Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Incompatibilities and failure points

1)与洋甘菊提取物混谈是这一支最常见的失误:客户拿着写有洋甘菊 2% 的方案过来,若照搬到花油上就是 20 到 200 倍过量,香型完全崩掉、刺激与成本同时失控。写方案与报价必须把 INCI 写全到部位与形态。2)香气扩散性强,与柑橘调、皂感香精同用会直接盖过对方,整支产品的香型设计会被它一家改写。3)与高浓度阴离子表活的洁面、沐浴体系:当归酸酯在偏碱条件下水解,三个月后甜果香转酸味。4)与含醛香料共存:甜果调变成药感,是很多打样通过、量产被否的原因。5)与德国洋甘菊油(Chamomilla Recutita 油,含母菊天蓝烃、呈蓝色)混用:颜色会明显偏蓝绿,浅色配方必须重新配色,两者不能互相替代。

Stability

见光变深、遇氧香气变钝;当归酸酯类在偏碱与高温下水解,pH 超过 7.5 长期存放香气衰减明显。防护做法:棕瓶避光、25℃ 以下、满瓶保存,料体内配生育酚;成品优先不透明包材。产地与年份造成的香气差异明显,打样与量产尽量用同一批原料,换批必须做香气比对并留标样。高浓度长期与 PE 内壁接触会被吸附而使香气衰减,长期存放优先玻璃或带涂层内衬的包材。

Processing notes

用量极小,必须先配成 1% 到 10% 母液再投料,称重计量,不用体积估量。降温至 40℃ 以下加入。这一支的产地与年份差异大,打样与量产要用同批或经过香气比对的批次,并保留标样。计量器具与管路专用,残留会把下一批次带成甜果调,共线必须彻底清线。高浓度与聚乙烯部件长期接触会有香气吸附,内衬与滴管材质要做相容性试验。

What it addresses

主要成分是当归酸酯类(异丁基当归酸酯等),香气偏甜果苹果调、扩散性极强,常用于放松与舒缓的香气方向。必须注意它与常见的洋甘菊提取物(Chamomilla Recutita 花提取物)不是同一原料:后者是水或醇提物,按提取物用量投料,两者的常用加量差 10 到 100 倍。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为香料类原料常规使用,须确认在国内已使用原料目录范围内并按备案要求填报;舒缓、镇静类表述涉及功效宣称管理,按当前规则评估,以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

常规使用;所含致敏性香料组分达标示门槛时须单独列出,按当前清单复核,以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

作为化妆品香料原料常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩及东南亚主要市场常规使用,部分市场对香料致敏组分标示另有要求,按目标国规则复核,以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

01124

Standard Chinese name

白花春黄菊（ANTHEMIS NOBILIS）花油

Max historical use, leave-on

9.1%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (01124)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (74310) · 功能 FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING, PERFUMING

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

罗马洋甘菊精油,果香菊油,Roman Chamomile Oil,Anthemis nobilis,Chamaemelum nobile

CAS

8015-92-7(罗马洋甘菊油通用登记号;另见 84649-86-5,以供应商 COA 批次文件为准)

Suits formats

Serum · Cream · Lotion · Face oil · Sheet mask

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。稀释规格的载体要单独确认。

Cost band

Premium

Evidence strength

中

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