chemist-confessions Chemist Confessions Mr. Reliable
chemist-confessions Chemist Confessions Mr. Reliable lists 39 ingredients on its label, 35 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Water
- Glycerin
- Ethyl Macadamiate
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Isononyl Isononanoate
- Cetearyl Olivate
- Sorbitan Olivate
- Panthenol
- Sodium Pca
- Behenyl Alcohol
- Dipropylene Glycol
- Boswellia Serrata Gum
- Bisabolol
- Jojoba Esters
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
- Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
- Polyglycerin-3
- Ceramide Np
- Ceramide Ap
- Ceramide Eop
- Phytosphingosine
- Cholesterol
- Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
- Carbomer
- Xanthan Gum
- Lecithin
- Sclerotium Gum
- Pullulan
- Sodium Hyaluronate
- Dimethicone
- Dimethiconol
- Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- C12-14 Pareth-12
- Propanediol
- 1,2-Hexanediol
- Caprylhydroxamic Acid
- Disodium Edta
- Amyris Balsamifera Oil
- Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Highlights
Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains siliconesContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oilsContains fragrance
Formulation view Water-in-oil emulsion enriched with biomimetic lipids (ceramides, phytosphingosine) and panthenol to repair barrier. Lightweight esters ensure a refreshing feel. Contains essential oils; potential allergens. Suited for damaged barriers. Factory note: Complex lipid system demands precise emulsification to ensure even ceramide distribution.
Key ingredients
- ANTIPLAQUE
- Water
- DENATURANT
- Glycerin
- SKIN CONDITIONING
- Ethyl Macadamiate
- FRAGRANCE
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- ANTISTATIC
- Isononyl IsononanoatePanthenol
- SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- Cetearyl Olivate
- SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING
- Sorbitan Olivate
Other ingredients
Sodium PcaBehenyl AlcoholDipropylene GlycolBoswellia Serrata GumBisabololJojoba EstersHelianthus Annuus Seed WaxAcacia Decurrens Flower WaxPolyglycerin-3Ceramide NpCeramide ApCeramide EopPhytosphingosineCholesterolSodium Lauroyl LactylateCarbomerXanthan GumLecithinSclerotium GumPullulanSodium HyaluronateDimethiconeDimethiconolDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerC12-14 Pareth-12Propanediol1,2-HexanediolCaprylhydroxamic AcidDisodium EdtaAmyris Balsamifera OilPelargonium Graveolens Oil
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water | ANTIPLAQUE, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glycerin | DENATURANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, ORAL CARE, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ethyl Macadamiate | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 1 | Green |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Isononyl Isononanoate | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Cetearyl Olivate | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SLIP MODIFIER | 0 · 1 | Green |
| Sorbitan Olivate | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING | 0 · – | Green |
| Panthenol | ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Pca | ANTISTATIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | – · 0 | Green |
| Behenyl Alcohol | BINDING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, EMULSION STABILISING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dipropylene Glycol | FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Boswellia Serrata Gum | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Bisabolol | FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOOTHING | 0 · – | Green |
| Jojoba Esters | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, MOISTURISING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SOOTHING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 2 | Green |
| Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · – | Green |
| Polyglycerin-3 | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Ceramide Np | HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ceramide Ap | HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Ceramide Eop | HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Phytosphingosine | HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Cholesterol | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SKIN CONDITIONING, LIGHT STABILIZER, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Carbomer | EMULSION STABILISING, GEL FORMING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Xanthan Gum | BINDING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, GEL FORMING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Lecithin | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sclerotium Gum | EMULSION STABILISING, SKIN CONDITIONING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Pullulan | BINDING, FILM FORMING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dimethicone | ANTIFOAMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Dimethiconol | ANTIFOAMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, MOISTURISING | 0 · 3 | Green |
| Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer | SKIN CONDITIONING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| C12-14 Pareth-12 | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Propanediol | SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| 1,2-Hexanediol | SKIN CONDITIONING, SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Caprylhydroxamic Acid | CHELATING | 0 · – | Green |
| Disodium Edta | CHELATING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Amyris Balsamifera Oil | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Pelargonium Graveolens Oil | FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING · 限制 III/364 | 1 · – | Green |
Ingredients explained
- Water
- Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth
- Glycerin
- Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives
- Ethyl Macadamiate
- Ethyl ester of macadamia oleic acid; lightweight skin conditioning; low comedogenicity
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin
- Isononyl Isononanoate
- Light, low-viscosity ester emollient; excellent spreadability, good for gels and light lotions
- Cetearyl Olivate
- Natural emulsifier pairing with glucosides; skin-like feel, biodegradable, prone to oxidation requiring light protection
- Sorbitan Olivate
- O/W emulsifier, HLB ~15, requires ionic co-surfactant, potential sensitizer.
- Panthenol
- Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery
- Sodium Pca
- Sodium PCA, NMF component, 1-10% humectant; salty/tacky at high levels.
- Behenyl Alcohol
- Fat alcohol emulsifier/thickener at 1-3%; low comedogenic risk, check solubility in strong acid/base systems, add antioxidants.
- Dipropylene Glycol
- Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG
- Boswellia Serrata Gum
- Not decoded yet
- Bisabolol
- Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.
- Jojoba Esters
- Jojoba esters, light emollient ester, low comedogenic; sebum-like, excellent spreadability.
- Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
- Sunflower seed wax for thickness/filming; waxy texture, potential comedogenic at high levels.
- Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
- Plant wax for emollience and film formation; blend with other waxes for melting point.
- Polyglycerin-3
- Not decoded yet
- Ceramide Np
- Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.
- Ceramide Ap
- Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids
- Ceramide Eop
- Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.
- Phytosphingosine
- Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.
- Cholesterol
- Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.
- Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
- Mild emulsifier at 1–5%; suitable for sensitive skin, mind cationic surfactant compatibility
- Carbomer
- Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility
- Xanthan Gum
- Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration
- Lecithin
- Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.
- Sclerotium Gum
- Non-ionic gum for gels; neutral pH, requires dissolution via heating or fine milling
- Pullulan
- Microbial polysaccharide for film forming and thickening; water-soluble film former used in capsules or moisturizing films.
- Sodium Hyaluronate
- Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture
- Dimethicone
- Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin
- Dimethiconol
- Dimethiconol; silicone emollient providing silky feel and reducing friction; moderate comedogenicity, avoid excess.
- Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
- Crosslinked silicone thickener at 0.5-2%; silky/matte feel, non-comedogenic, partial oil phase incompatibility, use co-solvent/pre-emulsification.
- C12-14 Pareth-12
- Not decoded yet
- Propanediol
- Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative
- 1,2-Hexanediol
- Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives
- Caprylhydroxamic Acid
- Chelating agent to stabilize metal ions; often paired with antioxidants for system stability, used at low levels
- Disodium Edta
- Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy
- Amyris Balsamifera Oil
- Not decoded yet
- Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
- Pelargonium graveolens oil containing citronellol and geraniol; used as perfuming agent, contains labeled allergens requiring compliance checks.
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-19. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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