smood Problem Solver Gel Cream Moisturizer

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Butylene Glycol
3. Dipropylene Glycol
4. Glycerin
5. Cyclopentasiloxane
6. Niacinamide
7. Propanediol
8. Cyclohexasiloxane
9. 1,2-Hexanediol
10. Dicaprylyl Carbonate
11. C12-16 Alcohols
12. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
13. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
14. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
15. Hydrogenated Lecithin
16. Palmitic Acid
17. Sodium Polyacrylate
18. Glyceryl Stearate
19. PEG-100 Stearate
20. Disodium EDTA
21. Ethylhexylglycerin
22. Sorbitan Isostearate
23. Polysorbate 60
24. Citric Acid
25. Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
26. Squalane
27. Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
28. Cholesterol
29. Arbutin
30. Allantoin
31. Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract
32. Octyldodecanol
33. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
34. Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
35. Tocopherol
36. Panax Ginseng Root Extract
37. Lecithin
38. Avena Sativa Meal Extract
39. Sodium Hyaluronate
40. Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
41. Curcuma Longa Root Extract
42. Centella Asiatica Extract
43. Ceramide NP
44. Rice Ferment Filtrate
45. Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
46. Panthenol
47. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
48. Tocopheryl Acetate
49. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
50. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
51. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
52. Glyceryl Linolenate
53. Glyceryl Arachidonate
54. Hyaluronic Acid
55. Thiamine Hcl
56. Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
57. Retinyl Palmitate
58. Pyridoxine
59. Folic Acid
60. Biotin
61. Potassium Hyaluronate
62. Cyanocobalamin

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains siliconesContains mineral oilContains animal-derivedContains PEGContains essential oilsContains fragrance

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

FRAGRANCE

Dipropylene Glycol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

CyclopentasiloxaneCyclohexasiloxane

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SOLVENT

Propanediol

Other ingredients

1,2-HexanediolDicaprylyl CarbonateC12-16 AlcoholsHydrogenated PolyisobuteneHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerHydrogenated LecithinPalmitic AcidSodium PolyacrylateGlyceryl StearatePEG-100 StearateDisodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerinSorbitan IsostearatePolysorbate 60Citric AcidGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid CopolymerSqualaneRosa Canina Fruit OilCholesterolArbutinAllantoinRhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit ExtractOctyldodecanolCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractTocopherolPanax Ginseng Root ExtractLecithinAvena Sativa Meal ExtractSodium HyaluronatePhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl GlutamateCurcuma Longa Root ExtractCentella Asiatica ExtractCeramide NPRice Ferment FiltrateCamellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractPanthenolHydroxypropyltrimonium HyaluronateTocopheryl AcetateSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateSodium Acetylated HyaluronateHydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidGlyceryl LinolenateGlyceryl ArachidonateHyaluronic AcidThiamine HclSodium Hyaluronate CrosspolymerRetinyl PalmitatePyridoxineFolic AcidBiotinPotassium HyaluronateCyanocobalamin

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Dipropylene Glycol

Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Cyclohexasiloxane

Volatile cyclic silicone evaporating without residue; ensure compliance with EU limits on cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, use octamer

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Light emollient solvent at 5–15%; mineral oil-free, refreshing feel, low sensitization.

C12-16 Alcohols

Fatty alcohol mix for conditioning and stability; very low comedogenicity, enhances feel.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated polyisobutene; petroleum-derived lubricant forming breathable film; high purity, low irritation/comedogenicity.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

High-molecular-weight thickener and emulsion stabilizer; requires electrolytes or acid adjustment near isoelectric point for optimal performance.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Palmitic Acid

Palmitic acid for emulsification/emollient; solid fat, high melting point, occlusive.

Sodium Polyacrylate

Superabsorbent resin, <1%; gels with electrolytes, ionic strength control required.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Sorbitan Isostearate

Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Acrylate copolymer for thickening and moisturizing; synthetic polymer with low sensitization risk.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Rosehip oil, rich in oleic/linoleic acids for emolliency/repair; prone to oxidation, needs protection

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Arbutin

Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; typical use 1-2%, comply with EU restrictions on specific arbutins.

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract

Rhodomyrtus extract. Natural humectant. Watch for potential plant allergens.

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Botanical extract for skin and hair conditioning; activity and irritation risk vary by source/purity, patch test for sensitive skin

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Avena Sativa Meal Extract

Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract for soothing and conditioning; sensitive-skin friendly but potential protein allergen

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Phytosterol blend for skin conditioning; gentle, barrier-repairing, low irritation.

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Turmeric root extract, contains curcumin, colorant/antioxidant; high doses may sensitize.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Rice Ferment Filtrate

Contains amino acids/sugars; improves feel and hydration; fermentation byproducts may cause allergy.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Green tea extract for antioxidant/astringent; contains caffeine, possible irritation in sensitive skin.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Cationic hyaluronic acid, 0.1–1%; water-soluble thickener and conditioning agent.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Acetylated HA; modified for hydrophobicity, improved penetration and non-tacky feel compared to standard HA.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Low-MW humectant with superior penetration vs high-MW; 0.1-0.5% typical, hygroscopic, store dry to prevent clumping.

Glyceryl Linolenate

Emollient/moisturizer; potential allergen, caution in sensitive skin

Glyceryl Arachidonate

Biomimetic lipid, barrier repair, 1-2%; lipophilic, oxidizes easily, add antioxidants.

Hyaluronic Acid

High-water-binding humectant at 0.1-1%; high-MW for surface film, low-MW for dermal potential, check cationic compatibility.

Thiamine Hcl

Vitamin B1 hydrochloride; acts as conditioner and fragrance agent, used at low concentrations for skin health and metabolism.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Crosslinked high-MW HA; forms surface hydrogel for long-lasting hydration, minimal penetration, physical film-forming.

Retinyl Palmitate

Vitamin A ester for skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires protection, avoid in pregnancy.

Pyridoxine

Vitamin B6, water-soluble; skin/hair conditioner/anti-static, poor light stability, protect from light.

Folic Acid

Folic acid, Vitamin B9, used for skin conditioning to support cellular metabolism

Biotin

Vitamin B7 nutrient claimant; topical effect limited, use at 1-20 ppm.

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic salt, excellent humectant; efficacy varies with MW, best with occlusive base

Cyanocobalamin

Vitamin B12 derivative, antioxidant and skin conditioning; light-sensitive, requires light-protective packaging, water-soluble

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