 开桶后立刻氮气覆盖并分装小桶，开桶后建议一个月内用完。④ 稳定性试验必须用真实包材，并同时跑常温实时与 40–45 ℃ 加速；只用玻璃瓶跑加速会得到系统性偏乐观的结论。⑤ 打样阶段就把候选包材列出来做平行稳定性，把「选瓶」变成配方交付的一部分——这是避免上市后返味投诉最有效的一步，也是最容易被客户催进度催掉的一步。
What it addresses
亚油酸为主体，并含少量 γ-亚麻酸（GLA），后者是它相对其他常用植物油的差异点，也是客户点名要它的原因。用于补充屏障脂质中 ω-6 系必需脂肪酸的方向，肤感轻、渗透快。分子中双烯丙基结构比例高，氧化风险明显高于油酸型油脂——卖点和工艺代价是绑在一起的，接单时就该一起谈。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 作为植物油脂类原料常规使用，按原料目录收录情况与备案资料要求复核；以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟常规使用，按成品安全评估与 INCI 标注执行；以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 美国按化妆品成分常规使用，重点复核标签与宣称口径；以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚普遍使用，各地按当地原料目录与标签规则复核；以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 08450
- Standard Chinese name
- 月见草（OENOTHERA BIENNIS）油
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 15%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 5%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (08450)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (35639) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 月见草油,晚樱草油,夜来香油,Evening Primrose Oil,Oenothera biennis
- CAS
- 无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Face oil · Cream · Lotion · Sheet mask · Balm
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源，通常可做 vegan；清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingSqualaneConditioning
- Imagery pendingArgania Spinosa Kernel OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingCamellia Oleifera Seed OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingRosa Canina Fruit OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit OilAntioxidant
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.