Pogostemon Cablin Oil

Incompatibilities and failure points

1)颜色是头号问题:原油呈深琥珀到棕色,加到 0.1% 以上就会把白色乳霜带成米灰或浅褐调,做纯白膏体的客户会直接判色差不良。配色必须按最终加量在打样阶段确认,不能用低浓度小样去推断量产颜色。2)与二氧化钛、氧化锌等白色粉体同处方:粉体盖不住这层灰调,反而会让色调看起来更脏。3)与含铁离子的体系或铁质设备接触:倍半萜氧化产物与铁络合,颜色进一步加深。4)与柑橘类精油共用:广藿香会压住柑橘头香,清爽定位的产品要控在 0.03% 以下。5)与阳离子调理体系(护发)无化学冲突,但会显著提高发上残留香强度,留香设计要重算。6)气味残留极强,是车间、储罐与管路串味的高风险原料。

Stability

相对稳定,不易酸败,长期存放反而会陈化使香气更圆润,这是它区别于柑橘类精油的重要特点。主要变化是颜色随时间与光照加深,以及低温下黏度上升、取料困难。pH 4.0 到 8.0 内香气基本稳定,对碱性体系耐受性好于酯类为主的花油。建议避光常温保存,不需要冷藏,但仍要满瓶避免长期敞口。浅色配方要把颜色随时间加深这件事纳入稳定性考核项,而不是只看分层与 pH。

Processing notes

挥发性低,可在 40 到 45℃ 以下加入,损失不大,但仍不要走全程加热段。黏度大,冬季会变稠,取料前建议 35 到 40℃ 温和水浴整桶回温混匀,不要局部高温或明火加热。计量器具、储罐、软管专用,含广藿香的批次建议排在当日最后,生产完必须彻底清线,残留会在下一批浅香型产品里被立刻闻出来。放大生产的坑:小样用移液枪加、量产用泵送,管路残留会让实际加量高于设计值,颜色与香气一起偏——要按管路容积做补偿或改用称重投料。

What it addresses

主要成分是广藿香醇与多种倍半萜,分子量大、挥发慢,是东方调与中式草本香型的定香骨架,能把上层的柑橘与花香拖住,延长整体留香。颜色深、气味强,自身带明显的木土调性格,加量稍高就会主导整支产品的香气结构。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为香料类原料常规使用,须确认在国内已使用原料目录范围内并按备案要求填报,以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

常规使用;所含致敏性香料组分达标示门槛时须单独列出,按当前清单复核,以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

作为化妆品香料原料常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

东南亚为主要产地,区域内常规使用;部分市场对香料致敏组分标示另有要求,按目标国规则复核,以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

02634

Standard Chinese name

广藿香（POGOSTEMON CABLIN）油

Max historical use, leave-on

30%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (02634)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (100009) · 功能 FRAGRANCE

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

广藿香精油,藿香油,Patchouli Oil,Pogostemon cablin

CAS

8014-09-3(广藿香油通用登记号;另见 84238-39-1,以供应商 COA 批次文件为准)

Suits formats

Cream · Balm · Face oil · Lotion · Stick

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

高

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