A'PIEU Glycolic Acid Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Betula Alba Juice
2. Water
3. Propanediol
4. Tromethamine
5. Glycolic Acid
6. Cetearyl Alcohol
7. Glycereth-26
8. 1,2-Hexanediol
9. Niacinamide
10. Butylene Glycol
11. Glycerin
12. Cyclopentasiloxane
13. Beeswax
14. Dimethicone
15. Polysorbate 60
16. Cyclohexasiloxane
17. Sorbitan Stearate
18. PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
19. Glyceryl Stearate
20. Panthenol
21. Salicylic Acid
22. Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
23. Xanthan Gum
24. Hydroxyacetophenone
25. Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
26. PEG-100 Stearate
27. Isohexadecane
28. PEG-2M
29. Hydrogenated lecithin
30. Allantoin
31. Sucrose Distearate
32. Polysorbate 80
33. Adenosine
34. Sorbitan Oleate
35. Disodium EDTA
36. Pantolactone
37. Lactobacillus
38. Phenoxyethanol
39. Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
40. Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract
41. Arnica Montana Flower Extract
42. Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
43. Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
44. Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains siliconesContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains mineral oilContains parabens

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SOLVENT

Propanediol

BUFFERING

TromethamineGlycolic Acid

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Cetearyl Alcohol

HUMECTANT

Glycereth-26

SKIN CONDITIONING

1,2-Hexanediol

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

Other ingredients

Betula Alba JuiceButylene GlycolGlycerinCyclopentasiloxaneBeeswaxDimethiconePolysorbate 60CyclohexasiloxaneSorbitan StearatePEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 EtherGlyceryl StearatePanthenolSalicylic AcidArtemisia Princeps Leaf ExtractXanthan GumHydroxyacetophenoneSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerPEG-100 StearateIsohexadecanePEG-2MHydrogenated lecithinAllantoinSucrose DistearatePolysorbate 80AdenosineSorbitan OleateDisodium EDTAPantolactoneLactobacillusPhenoxyethanolAnanas Sativus Fruit ExtractAlchemilla Vulgaris ExtractArnica Montana Flower ExtractActinidia Chinensis Fruit ExtractPyrus Malus Fruit ExtractGaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Betula Alba Juice

Not decoded yet

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Tromethamine

pH adjuster, alkaline; precise dosing required

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid for exfoliation; requires buffering at concentrations >10%, avoid combination with other acids.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Glycereth-26

Glycereth-26, humectant/viscosity modifier at 1–5%; non-ionic water-soluble, boosts stability and feel.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.

Beeswax

Beeswax, natural thickener and film former; provides occlusive moisturization, natural honey scent, animal-derived, potential allergen

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Cyclohexasiloxane

Volatile cyclic silicone evaporating without residue; ensure compliance with EU limits on cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, use octamer

Sorbitan Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier for O/W systems; hydrophobic, requires co-emulsifiers, inert at high purity

PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether

PEG-modified polymer for light stabilization and thickening. PEG chain may cause irritation or sensitization.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Artemisia Princeps leaf extract containing volatile components; potential irritant risk, limit usage and patch test for sensitive skin.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyacetophenone as antioxidant; often boosts Vitamin C, works in acidic pH.

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Acrylate copolymer for film/thickening; water-soluble, compatible, monitor residual monomers.

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Isohexadecane

Lightweight mineral-oil-derived emollient and solvent; low viscosity, non-comedogenic, improves texture

PEG-2M

Polyethylene glycol 2000 used to control viscosity and stabilize emulsions; hygroscopic, requires preservative compatibility.

Hydrogenated lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Sucrose Distearate

Nonionic emulsifier and emollient at 1–3%; biodegradable, low irritancy, for mild cleansing and emulsions

Polysorbate 80

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer; watch for interaction with parabens

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Sorbitan Oleate

Non-ionic emulsifier for oil-in-water systems; plant-derived, check oxidative stability

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Pantolactone

Pantolactone, humectant; hydrolyzes to release panthenol, improves skin hydration, low level use, high safety

Lactobacillus

Lactobacillus derivatives for skin conditioning; verify fermentation purity and safety.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Pineapple extract with protease and Vit C; mild AHA exfoliant; may irritate at high levels, use caution.

Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract

Lady's mantle extract; botanical astringent, used in skin care and soothing formulas, low concentration.

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Arnica extract; plant soothing/perfume alternative; low conc, potential sensitizer, patch test advised

Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract

Botanical extract used as a skin conditioning agent

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Apple fruit extract, polyphenols for conditioning and antioxidant; batch variation needs standardization

Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract

Wintergreen leaf extract; contains methyl salicylate. Aromatic and cooling. Potential allergen for some.