dermalogica Overnight Clearing Gel

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Salicylic Acid
2. Water
3. PEG-32
4. Butylene Glycol
5. PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer
6. Niacinamide
7. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
8. Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid
9. Zinc Gluconate
10. Zinc Acetate
11. Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract
12. Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/ Leaf/ Stem Extract
13. Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
14. Spiraea Ulmaria Extract
15. Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract
16. Crithmum Maritimum Extract
17. Yeast Extract
18. Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
19. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
20. Salvia Officinalis Oil
21. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
22. Geranium Maculatum Oil
23. Zingiber Officinale Root Oil
24. Cymbopogon Martini Oil
25. Cymbopogon Nardus Oil
26. Sodium Hyaluronate
27. Biotin
28. Panthenol
29. Caffeine
30. Camphor
31. 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid
32. Sebacic Acid
33. 1
34. 10-Decanediol
35. Oleanolic Acid
36. Xanthan Gum
37. Carbomer
38. Polysorbate 20
39. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
40. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate
41. Propylene Glycol
42. Glycerin
43. PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
44. Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
45. Caprylyl Glycol
46. Sodium Hydroxide
47. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
48. Chlorphenesin
49. Phenoxyethanol
50. Limonene
51. Linalool
52. Citronellol
53. Geraniol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains PEGContains mineral oil

Key ingredients

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC

Salicylic Acid

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

HUMECTANT

Butylene GlycolDipotassium Glycyrrhizate

BINDING

PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

ANTIOXIDANT

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

ANTIMICROBIAL

Zinc Gluconate

Other ingredients

PEG-32Zinc AcetateMahonia Aquifolium Root ExtractLavandula Angustifolia Flower/ Leaf/ Stem ExtractCamellia Oleifera Leaf ExtractSpiraea Ulmaria ExtractAesculus Hippocastanum Seed ExtractCrithmum Maritimum ExtractYeast ExtractMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf OilSalvia Officinalis OilCitrus Aurantium Dulcis OilGeranium Maculatum OilZingiber Officinale Root OilCymbopogon Martini OilCymbopogon Nardus OilSodium HyaluronateBiotinPanthenolCaffeineCamphor10-Hydroxydecanoic AcidSebacic Acid110-DecanediolOleanolic AcidXanthan GumCarbomerPolysorbate 20PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilAmmonium GlycyrrhizatePropylene GlycolGlycerinPEG-60 Almond GlyceridesHydrogenated Vegetable OilCaprylyl GlycolSodium HydroxideCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideChlorphenesinPhenoxyethanolLimoneneLinaloolCitronellolGeraniol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

PEG-32

Not decoded yet

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer

PVM/MA cross-polymer binder/thickener; matte film, useful in fixing products.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

Lipid peroxide scavenger, BHT alternative; low dose (0.1–0.25%), check photostability

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Zinc Acetate

Not decoded yet

Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract

Not decoded yet

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/ Leaf/ Stem Extract

Not decoded yet

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Camellia oleifera leaf extract containing tea polyphenols; acts as astringent and skin conditioner, monitor raw material consistency.

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Astringent/tonic plant extract for skin care; batch-to-batch variability, concentration control recommended

Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract

Horse chestnut seed extract for skin care; soothing, used in circulation products

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Sea fennel extract with ocean peptides for repair and antioxidant; water-soluble, used at low concentrations as active support.

Yeast Extract

Yeast extract for skin care and protection; common, low allergy risk

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Tea tree oil, antibacterial and sebum regulating; highly sensitizing at concentrate level, dilute; avoid on broken skin.

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Rosemary leaf oil for fragrance and conditioning; essential oil, allergen risk, limit usage

Salvia Officinalis Oil

Sage oil traditionally for tonic use; as essential oil, mind concentration and labeling.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Sweet orange oil; fragrance/antioxidant, contains furanocoumarins (photosensitizing), use at night or with SPF.

Geranium Maculatum Oil

Botanical essential oil for fragrance and toning; contains allergens, caution for sensitive skin.

Zingiber Officinale Root Oil

Ginger root oil for fragrance; contains gingerols, irritant, use very low concentration, avoid for sensitive skin.

Cymbopogon Martini Oil

Natural essential oil with distinct aroma; contains allergens requiring safety assessment.

Cymbopogon Nardus Oil

Essential oil for fragrance; high allergen risk, must be labeled, risk of dermatitis

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Biotin

Vitamin B7 nutrient claimant; topical effect limited, use at 1-20 ppm.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Caffeine

Active ingredient, 0.1–2%; promotes circulation, irritation risk at high concentration.

Camphor

Denaturant and fragrance with irritant and allergenic potential; strict concentration limits required for sensitive skin.

10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid

Long-chain hydroxy fatty acid for emollience and barrier support; control concentration to avoid clogging

Sebacic Acid

Sebacic acid; lipophilic buffering agent and skin conditioner; check dispersion in formulation.

1

Not decoded yet

10-Decanediol

Not decoded yet

Oleanolic Acid

Oleanolic acid derived from rose petals; terpene compound with floral scent used as a skin conditioning agent.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Solubilizer and emulsifier for oil-soluble ingredients; high concentrations may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive skin.

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate

Soothing anti-inflammatory and emulsifier; derived from licorice, minor allergen risk

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Gentle almond-based PEG emulsifier; good for sensitive skin, monitor PEG hydrolysis

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Occlusive emollient for smooth feel; high levels may be comedogenic, use caution for acne-prone skin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Chlorphenesin

Phenolic antimicrobial; strict EU limits apply, potential allergen, careful dosing required for leave-on products.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Citronellol

Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

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