dermaquest Sensitized Delicate Moisturizer

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
3. Cetearyl Alcohol
4. PEG-100 Stearate
5. Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
6. Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
7. Ceteareth-20
8. Glyceryl Stearate
9. Dimethicone
10. Zinc Oxide
11. PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
12. Sorbitan Stearate
13. Sodium Hyaluronate
14. Corallina Officinalis Extract
15. Laminaria Digitata Extract
16. Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
17. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
18. Linoleic Acid
19. Glycine Soja Sterols
20. Phospholipids
21. Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
22. Lavandula Angustifolia Extract
23. Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
24. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
25. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
26. Glycerin
27. Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract
28. Centella Asiatica Extract
29. Taurine
30. Leucine
31. Valine
32. Tyrosine
33. Arginine
34. Lysine
35. Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
36. Butylene Glycol
37. Yeast Polysaccharides
38. Phenoxyethanol
39. Caprylyl Glycol
40. Ethylhexylglycerin
41. Hexylene Glycol
42. Glucosamine Hcl
43. Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
44. Urea
45. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
46. Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
47. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
48. Alteromonas Ferment Extract
49. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
50. Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
51. Disodium EDTA
52. Triethoxycaprylylsilane
53. Limonene

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains PEGContains siliconesContains animal-derivedContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance

Formulation view A nourishing cream rich in plant oils (jojoba, rosehip) and silicone occlusives. It builds repair via amino acids and seaweed extracts, with Zinc Oxide for physical protection. The emulsion system pairs PEG-100 stearate and cetyl alcohol. Ideal for dry, sensitive, or compromised skin. A key design feature is the bio-compatibility of multiple botanicals; however, the high oil load necessitates monitoring of PEG emulsifier aldehyde release risks and oxidative stability of the oil phase.

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilCetearyl AlcoholArgania Spinosa Kernel OilRosa Canina Fruit OilGlyceryl Stearate

SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

PEG-100 Stearate

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

Other ingredients

Ceteareth-20Zinc OxidePPG-12/Smdi CopolymerSorbitan StearateSodium HyaluronateCorallina Officinalis ExtractLaminaria Digitata ExtractArtemisia Vulgaris ExtractCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideLinoleic AcidGlycine Soja SterolsPhospholipidsMelia Azadirachta Leaf ExtractLavandula Angustifolia ExtractZingiber Officinale Root ExtractAloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractGlycerinSpiraea Ulmaria Flower ExtractCentella Asiatica ExtractTaurineLeucineValineTyrosineArginineLysineChlorella Vulgaris ExtractButylene GlycolYeast PolysaccharidesPhenoxyethanolCaprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerinHexylene GlycolGlucosamine HclSaccharomyces Cerevisiae ExtractUreaSodium Ascorbyl PhosphatePhyllanthus Emblica Fruit ExtractDipotassium GlycyrrhizateAlteromonas Ferment ExtractStearyl GlycyrrhetinateEucalyptus Globulus Leaf OilDisodium EDTATriethoxycaprylylsilaneLimonene

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Common in dry/damaged hair; superior penetration vs mineral oils, low comedogenic risk, poor oxidative stability.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Jojoba oil rich in unsaturated fats; good penetration, non-comedogenic, prone to oxidation requiring antioxidants

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Rosehip oil, rich in oleic/linoleic acids for emolliency/repair; prone to oxidation, needs protection

Ceteareth-20

Not decoded yet

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Zinc Oxide

Physical UV filter, 30% max in EU; oily at high levels, pair with oils for feel.

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Film former, hair styling, volatile, dry touch, non-comedogenic.

Sorbitan Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier for O/W systems; hydrophobic, requires co-emulsifiers, inert at high purity

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Corallina extract, polysaccharide-rich humectant/film former; algal source, batch variation.

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Seaweed extract for skin protection; moderate concentration to avoid osmotic irritation.

Artemisia Vulgaris Extract

Herbal extract rich in volatile essential oils for skin conditioning; check sensitization potential at high levels

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Linoleic Acid

Essential fatty acid for barrier repair and hydration; oxidizes easily, high levels may be comedogenic

Glycine Soja Sterols

Plant-derived emollient and conditioner; high purity and suitable for sensitive skin

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Plant extract, 0.1–1%; has antibacterial properties, allergy testing advised.

Lavandula Angustifolia Extract

Lavender extract; regulating and calming. Contains linalool and other allergens, use with caution for sensitive skin.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Root extract for scent and toning; may irritate compromised skin.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Aloe vera leaf extract for soothing and humectant; monitor polysaccharide level and endotoxins

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract

Plant extract for conditioning and soothing; no known allergen risk

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Taurine

Taurine; buffering and chelating. Common in shampoos and eye washes, water-soluble.

Leucine

Amino acid for antistatic and skin/hair conditioning; used at low concentrations.

Valine

Amino acid humectant, common in amino acid cleansers and sprays; mild, suitable for all skin types

Tyrosine

Amino acid involved in melanin synthesis; used for hair conditioning.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Lysine

Amino acid conditioner for anti-static hair care; low irritation at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Algae extract for skin conditioning and antioxidant; typically 1-5%, monitor stability

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Yeast Polysaccharides

Yeast-derived polysaccharides (e.g., β-glucan) for film formation, humectancy and barrier repair; well-suited to post-procedure care.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Hexylene Glycol

Polyol solvent and humectant with penetration enhancement; limit concentration to avoid irritation, no specific allergen tag

Glucosamine Hcl

Glucosamine hydrochloride for anti-static and hair conditioning; highly water-soluble, minimal skin irritation risk.

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Yeast extract rich in peptides and vitamins for antioxidant and skin conditioning; water-soluble, low irritation risk.

Urea

Potent humectant and keratolytic, >10% has exfoliating effect; stinging sensation at high levels, sensitive skin caution

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Amla fruit extract with antioxidants; humectant and conditioning, preserve freshness

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Ferment filtrate with peptides/polysaccharides; skin conditioning, 1–3% typical; check preservative system.

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Glycyrrhizin derivative offering core soothing and anti-inflammatory benefits, plus emollience for reactive skin

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Eucalyptus leaf oil, strong essential oil; high irritation, strictly limited usage

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Silane coupling agent at 0.1-0.5%; enhances inorganic filler adhesion, trace use, low toxicity, avoid direct contact with aqueous systems.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

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