Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Incompatibilities and failure points

1)最大的冲突不在化学而在概念:玫瑰纯露(Rosa Damascena Flower Water)与玫瑰花油价格差两三个数量级,客户常拿纯露的预算谈精油,或者希望成分表里出现 Flower Oil 却只肯付纯露的钱。报价前必须把 INCI 写到部位与形态,并在报价单上分行列示。2)掺假普遍:常见以合成香叶醇/香茅醇、天竺葵油、棕榈玫瑰(Cymbopogon martinii)勾兑,仅凭气味无法判定,须 GC-MS 指纹图谱加产地与蒸馏批次证明。3)与高 pH 皂基或含醛香料共处:醇类主组分与醛发生缩合,香气发闷发苦。4)与含铁的植提或矿物色素:微量酚类与铁离子络合,浅色乳霜出现灰粉调。5)与高浓度乙醇的水醇体系:澄清度好,但乙醇纯度不足(含醛类杂质)会让玫瑰香在两个月内明显衰减。

Stability

香气组分对氧与光敏感,高温下 β-突厥酮等微量组分损失最快,香型会变平变薄。一个必须写进来料标准的常识:玫瑰花油在低温下会因所含蜡质(硬脂脑)析出而凝固变浑,回温摇匀即恢复,这是正常现象,不写清楚仓库会当作变质退货。防护做法:2–20℃ 避光、满瓶充氮保存,开封后尽快分装小瓶使用;成品避免长期强光货架。来料按批索取 GC-MS 图谱、产地与蒸馏批次。

Processing notes

加量极低,必须先做成 1% 或 10% 的载体预混母液(常用辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯或香精基)再按母液投料;直接称量克级原油会造成批次间香型明显差异。降温到 40℃ 以下、乳化完成后加入。计量器具专用,不与其它香型共用,残留会串味。成本沟通上有个实用做法:很多客户要的是标签上出现玫瑰花油的效果,可以用极低量精油加纯露加可控香精的组合达成目标香型与成本,前提是标签逐项如实标注——这件事应该在报价环节主动说,而不是等客户看到 BOM。高价原料建议按小包装采购,减少开封后氧化与挥发损耗。

What it addresses

由大马士革玫瑰花蒸馏所得,主要含香茅醇、香叶醇、橙花醇与微量 β-突厥酮,香气强度极高,通常以万分之几的加量就决定整支产品的香型。在配方中是感官与价值感组分,不承担功能主体角色。它与玫瑰纯露、玫瑰净油是三种不同原料,不能互换。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为香料类原料常规使用,须确认在国内已使用原料目录范围内并按备案要求填报;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

常规使用;所含致敏性香料组分达标示门槛时须单独列出,由于加量极低通常压力较小,仍按当前清单复核,以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

作为化妆品香料原料常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩及中东市场接受度高,常规使用;部分市场对香料致敏组分标示另有要求,按目标国规则复核,以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

06728

Standard Chinese name

突厥蔷薇（ROSA DAMASCENA）花油

Max historical use, leave-on

38.274%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (06728)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (79760) · 功能 FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING · 限制 III/366

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

玫瑰精油,奥图玫瑰,保加利亚玫瑰油,Rose Otto,Rosa damascena

CAS

8007-01-0(玫瑰油通用登记号;另见 90106-38-0,以供应商 COA 批次文件为准)

Suits formats

Serum · Essence · Cream · Face oil · Balm

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。中东线客户对玫瑰油的来源文件要求普遍较严,建议一并准备产地与蒸馏说明。

Cost band

Premium

Evidence strength

高

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