Conditioning · Barrier repair · Hydrating
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
荷荷巴籽油
- INCI
- Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
- Family
- 植物油脂
- Typical use level
- 乳霜、乳液油相常见 2–20%；精华油、按摩油可做 50–100% 主体。以上为公开配方学常见添加区间，非法规限值。
- pH window
- 3.0–9.0(蜡酯键在常规化妆品 pH 下水解极慢,对体系 pH 不敏感;pH 9 以上的皂基体系仍会缓慢皂化,见配伍第③条)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
① 与高极性溶剂互溶性差：与丙二醇、丁二醇或乙醇含量超过约 20% 的体系直接混合会浑浊、静置分层，无水或高醇配方需要用中等极性酯（辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、C12-15 醇苯甲酸酯）搭桥。② 极性太低导致对粉体润湿性不足：单独用它研磨二氧化钛、氧化锌或色粉会磨不开、返粗出色点，必须先用极性酯预分散。③ 皂基清洁体系里做超脂时，蜡酯皂化速度慢于甘油三酯，加多了会拖慢皂化终点并留下持续油腻感。④ 在 O/W 里超过约 15% 时，油滴界面张力低、粘度低，普通非离子 HLB 体系容易膏体发软、离心后析油，需要提高增稠或改走液晶乳化路线。⑤ 不与过氧化苯甲酰等强氧化性原料同处一相。
Stability
① 氧化稳定性属常用天然油脂里最好的一档，但「稳定」不等于「免抗氧化」：未精制的金黄色批次带少量色素与游离脂肪酸，长期见光会缓慢褪色并伴随酸值上升，仍建议加 0.05–0.1% 混合生育酚，配迷迭香提取物（脱味级）与螯合剂效果更好。② 对热耐受好，常规 75–85 ℃ 乳化温度不会造成可察觉劣化，但不建议 90 ℃ 以上长时间保温。③ 低温（约 7–10 ℃ 起）会浑浊并析出蜡状絮凝，属可逆现象，回温到 25 ℃ 轻搅即恢复；问题在于冬季海运到货的客户会把絮状物直接判为变质，必须提前在 COA 备注和客服话术里写明，这是最常见的无谓客诉来源。④ 避免与铁、铜接触，管路与料桶避免使用裸露碳钢件。
Processing notes
① 归入油相，与乳化剂一同升温至 75–80 ℃ 即可，不需要更高温度。② 若配方含热敏活性或强调香气，可把约三分之一的荷荷巴留到降温至 45 ℃ 以下做「冷补油」，肤感更轻、香气释放更完整。③ 桶料冬季会半凝，投料前必须整桶在 30–40 ℃ 保温箱回温并充分搅匀；只取上层清液会造成批次间蜡酯组成漂移，是小作坊式操作最隐蔽的批差来源。④ 与无机防晒粉体或颜料共用时，先用极性酯预分散粉体，再兑入荷荷巴。⑤ 放大生产时粘度低、泵送顺畅，但灌装嘴挂丝滴液明显，高含量产品建议配防滴灌装嘴并适当降低灌装速度。
What it addresses
它在化学上不是甘油三酯，而是长链脂肪酸与长链脂肪醇缩合成的液态蜡酯，分子里只有一个酯键，双键位置远离酯键，且几乎不存在两个双键夹着一个亚甲基的结构。常规植物油之所以容易酸败，正是因为那个夹在双键之间的活泼氢容易被夺走并引发链式自氧化；荷荷巴缺这个位点，所以氧化诱导期远长于普通植物油。铺展后在角质层表面形成半封闭的蜡质薄膜，用于降低经皮水分散失、改善油相的顺滑与延展。极性低、组成接近皮脂，常用于要求「油感轻、不闷」的方向。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 作为植物油脂类原料在国内化妆品中常规使用，投产前按原料目录收录情况与备案资料要求复核；以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟属常规化妆品油脂原料，按成品安全评估与 INCI 标注执行；以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 美国按化妆品成分常规使用，重点复核标签写法与宣称口径；以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚普遍使用，各地按当地原料目录与标签规则复核；以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 03132
- Standard Chinese name
- 霍霍巴（SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS）籽油
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 100%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (03132)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (58617) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 霍霍巴油,油蜡树籽油,Jojoba Oil,Simmondsia chinensis
- CAS
- 61789-91-1
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Cream · Lotion · Face oil · Balm · Stick · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源，通常可做 vegan；清真需供应商出具证明，并覆盖加工助剂与储运容器的交叉污染说明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingSqualaneConditioning
- Imagery pendingArgania Spinosa Kernel OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingCamellia Oleifera Seed OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingRosa Canina Fruit OilConditioning
- Imagery pendingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit OilAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingButyrospermum Parkii ButterBarrier repair
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.