Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Incompatibilities and failure points

与阳离子表活和阳离子调理剂共用易絮凝。与高浓度乙醇同用可能析出多糖类组分,呈雾状浑浊。与强氧化剂、高浓度过氧化物同用会使颜色迅速加深。与多价金属离子共存会异常增稠或起浑。pH 低于 3.5 长期储存会加速褐变并放大酵母味。含还原糖较高的批次与含氨基、胺基的原料(部分氨基酸衍生物、乙醇胺类中和剂)在高温下更容易走褐变路线,成品逐月发黄。

Stability

这一支最需要单独提醒的是来料一致性:不同供应商的固含可能相差数倍,颜色深浅与气味强度也完全不同,同一个 INCI 名底下可能是浓度差异很大的东西,具体数值以来料 COA 与干物质实测为准,直接按百分比换料会导致气味、颜色、粘度同时改变。

Processing notes

建议 45℃ 以下加入,能后加就后加。换供应商或换批次之前,先索取固含或干物质含量、颜色范围与气味描述,并做一次并行小试(同配方两批料体对照放置四周),不要只看 COA 合格就直接上线。若两家固含相差一倍,不能按等体积替换,应按固含折算后再重新调香、调色并复测粘度。大罐生产先做预混稀释再入罐,避免局部浓度过高结团。含此料的配方灌装前应过滤,个别批次带入的细微悬浮物在成品里很容易被客户误判为「长东西」。

What it addresses

酿酒酵母发酵后过滤得到的水相滤液,主要含氨基酸、多肽片段、B 族维生素类小分子和寡糖。它属于发酵产品线里最基础的一类水相料,在配方中承担水相保湿与肤感柔润的角色,也常作为发酵概念的底料与其它发酵料复配。

Market direction

中国 / CN

常用发酵类原料,按已使用原料目录与备案要求核对来源与规格;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

常规使用方向,需完成安全评估与成分申报,微生物来源须提供菌株与工艺说明;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

常规使用方向,按目标市场规则复核标签与宣称边界;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩及东南亚普遍使用,按各自原料目录与进口要求逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

03464

Standard Chinese name

酵母菌发酵产物滤液

Max historical use, rinse-off

95.074%

Max historical use, leave-on

35.82%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (03464)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (59528) · 功能 HUMECTANT

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

酵母滤液,酿酒酵母发酵滤液,Saccharomyces cerevisiae

CAS

无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)

Suits formats

Toner · Essence · Serum · Lotion · Cream · Sheet mask

Halal and vegan

微生物发酵来源,培养基不含动物源时通常可做 vegan,须供应商出具培养基声明;清真需供应商出具证明,并确认工艺中的乙醇使用情况。

Cost band

Value

Evidence strength

高

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