cipher Multi-Corrective Overnight Facial

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Propanediol
3. Mandelic Acid
4. Lactic Acid
5. Glyceryl Stearate
6. Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil
7. Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
8. Gluconolactone
9. Niacinamide
10. Isodecyl Neopentanoate
11. Glycereth-26
12. Glycerin
13. Salicylic Acid
14. Ethyl Oleate
15. Myristyl Myristate
16. PEG-100 Stearate
17. Glyceryl Oleate Citrate
18. Arginine
19. Dimethyl Isosorbide
20. Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
21. Yeast Ferment Extract
22. Cetyl Alcohol
23. Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
24. Madecassoside
25. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
26. Plankton Extract
27. Panthenol
28. Soy Amino Acids
29. Olive Glycerides
30. Hydroxyacetophenone
31. Diheptyl Succinate
32. Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
33. Sodium Hyaluronate
34. Bisabolol
35. Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
36. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
37. Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
38. Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
39. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
40. Sodium Hydroxide
41. Sodium Phytate
42. Potassium Sorbate

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains essential oilsContains PEGContains fragrance

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

ANTIMICROBIAL

Mandelic Acid

BUFFERING

Lactic Acid

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Glyceryl StearateOpuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

SKIN CONDITIONING

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

CHELATING

Gluconolactone

Other ingredients

NiacinamideIsodecyl NeopentanoateGlycereth-26GlycerinSalicylic AcidEthyl OleateMyristyl MyristatePEG-100 StearateGlyceryl Oleate CitrateArginineDimethyl IsosorbideDiglucosyl Gallic AcidYeast Ferment ExtractCetyl AlcoholAnanas Sativus Fruit ExtractMadecassosidePalmitoyl Tripeptide-38Plankton ExtractPanthenolSoy Amino AcidsOlive GlyceridesHydroxyacetophenoneDiheptyl SuccinateHydroxypropyl Starch PhosphateSodium HyaluronateBisabololZingiber Officinale Root ExtractCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid CopolymerHydroxypropyl CyclodextrinPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Sodium HydroxideSodium PhytatePotassium Sorbate

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Mandelic Acid

Alpha-hydroxy acid for exfoliation and antibacterial effects; mild penetration, less photosensitivity than other AHAs

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

Prickly pear seed oil; rich in vitamin E and linoleic acid; emollient; oxidation-prone, store away from light

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Synthetic peptide emollient regulating sebum and hydration; low comedogenic, used in acne-prone and oily skin formulas.

Gluconolactone

Multifunctional agent for chelation and permeation; acidic, may irritate at high levels, buffer recommended.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Volatile dry ester for make-up/emulsions; fast-drying, non-greasy, seal to prevent weight loss.

Glycereth-26

Glycereth-26, humectant/viscosity modifier at 1–5%; non-ionic water-soluble, boosts stability and feel.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Ethyl Oleate

Light emollient ester, fast absorption for oily skin; may contain fragrance traces

Myristyl Myristate

Di-C14 ester, waxy solid for thickening and conditioning; provides matte and smooth feel, low comedogenicity, good for compacts.

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Glyceryl Oleate Citrate

Emulsifier, with cleansing and moisturizing functions

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dimethyl isosorbide as solvent and viscosity control; low toxicity, common use

Diglucosyl Gallic Acid

Diglucosyl gallic acid from tea, hair antioxidant; water-soluble, gentle on scalp

Yeast Ferment Extract

Fermented humectant, 1-5% common; monitor batch stability, patch test for sensitive skin.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Pineapple extract with protease and Vit C; mild AHA exfoliant; may irritate at high levels, use caution.

Madecassoside

Triterpenoid glycoside with soothing, repairing, and antioxidant effects; typical concentration 0.1-1%, suitable for sensitive or compromised skin, good stability.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl tripeptide; signaling peptide for collagen and antioxidants; 0.1-1% typical, light-sensitive

Plankton Extract

Plankton extract for skin conditioning; low concentrations typical, ensure source purity to avoid microbial contamination.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Soy Amino Acids

Not decoded yet

Olive Glycerides

Olive-derived mono/diglycerides as auxiliary O/W emulsifiers and emollients; screen olive-allergy risk.

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyacetophenone as antioxidant; often boosts Vitamin C, works in acidic pH.

Diheptyl Succinate

Light emollient ester; refreshing non-greasy feel, often replaces heavier mineral oils.

Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate

Thickener and bulking agent for creams; 1-5%, avoid cationic systems

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Root extract for scent and toning; may irritate compromised skin.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Film-forming conditioner for hair/skin protection; hydrophobic, pair with water phase

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Cyclodextrin to complex fragrances/actives; boosts solubility and stability.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Sodium Phytate

Chelating agent stabilizes metal ions to prevent oxidative degradation; also used in oral care, high safety profile.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

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