Oil control · Conditioning

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

茶树(叶)油

INCI: Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Family: 精油
Typical use level: 驻留型 0.1–1%,冲洗型可到 2%;局部点涂型另行评估
pH window: 4.5–7.0(本身不参与调 pH;强酸体系下萜烯类更易异构与氧化)

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Incompatibilities and failure points

1)与过氧化苯甲酰同处方:氧化性组分会加速萜品烯-4-醇与 γ-萜品烯氧化,生成过氧化物与对伞花烃,气味转酸、刺激性上升。2)与铁、铜离子(硬水、矿物色素、部分植提带入)接触:催化萜烯自氧化,料体变黄并生成刺激性更强的氧化产物,必须配螯合剂。3)与不饱和植物油(葵花油、亚麻籽油)同处高油相:互相促氧化,哈败味会被茶树的药感香放大。4)水基体系里所需的非离子增溶剂(PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油等)在高浓度阳离子聚合物体系中会拉低黏度并导致精油相分离,瓶口出现油圈。5)与高浓度乙醇的水醇体系:初期澄清,但乙醇挥发后精油在瓶口析出油膜,喷头容易堵。6)与高浓度 AHA/BHA 叠加:属刺激性叠加而非化学不相容,用于敏感或屏障受损人群时须做人体耐受,报价阶段要向品牌方提示。

Stability

关键失效路径是自氧化:萜烯类遇氧、光、热生成过氧化物与对伞花烃,氧化后的茶树油刺激与致敏风险明显高于新鲜油,这是行业公认风险点。外观上表现为由无色淡黄转深黄,气味由清新药草转松节油或酸败味,过氧化值上升。防护做法:原料桶充氮、满桶存放、棕色避光瓶、25℃ 以下仓储;料体内配 0.05–0.2% 生育酚或迷迭香提取物做油相抗氧,配 0.05–0.1% 螯合剂锁金属离子;成品优先不透明或深色包材,避免透明泵瓶长期货架照射。来料建议按批索取过氧化值与萜品烯-4-醇含量,长期库存要复检。

Processing notes

归油相但不跟油相一起加热:油相 75–80℃ 乳化完成后降温到 40℃ 以下再加,避免挥发损失与香气走样。水基体系(爽肤水、啫喱)必须先增溶,常用 PEG-40 氢化蓖麻油或聚山梨醇酯-20,精油与增溶剂常见 1:3–1:5 先预混成透明相,再在搅拌下缓慢加入水相;顺序反了会立刻出现油珠与乳光。放大生产的坑:中试澄清、量产浑浊多半是水相温度偏低使增溶体系浊点变化,量产必须控水相温度;敞口长时间搅拌损耗大,建议密闭低速短时。萜烯类会溶胀部分塑料,储罐与管路优先不锈钢,软管选氟橡胶或三元乙丙,不用普通丁腈;PS、部分 PET 与普通 PP 泵头长期接触可能应力开裂或吸香,必须做成品与包材相容性试验。茶树气味强,与花香型产品共线要排产隔离并彻底清线。

What it addresses

主成分为萜品烯-4-醇与 γ-萜品烯,亲油、能与皮脂互溶,常用在油性与粉刺倾向肌肤的清洁与局部护理方向。在配方里同时承担草本药感香气与油相功能组分两个角色,通常不作唯一功能主体,而与水杨酸、锌盐或控油粉体组合使用。

Market direction

中国 / CN: 作为香料/精油类原料常规使用,须确认在国内已使用原料目录范围内并按备案资料要求填报;抗菌、消炎方向的表述涉及功效宣称与品类边界,须按当前规则评估,以最新官方文本为准。
欧盟 / EU: 常规使用;安全评估中通常关注氧化产物与过氧化值,所含致敏性香料组分达到标示门槛时需在成分表单独列出,按当前致敏物清单复核,以最新官方文本为准。
美国 / US: 作为化妆品原料常规使用;若同时以祛痘方向宣传,可能进入非处方药路径,须由法规评估后确定标签与品类,以最新官方文本为准。
亚太 / APAC: 日韩及东南亚主要市场常规使用,部分市场对精油总量与致敏组分标示另有要求,按目标国规则逐一复核,以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.: 02978
Standard Chinese name: 互生叶白千层（MELALEUCA ALTERNIFOLIA）叶油
Max historical use, rinse-off: 8.3%
Max historical use, leave-on: 0.8%
Source: 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021): Listed (02978)
印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022): Not listed
中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted: Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database: Listed (102660) · 功能 ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN PROTECTING, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS
欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI: Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes: Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives: Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist: Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables: Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics: Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists: Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
: Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name: 茶树精油,互叶白千层油,澳洲茶树油,Tea Tree Oil,Melaleuca alternifolia
CAS: 68647-73-4(茶树油通用登记号;以供应商 COA 批次文件为准)
Suits formats: Gel · Serum · Cream · Lotion · Toner · Cleanser · Stick
Halal and vegan: 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。注意稀释规格常以乙醇或植物油作载体,清真与无醇线要先确认载体。
Cost band: Mid
Evidence strength: 高

Others in this family

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Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.

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