Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Incompatibilities and failure points

本身偏酸并含有机酸,会把体系 pH 拉低,与不耐酸的活性(部分肽类、某些防腐体系、需要中性区间的酶类或部分植提)同用必须先测终点 pH 再定配方。茶多酚类遇铁离子显蓝黑或墨绿,遇碱变深棕,必须加螯合剂并避免与碱剂局部接触。与阳离子调理剂共用会与多酚形成沉淀。与高浓度蛋白或肽类同用可能因多酚与蛋白结合而出现浑浊与肤感变化。与卡波类增稠体系配合时,它的酸度会压低体系 pH 使卡波失去粘度,须重新中和配平。

Stability

见光与遇氧会让多酚氧化,颜色由浅黄向红棕、深棕漂移,这是它最直观的老化信号。高温大幅加速变色。若储存期 pH 上行,变色进一步加快。醋酸类气味在高添加量时明显,包材若密封不佳还会随时间挥发流失,导致前后批次气味不一致。常见防护:螯合剂配水溶性抗氧组分、避光包材、控制瓶内顶空、pH 锁定在偏酸区间,加速试验必须逐周记录颜色曲线。

Processing notes

后段加入,45℃ 以下;加完立即复测 pH,并在此基础上决定中和方案,不要先把 pH 调好再加它。与卡波或丙烯酸酯类增稠体系配合的正确顺序是:先加它 → 复测 pH → 再中和到目标粘度;顺序颠倒会出现「加完就塌粘」。所有接触料体的设备与管路要确认材质,避免被酸侵蚀或释放铁离子,铁污染在这支料上会直接显色。灌装前过滤。放大生产要注意大罐顶空更大、搅拌带氧更多,氧化变色比小试更快,建议减少空转搅拌时间,必要时充氮保护。

What it addresses

由酵母与醋酸菌共生体系发酵红茶得到的滤液,含有机酸(醋酸、葡糖酸类为主)、茶多酚类与微量多糖。配方里同时承接「茶」与「发酵」两条叙事,常用于抗氧化与舒缓方向,同时会给体系带来明显的酸度。

Market direction

中国 / CN

按已使用原料目录与备案要求核对菌株与植物来源、规格及安全信息;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

常规使用方向,需完成安全评估与成分申报,共生发酵体系须提供菌株与工艺说明;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

常规使用方向,按目标市场规则复核标签写法与宣称边界;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

各市场按自身原料目录与进口要求逐一复核,发酵含醇工艺在部分市场需额外说明;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

03468

Standard Chinese name

酵母菌/木醋杆菌/红茶发酵产物

Max historical use, leave-on

9.8%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (03468)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Not listed

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

康普茶发酵物,红茶菌,Kombucha,Camellia sinensis

CAS

无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)

Suits formats

Toner · Essence · Serum · Sheet mask · Gel · Lotion

Halal and vegan

茶叶底物加微生物共生发酵,通常可做 vegan,须供应商出具培养基与助剂声明;清真需供应商出具证明,并重点确认发酵过程中乙醇的产生与去除方式。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

中

Others in this family

• Imagery pendingBifida Ferment LysateBarrier repair
• Imagery pendingGalactomyces Ferment FiltrateHydrating
• Imagery pendingSaccharomyces Ferment FiltrateHydrating
• Imagery pendingLactobacillus/Soybean Ferment ExtractBarrier repair
• Imagery pendingSaccharomyces/Rice Ferment FiltrateHydrating
• Imagery pendingAureobasidium Pullulans FermentHydrating