Hydrating · Barrier repair · Soothing
Carrageenan
Carrageenan
角叉菜胶
- INCI
- Carrageenan
- Family
- 多糖
- Typical use level
- 0.1–1.5%
- pH window
- 5.0–9.0(酸性条件下会逐步降解)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
离子敏感是最典型的翻车点。钾离子(氯化钾、山梨酸钾、含钾的调 pH 剂)会让 kappa 型迅速成刚性凝胶、结块并脱水收缩析水;钙离子(硬水、氯化钙、乳酸钙、含矿物的植提)会让 iota 型过度成胶。因此生产用水的硬度直接决定成品质地,不同车间用不同水源就会出批次差。酸性条件(pH 低于 4.5)下硫酸酯键水解,黏度与凝胶强度随存放时间不可逆下降,酸性加高温同时存在最伤。阴离子性质使其与阳离子聚合物、阳离子表活絮凝沉淀。与高浓度乙醇不相容会析出。与刺槐豆胶、魔芋胶存在强协同,叠加后凝胶强度远超预期。
Stability
干粉稳定,溶液稳定性由 pH 主导:中性至微碱最稳,pH 低于 4 存放会持续降解,货架末期黏度显著衰减,酸性配方要么换胶,要么接受衰减并做完整加速考察。溶解需要 75–80 ℃,单纯高温可耐受,但酸性条件下加热会成倍加速降解。成胶后的体系在储运震动与温度波动下可能脱水收缩析水,通常靠调整型号比例或复配少量其它胶抑制。冻融性差,凝胶结构一旦破坏不可恢复。微生物易感,需要完整防腐体系与来料菌数控制。
Processing notes
必须在 75–80 ℃ 充分搅拌溶解至溶液透明,溶解不完全会在冷却后出现颗粒或局部胶块,后期无法补救。凝胶是在冷却过程中形成的,降温速率与是否静置直接决定最终质地,大锅慢冷与小样快冷手感不同,放大时要把降温曲线固定下来写进工艺卡。干粉与糖、甘油或其它粉体预混后撒入,不可直接倒进热水。生产用水必须统一为纯化水并监测电导率。含钾、钙的原料(氯化钾、山梨酸钾、乳酸钙、含矿物植提)一律安排在胶完全溶解并降温后再慢加分散。柠檬酸、乳酸等调 pH 放在最后、温度降到 45 ℃ 以下再做。凝胶形成后避免高剪切。面膜液灌装必须在凝胶点以上的温度完成,否则拉丝挂壁、装量不准。
What it addresses
红藻来源的硫酸化半乳聚糖,按硫酸基位置与数量分为三型:kappa 型遇钾离子形成脆硬凝胶,iota 型遇钙离子形成弹性触变凝胶,lambda 型不成胶只增稠。配方中用于构建面膜液与凝胶的骨架结构、悬浮粉体与油滴,并提供水润顺滑的铺展。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用,由供应商提供规格与安全评估资料,以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用,按目标市场规则复核,以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Not listed
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (88730)
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 卡拉胶,鹿角菜胶,角叉菜提取物,爱尔兰苔,Chondrus crispus,Irish Moss,kappa 卡拉胶,iota 卡拉胶,lambda 卡拉胶
- CAS
- 9000-07-1
- Suits formats
- Sheet mask · Gel · Essence · Lotion · Cream · Toner
- Halal and vegan
- 红藻来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明并确认加工助剂。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.