dermaquest Essential Moisturizer

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Hexyl Laurate
3. Butylene Glycol
4. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
5. Polysorbate 60
6. Glycerin
7. Stearic Acid
8. Stearyl Alcohol
9. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
10. Sorbitan Stearate
11. Hydrolyzed Elastin
12. Isopropyl Isostearate
13. Cetearyl Alcohol
14. Nylon-12
15. Sodium Hyaluronate
16. PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
17. Squalane
18. Glyceryl Stearate
19. PEG-100 Stearate
20. Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
21. Dimethicone
22. C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester
23. Sodium PCA
24. Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate
25. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
26. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
27. Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
28. Linoleic Acid
29. Glycine Soja Sterols
30. Phospholipids
31. Plankton Extract
32. Lecithin
33. Micrococcus Lysate
34. Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract
35. Polysorbate 20
36. Ergothioneine
37. Centella Asiatica Extract
38. Darutoside
39. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
40. Tocopheryl Acetate
41. Ethoxydiglycol
42. Retinyl Palmitate
43. Ubiquinone
44. Yeast Polysaccharides
45. Tocopherol
46. Ascorbyl Palmitate
47. Ascorbic Acid
48. Citric Acid
49. PEG-8
50. Sodium Polyacrylate
51. Carbomer
52. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
53. Phenoxyethanol
54. Caprylyl Glycol
55. Ethylhexylglycerin
56. Hexylene Glycol
57. Disodium EDTA
58. Fragrance
59. Linalool
60. Benzyl Salicylate
61. Benzyl Alcohol
62. Geraniol

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains animal-derivedContains siliconesContains fragranceContains EU-26 allergensContains alcohol

Formulation view Light moisturizer with light esters, dimethicone, hydrolyzed elastin, and peptides. Includes centella for soothing. Suited for oily and combination skin. Monitor ester oxidation stability and emulsification system.

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Hexyl LaurateStearyl Alcohol

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polysorbate 60

DENATURANT

Glycerin

CLEANSING

Stearic Acid

Other ingredients

Cetyl EthylhexanoateSorbitan StearateHydrolyzed ElastinIsopropyl IsostearateCetearyl AlcoholNylon-12Sodium HyaluronatePPG-12/Smdi CopolymerSqualaneGlyceryl StearatePEG-100 StearateActinidia Chinensis Fruit ExtractDimethiconeC12-20 Acid PEG-8 EsterSodium PCATocopheryl Linoleate/OleateAloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractImperata Cylindrica Root ExtractLinoleic AcidGlycine Soja SterolsPhospholipidsPlankton ExtractLecithinMicrococcus LysateArabidopsis Thaliana ExtractPolysorbate 20ErgothioneineCentella Asiatica ExtractDarutosidePalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4Tocopheryl AcetateEthoxydiglycolRetinyl PalmitateUbiquinoneYeast PolysaccharidesTocopherolAscorbyl PalmitateAscorbic AcidCitric AcidPEG-8Sodium PolyacrylateCarbomerAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerPhenoxyethanolCaprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerinHexylene GlycolDisodium EDTAFragranceLinaloolBenzyl SalicylateBenzyl AlcoholGeraniol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Hexyl Laurate

Light ester emollient for silky feel; 1-5%, monitor oxidative stability

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

Stearyl Alcohol

Stearic alcohol; fatty alcohol for emulsion thickening/structure, often blended with soaps, moderate comedogenicity.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Synthetic oil providing slip; large molecule, low penetration, non-comedogenic, suitable for dry or rough skin.

Sorbitan Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier for O/W systems; hydrophobic, requires co-emulsifiers, inert at high purity

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrolyzed elastin, moisturizer; MW determines penetration, large MW surface conditioning.

Isopropyl Isostearate

Light emollient/ester for silky feel; stable, O/W compatible, potentially comedogenic at high levels.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Nylon-12

Not decoded yet

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Film former, hair styling, volatile, dry touch, non-comedogenic.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract

Botanical extract used as a skin conditioning agent

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester

Non-ionic emulsifier/solubilizer, C12-20 PEG-8 esters; mild but PEG stability needs watch.

Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.

Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate

Not decoded yet

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Natural humectant and soother with high water activity; requires preservative system, generally well-tolerated

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Imperata root extract; traditional TCM ingredient for skin conditioning. No public data on irritancy or comedogenicity.

Linoleic Acid

Essential fatty acid for barrier repair and hydration; oxidizes easily, high levels may be comedogenic

Glycine Soja Sterols

Plant-derived emollient and conditioner; high purity and suitable for sensitive skin

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Plankton Extract

Plankton extract for skin conditioning; low concentrations typical, ensure source purity to avoid microbial contamination.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Micrococcus Lysate

Micrococcus ferment lysate with peptides/metabolites; low concentration skin conditioner, ensure sterile process.

Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract

Arabidopsis thaliana extract, typically used as a plant-derived antioxidant or actives; research-grade ingredient; confirm stability in final formulation

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Ergothioneine

Ergothioneine, potent antioxidant; 0.01–0.1%, water-soluble, synergizes with Vit C/E.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Darutoside

Darutoside peptide; skin conditioning/firming agent; use per supplier specs at low ppm levels.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Signal peptide promoting collagen synthesis; effective at low concentration, needs penetration enhancers or encapsulation

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethoxydiglycol; high-perf solv/humectant; low irrit, EU limit 20%, watch total PEG load

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Ubiquinone

Coenzyme Q10 analog used as an antioxidant; prone to discoloration, needs protection from light and air.

Yeast Polysaccharides

Yeast-derived polysaccharides (e.g., β-glucan) for film formation, humectancy and barrier repair; well-suited to post-procedure care.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

PEG-8

Not decoded yet

Sodium Polyacrylate

Superabsorbent resin, <1%; gels with electrolytes, ionic strength control required.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Crosspolymer for thickening/film; needs neutralization to pH 7-8 to hydrate, check ion strength.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Hexylene Glycol

Polyol solvent and humectant with penetration enhancement; limit concentration to avoid irritation, no specific allergen tag

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Benzyl Salicylate

UV absorber/light stabilizer, restricted in EU; potential sensitizer, risk assessment needed.

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

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