dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
3. Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
4. Butylene Glycol
5. Stearic Acid
6. Peg-8
7. Lactamide Mea
8. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
9. Dimethicone
10. Cetearyl Alcohol
11. Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract
12. Tocopheryl Acetate
13. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
14. Allantoin
15. Panthenol
16. Glycolipids
17. Sodium Hyaluronate
18. Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer
19. Lecithin
20. Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
21. Malva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
22. Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
23. Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
24. Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
25. Arnica Montana Flower Extract
26. Parietaria Officinalis Extract
27. Silk Amino Acids
28. Retinyl Palmitate
29. Ascorbyl Palmitate
30. Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
31. Polysorbate 60
32. Polyquaternium-10
33. Cetyl Alcohol
34. Peg-100 Stearate
35. Glyceryl Stearate
36. Aminomethyl Propanol
37. Disodium Edta
38. Carbomer
39. Propylene Glycol
40. Chlorphenesin
41. Sodium Benzoate
42. Phenoxyethanol
43. Methylparaben
44. Butylparaben
45. Ethylparaben
46. Propylparaben
47. Isobutylparaben
48. Benzyl Benzoate
49. Benzyl Salicylate
50. Farnesol
51. Geraniol
52. Linalool
53. Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains animal-derivedContains PEGContains parabensContains essential oils

Formulation view A gentle system of water and light esters containing sunscreens that require layering. Combines sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and botanical soothing extracts, plus ceramide lipids for barrier repair. Polymer-thickened, suitable for post-sun sensitive skin care. Factory perspective notes that compatibility between UV filters and humectant actives requires rigorous testing.

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

CLEANSING

Stearic Acid

ANTISTATIC

Lactamide Mea

LIGHT STABILIZER

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

Other ingredients

Peg-8Cetearyl AlcoholCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower ExtractTocopheryl AcetateAloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceAllantoinPanthenolGlycolipidsSodium HyaluronatePalmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin CrosspolymerLecithinVitis Vinifera Seed ExtractMalva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem ExtractHedera Helix Leaf/Stem ExtractCucumis Sativus Fruit ExtractSambucus Nigra Flower ExtractArnica Montana Flower ExtractParietaria Officinalis ExtractSilk Amino AcidsRetinyl PalmitateAscorbyl PalmitateCamellia Oleifera Leaf ExtractPolysorbate 60Polyquaternium-10Cetyl AlcoholPeg-100 StearateGlyceryl StearateAminomethyl PropanolDisodium EdtaCarbomerPropylene GlycolChlorphenesinSodium BenzoatePhenoxyethanolMethylparabenButylparabenEthylparabenPropylparabenIsobutylparabenBenzyl BenzoateBenzyl SalicylateFarnesolGeraniolLinaloolCananga Odorata Flower Oil

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate

Ester emollient 1-5%; non-comedogenic, silky, compatible with sunscreens

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

Peg-8

Not decoded yet

Lactamide Mea

Amide humectant for skin/hair conditioning and antistatic use. Enhances humectancy with polyols; may cause mild irritation at high levels.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

UVA absorber used with other filters; poor water stability and photolability, requires light stabilizers, max concentration typically 10%.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Bitter orange flower extract for soothing and fresh feel; contains fragrance allergens, potential sensitizer

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Natural humectant and soother with high water activity; requires preservative system, generally well-tolerated

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Glycolipids

Cell membrane lipids mimicking skin barrier structure; used in repair formulations and biomimetic membranes

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer

Cationic modified starch for conditioning and suspension; balance charge at high use.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Grape seed extract with OPCs; potent antioxidant; used for skin protection and UV support; needs stabilizers.

Malva Sylvestris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Mallow extract for moisturizing and soothing conditioning. Contains mucilaginous polysaccharides, gentle and non-irritating; suitable for dry/sensitive skin.

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Ivy extract for soothing/astringent skin care; usually acts in synergy.

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Botanical extract for conditioning; note extraction impact on active retention

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract

Plant extract for soothing and toning; high levels of crude extracts may sensitize.

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Arnica extract; plant soothing/perfume alternative; low conc, potential sensitizer, patch test advised

Parietaria Officinalis Extract

Parietaria extract for soothing and emollient conditioning. Plant-derived, well-tolerated at standard levels; no known severe compatibility issues.

Silk Amino Acids

Silk amino acids for humectancy and hair/skin care; low molecular weight, easily absorbed

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Camellia oleifera leaf extract containing tea polyphenols; acts as astringent and skin conditioner, monitor raw material consistency.

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Polyquaternium-10

Cationic polymer for fabric or hair smoothness; generally low irritation but may conflict with other cationic actives

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Peg-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Aminomethyl Propanol

pH buffer at 0.1–1%; irritating at high levels, avoid direct mixing with strong acids/bases

Disodium Edta

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Chlorphenesin

Phenolic antimicrobial; strict EU limits apply, potential allergen, careful dosing required for leave-on products.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Methylparaben

Preservative, narrow spectrum; often combined, check allergen risk and regulatory limits.

Butylparaben

Butylparaben preservative; low concentrations; potential endocrine concerns, regulatory limits apply.

Ethylparaben

Paraben preservative; EU restricted, watch total load and sensitive skin reactions

Propylparaben

Medium-chain preservative; restricted use, pH-sensitive efficacy.

Isobutylparaben

Paraben preservative; used in combination, restricted usage

Benzyl Benzoate

Chelating agent for stability; restricted substance, not permitted as single component or in mixtures at ≥0.1%.

Benzyl Salicylate

UV absorber/light stabilizer, restricted in EU; potential sensitizer, risk assessment needed.

Farnesol

Farnesol, a fixative and deodorant; listed as a EU 26 allergen, requires labeling, potential sensitizer.

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Cananga Odorata Flower Oil

Ylang-ylang essential oil, natural fragrance; contains multiple allergens, restrict usage per EU regulations, avoid for sensitive skin

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