Barrier repair · Brightening · Oil control · Hydrating
Niacinamide
Niacinamide
烟酰胺
- INCI
- Niacinamide
- Family
- 维生素及衍生物
- Typical use level
- 2–5%;超过5%后使用者刺痛反馈明显增多,高添加需先做人群试用
- pH window
- 5.0–7.0(约pH 6附近最稳)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1)与低pH的直接酸体系(高浓度果酸、水杨酸、乙基VC)同锅长时间共存,会水解生成烟酸,带来潮红、刺痛反馈与鱼腥/氨样气味,这是最常见的翻车形式。2)与纯L-抗坏血酸同体系,在低pH加高温条件下容易泛黄,常规做法是两者不同锅、或降温后再加、或明确让出pH。3)与铜盐类原料(如蓝铜肽体系)会发生络合,体系变色且两边活性互相干扰,应视为直接冲突。4)与单宁、多酚含量高的草本提取物(白柳皮、绿茶、五倍子、栗子壳)在酸性条件下叠加,尤其在有铁离子时,货架期颜色会逐步加深至黄褐。5)与酸性防腐体系(苯甲酸、山梨酸类)搭配时,为了保证防腐效力压低pH,会同时把烟酰胺推入水解区间,两者需要一起权衡而不是分开定。
Stability
干粉状态非常稳定,常温密封可长期保存。水溶液在pH 5–7、常温下稳定;pH低于4或高于8显著加速水解为烟酸,长时间在70–80℃以上保温同样加速。对光不敏感,但与铁、铜等金属离子共存时,颜色会随时间加深,所以螯合剂是配套项。另一个容易被忽略的变量是原料本身:不同批次COA上的烟酸杂质含量差别很大,杂质高的批次成品放置后更容易出现气味与刺痛投诉,配方没改却出问题时先查进料。稳定性方案应同时监测pH、颜色与气味三项,不能只测含量。
Processing notes
1)归水相,优先在冷却阶段加入(建议45℃以下)。若必须随水相加热溶解,控制在60℃以内并尽量缩短保温时间。2)室温水中溶解度很高,不需要助溶剂,常规搅拌5–10分钟即溶,不要为了溶得快而提温。3)与酸性活性共配时,先把体系pH调到5.0以上再加烟酰胺,不要在低pH状态下长时间热搅;调pH时缓慢滴加,避免局部酸区。4)必配螯合剂(EDTA二钠或植酸类),并使用去离子水,防止金属离子致黄。5)进料环节盯COA上的烟酸杂质项,建立进厂验收标准。6)放大生产最大的坑是降温曲线:大锅从80℃降到40℃所需时间远长于小样,烟酰胺在高温段的实际停留时间可能是小样的数倍,"小样不臭、大样有味"多半出在这里,中试时必须按实际降温曲线复核而不是照抄小样工艺。
What it addresses
维生素B3的酰胺形式,是体内NAD/NADP辅酶体系的前体分子,水溶性极好,常用于屏障与肤色均匀度方向,也常出现在控油类配方中。它在配方里的角色是高添加量的水相主活性,几乎不影响肤感与流变,因此客户点名率很高。真正决定成品成败的不是加多少,而是它在生产过程中经历了什么样的pH与温度,因为它的降解产物烟酸会直接带来气味与刺痛类投诉。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 在中国属于常规使用的化妆品原料,按产品的普通/特殊分类走对应备案或注册路径,涉及功效宣称需另备符合要求的评价资料;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟市场常规使用,需在安全评估文件中纳入原料纯度与杂质信息(尤其烟酸残留);以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 美国市场作为普通化妆品成分常规使用,宣称措辞不得越过化妆品与药品的边界;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚主要市场常规使用,各市场对功效表述的接受度差异较大,须逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 07359
- Standard Chinese name
- 烟酰胺
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (07359)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (35499) · 功能 SMOOTHING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 烟酰胺,维生素B3,尼克酰胺,菸鹼醯胺,Nicotinamide,Vitamin B3
- CAS
- 98-92-0
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Toner · Lotion · Cream · Gel · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 合成来源,与动物源无关,通常可做vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.