Conditioning · Repair · Barrier repair · Antioxidant
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
玫瑰果油
- INCI
- Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
- Family
- 植物油脂
- Typical use level
- 乳霜、精华常见 1–5%（上限主要由氧化风险而非成本决定）；纯油产品可做主体，但需强抗氧化体系与阻隔包材配合。以上为公开配方学常见添加区间，非法规限值。
- pH window
- 4.5–7.5
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Incompatibilities and failure points
① 未螯合的铁、铜离子会显著加速自氧化，几周内即可闻到油耗味；含矿物粉体、天然色素或用非去离子水配制时，螯合剂是强制项。② 与高浓度乙醇或高浓度 AHA/BHA 的酸性体系共处，会加速游离脂肪酸释放并放大酸败气味，酸性精华里加玫瑰果油必须额外提高抗氧化剂并主动缩短保质期承诺。③ 与阳离子表活、季铵盐护发体系配伍时，氧化产生的醛酮会与胺类反应导致黄变，长期存放尤其明显。④ 不与过氧化苯甲酰、氧化型染烫等含氧化性活性的体系同处一相。⑤ 与香精共存要特别小心：氧化产生的醛类会改变香型走向，同一支香精在含玫瑰果油的基质里三个月后闻起来会明显不同，香型评估必须做加速后复评，不能只评刚做完的样。
Stability
① 典型的「卖点原料带工艺代价」：α-亚麻酸的双烯丙基氢是自氧化链反应的起点，无保护时室温下几周就能测出过氧化值上升，气味先转青草-鱼腥，再转哈喇。② 温度是最强的加速因子，方向性判断是每升高 10 ℃ 氧化速率成倍上升（仅作工艺决策方向，不作为定量依据），因此不建议与油相同升温到 80 ℃。③ 保护组合：0.1–0.3% 混合生育酚 + 脱味级迷迭香提取物 + 0.1% 螯合剂 + 氮气顶空 + 不透光包材（深色玻璃或阻隔管，避免透明 PET）。④ 见光褪色明显，初始橙金色会转浅黄再转褐，客户往往先因为颜色变化而判定变质。⑤ 保质期承诺要保守：即使做满保护，成品也建议按 12 个月以内谈，PAO 写短。⑥ 来料到货即测过氧化值与酸值，不要只看颜色，超阈值不入库。
Processing notes
① 一律冷补：乳化完成、降温至 40–45 ℃ 以下再加入，绝不与油相同升温。② 抗氧化剂要先溶进玫瑰果油本身再一起入体系，不要指望它从别的相扩散过来——这是很多「加了生育酚还是返味」案例的真正原因。③ 配制罐抽真空或氮气置换，搅拌避免打入空气，高速均质时间尽量压短。④ 开桶后强制氮气覆盖并分装小桶，避免大桶反复开盖；开桶后建议一个月内用完，超期重测过氧化值再决定是否投料。⑤ 包材必须在打样阶段定死：透氧高的薄壁 PE 软管、薄壁 PET 会把配方里做好的抗氧化保护在货架上慢慢耗光，深色玻璃、EVOH 阻隔管或真空瓶才匹配。⑥ 稳定性试验必须用真实包材，只用玻璃瓶跑 45 ℃ 得到的结论会系统性偏乐观。
What it addresses
多不饱和脂肪酸占比很高，亚油酸与 α-亚麻酸合计通常在七成上下，另含少量类胡萝卜素与生育酚。用于补充屏障脂质中的必需脂肪酸方向，肤感轻、渗透快、不留油膜。代价是这一脂肪酸结构本身就是氧化的靶点，配方里必须按「高氧化风险油」对待。另需提醒：市面流传的「天然维 A 酸」说法缺乏可靠依据，宣称上不要沿用，否则是可预见的合规风险。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 作为植物油脂类原料常规使用，按原料目录收录情况与备案资料要求复核；宣称口径需避开药理表述。以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟常规使用，按成品安全评估与 INCI 标注执行；宣称须符合功效宣称通用准则。以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 美国按化妆品成分常规使用；涉及「A 酸/视黄酸」类表述属高风险宣称，须删除。以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚普遍使用，各地按当地原料目录与标签规则复核；以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 02556
- Standard Chinese name
- 狗牙蔷薇（ROSA CANINA）果油
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 27.24%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 5%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (02556)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (79666) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 玫瑰果油,野蔷薇果油,犬蔷薇果油,玫瑰籽油,Rosehip Oil,Rosa canina
- CAS
- 无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Face oil · Cream · Lotion · Balm · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源，通常可做 vegan；清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingSqualaneConditioning
- Imagery pendingArgania Spinosa Kernel OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingCamellia Oleifera Seed OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit OilAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingButyrospermum Parkii ButterBarrier repair
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.