Hydrating · Soothing · Barrier repair
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
库拉索芦荟叶汁
- INCI
- Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
- Family
- 多糖
- Typical use level
- 原汁型可占水相 5–50%;200:1 冻干粉复配常见 0.05–0.5%
- pH window
- 4.0–6.0
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1) 高含量原汁把大量电解质带进配方,卡波姆与丙烯酸酯类增稠剂的增稠效率明显下降甚至直接塌陷。做「高含量芦荟凝胶」时不要硬加卡波,应改用黄原胶、结冷胶或耐电解质型合成增稠剂,这是打样阶段最常见的返工原因。2) 与阳离子调理剂共用时,芦荟中的阴离子多糖与有机酸会造成浑浊或絮凝,透明发用体系尤其明显。3) 与乙醇超过约 20% 混合会析出多糖,出现雾浊与絮状物,含醇爽肤水需先做澄清度试验。4) 自带的钙镁离子会加速部分抗氧化剂与维生素 C 衍生物降解,需要额外补螯合剂。5) 与氯化钠增稠的表活体系叠加,会把总电解质推过临界点,黏度曲线突然反转塌黏。
Stability
多糖在高温下解聚,粘度与滑感随加热时间同步下降;70°C 以上长时间保温后,原汁那点粘度基本消失——这就是「打样时滑、放大后不滑」最常见的原因,不是配方错了,是受热历程变了。见光与遇氧会让浅黄汁液变黄变褐并带轻微异味,含蒽醌背景(芦荟苷、芦荟大黄素)的规格褐变更快,颜色深浅可以当作规格精制程度的粗略线索。微生物是这条原料最现实的风险:高糖高氨基酸,是极好的培养基,原汁的初始菌与防腐负担远高于粉复水;而且原汁本身常自带防腐剂(如苯氧乙醇、山梨酸钾),这部分必须计入配方总防腐量并在成分表体现,漏算既是稳定性问题也是标签问题。原汁偏酸且批间波动,含它的配方每批都要复测 pH。
Processing notes
1) 客户说「要 50% 芦荟」时,第一件事是问清他要的是标签上 Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice 的位次靠前,还是要真实的多糖含量。用 200:1 粉复配的还原汁在标签上同样成立,但粘度、气味、微生物负担与成本完全不同,这一层不在报价阶段说清,就是后期扯皮的源头。2) 原汁属后加料,降温至 40°C 以下加入,不要与油相一起高温乳化;若工艺上必须前加,提前告知客户会损失粘度与感官。3) 粉料先用少量常温水或甘油润湿打浆,再入主锅;直接撒粉必结团,团块被过滤网截留后实际加量低于配方,批间差异就是这么来的。4) 微生物控制要当成硬要求:原汁开桶后极易染菌,建议整桶用完不隔夜并留开桶记录;储罐与管道必须 CIP,冲一冲不算清洗。5) 防腐挑战必须用含芦荟的实际配方单独做,不能套用无芦荟版本的数据;高含量版本通常需要上调防腐或补螯合剂与多元醇辅助。6) 若客户对蒽醌背景有要求(部分品牌方会明确提低蒽醌规格),在采购规格书里写明检测项、方法与限值,并要求逐批 COA,不接受口头承诺。7) 高含量原汁体系粘度低、易起泡,灌装前静置消泡,否则装量不齐被判不合格。
What it addresses
主体是水,加上多糖(以乙酰化甘露聚糖为代表)、氨基酸、有机酸与少量矿物质。在配方里主要提供水相的亲肤感与轻微成膜保湿方向,常作为水相的一部分替代纯水,用来支撑「高含量芦荟」的产品叙事。真正决定表现的是规格而不是名字:原汁(1x)、浓缩液(10x/40x)与冻干粉复水三种形态,在固含量、粘度、气味、微生物背景与蒽醌背景上完全不同。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用方向;需确认原料目录收录与原料安全信息码,浓缩液与粉体规格的 INCI 标示要与实际形态一致;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用方向;蒽醌类背景相关的原料规格与安全评估资料需齐备;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用方向;「纯芦荟」「99% 芦荟」类文案必须与实际配方与投料一致,否则构成误导风险;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用方向;部分市场对植物原汁的进口检疫与微生物指标有额外要求;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 04173
- Standard Chinese name
- 库拉索芦荟（ALOE BARBADENSIS）叶汁
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 59.82%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (04173)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (54347) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 库拉索芦荟,芦荟原汁,芦荟叶汁,Aloe barbadensis,Aloe vera,Aloe Vera Leaf Juice
- CAS
- 85507-69-3(以供应商 COA 复核)
- Suits formats
- Gel · Toner · Essence · Lotion · Cream · Sheet mask · Serum
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;需确认原汁自带的防腐剂与澄清助剂来源,清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.