sesderma Azelac Ru Serum
sesderma Sesderma Azelac Ru Serum lists 28 ingredients on its label, 24 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Aqua
- Propylene Glycol
- Alcohol
- Peg/Ppg-20/6 Dimethicone
- Polymethyl Methacrylate
- Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
- 4-Butylresorcinol
- Azelaic Acid
- Retinol
- Ascorbyl Glucoside
- Niacin
- Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
- Glycyrrhetinic Acid
- Diacetyl Boldine
- Citronellyl Methylcrotonate
- Sodium Oxalate
- Parfum
- Carbomer
- Xanthan Gum
- Tocopheryl Acetate
- Polysorbate 20
- Bht
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Sodium Hydroxide
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Sodium Chloride
- Bha
- Hydrochloric Acid
Highlights
Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains alcoholContains mineral oilContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance
Formulation view High-potency serum combining salicylic acid and niacinamide for exfoliation, with retinol and vitamin C derivatives. Ethanol and glycol provide quick-dry systems. Suitable for oily skin; sensitive types should avoid. Factory perspective: Co-existence of retinol and acids demands extreme light protection, cold filling, and strict pH monitoring for efficacy.
Key ingredients
- SOLVENT
- Aqua
- HUMECTANT
- Propylene Glycol
- ANTIFOAMING
- Alcohol
- FILM FORMING
- Polymethyl Methacrylate
- SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING
- Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
- BUFFERING
- Azelaic Acid
- SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III
- Retinol
- ANTIOXIDANT
- Ascorbyl Glucoside
Other ingredients
Peg/Ppg-20/6 Dimethicone4-ButylresorcinolNiacinUndecylenoyl PhenylalanineGlycyrrhetinic AcidDiacetyl BoldineCitronellyl MethylcrotonateSodium OxalateParfumCarbomerXanthan GumTocopheryl AcetatePolysorbate 20BhtEthylhexylglycerinSodium HydroxideCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideSodium ChlorideBhaHydrochloric Acid
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aqua | SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Propylene Glycol | HUMECTANT, FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Alcohol | ANTIFOAMING, ANTIMICROBIAL, ASTRINGENT, FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Peg/Ppg-20/6 Dimethicone | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Polymethyl Methacrylate | FILM FORMING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 1 · 2 | Green |
| 4-Butylresorcinol | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Azelaic Acid | BUFFERING, FRAGRANCE | 3 · 0 | Green |
| Retinol | SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III/376 | 3 · 0 | Yellow |
| Ascorbyl Glucoside | ANTIOXIDANT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Niacin | ANTISTATIC, SMOOTHING | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine | SKIN CONDITIONING | – · 0 | Green |
| Glycyrrhetinic Acid | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Diacetyl Boldine | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Citronellyl Methylcrotonate | FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Oxalate | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Parfum | FRAGRANCE, PERFUMING | 2 · 0 | Yellow |
| Carbomer | EMULSION STABILISING, GEL FORMING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Xanthan Gum | BINDING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, GEL FORMING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Tocopheryl Acetate | ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Polysorbate 20 | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Bht | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE · 限制 III / 325 | 0 · 0 | Yellow |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | DEODORANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Hydroxide | BUFFERING, DENATURANT · 限制 III/15a | 3 · – | Green |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | FRAGRANCE, SOLVENT, PERFUMING, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Chloride | BULKING, FRAGRANCE, ORAL CARE, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Bha | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE | 0 · 0 | Yellow |
| Hydrochloric Acid | BUFFERING | 2 · 0 | Green |
Ingredients explained
- Aqua
- Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical
- Propylene Glycol
- Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.
- Alcohol
- Ethanol for solubility/drying at 5-15%; high conc. is drying/irritating, avoid lip/eye, low residue, balance with humectants.
- Peg/Ppg-20/6 Dimethicone
- Not decoded yet
- Polymethyl Methacrylate
- PMMA for thickening, suspension, and film; micro-size powder carrier, very low irritation
- Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
- Solubilizer and emulsifier for oil-soluble ingredients; high concentrations may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive skin.
- 4-Butylresorcinol
- Not decoded yet
- Azelaic Acid
- Acne and pigment agent; 15-20% can be irritating, needs controlled release or lower doses.
- Retinol
- Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated
- Ascorbyl Glucoside
- Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.
- Niacin
- Niacin (B3) smoother; high topological concentrations may cause flushing, often used as co-agent or precursor.
- Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
- Synthetic peptide emollient regulating sebum and hydration; low comedogenic, used in acne-prone and oily skin formulas.
- Glycyrrhetinic Acid
- Glycyrrhizic acid; anti-inflammatory; poor water solubility, needs solubilization.
- Diacetyl Boldine
- Not decoded yet
- Citronellyl Methylcrotonate
- Used for floral fragrance notes; listed as one of the 26 EU allergens, must be declared in labeling.
- Sodium Oxalate
- Not decoded yet
- Parfum
- Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.
- Carbomer
- Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility
- Xanthan Gum
- Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration
- Tocopheryl Acetate
- Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light
- Polysorbate 20
- Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.
- Bht
- Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel
- Sodium Hydroxide
- Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin
- Sodium Chloride
- Salt for gel viscosity control; used as precipitant in soaps
- Bha
- Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); oil-phase antioxidant. Use <0.05%. Controversial at high levels.
- Hydrochloric Acid
- Strong acid for trace pH buffering; use diluted solutions carefully to avoid pH spikes and corrosion.
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-18. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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