Brightening · Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Ascorbyl Glucoside
抗坏血酸葡糖苷
- INCI
- Ascorbyl Glucoside
- Family
- 维生素及衍生物
- Typical use level
- 1–2%;多数体系做到2%已接近水溶与稳定性的现实边界
- pH window
- 5.0–7.0(偏中性更稳,强酸与强碱都加速分解)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1)铁、铜等过渡金属离子会显著加速泛黄,来源包括生产用水、色浆、金属工具与包材金属件,以及某些植物提取物自带的金属残留,螯合剂是必配项而非可选项。2)与高浓度草本多酚(绿茶、白柳皮、五倍子、栗子壳、迷迭香提取物)叠加时,双方的氧化产物互相催化,变色速度比单用任何一方都快;"加点植提显得更天然"是这条原料最常见的翻车动机。3)与pH高于7.5的碱性体系或含游离氨基的碱剂长期共存,降解与颜色加深同步加快。4)与含还原糖的高糖发酵滤液共存,在高温下存在美拉德样褐变风险。5)与含糖苷酶活性的酶解类原料同配,理论上会在瓶子里提前把它水解掉,等于白花钱买了衍生物。6)与乙基VC等酸性维C衍生物同配时最佳pH不在一处,硬凑的结果是两边都不稳。
Stability
比L-抗坏血酸稳定得多,但绝不是不变色。典型轨迹是无色转浅黄再转琥珀色,速度由pH、金属离子、温度、氧含量四项共同决定,pH越高、金属越多、温度越高越快。见光加速,应优先使用避光包材。加速试验只做45℃一个月往往低估问题,应同时安排室温6个月留样和实际包材在货架灯光下的暴露对照,并在打样阶段就与品牌方确认"可接受的最深颜色",做成色板留档——多数纠纷不是含量不合格,而是颜色没有事先约定。
Processing notes
1)水相原料,冷却阶段加入(建议45℃以下),不要跟着水相走全程热历程。2)溶解速度偏慢且粉末易结团,先用部分配方水单独预溶至清亮再并锅,结团处会形成局部高浓度并拖长溶解时间。3)必配螯合剂(EDTA二钠或植酸、葡糖酸钠类),并使用去离子水;生产用水的金属残留是批间色差最常见的隐藏变量。4)体系pH建议控制在5.5–6.5;若必须与酸性活性同配,先决定谁让步并把决定写进工艺文件。5)尽量减少搅拌带入的空气,乳化后避免高速空搅,有条件在灌装前做惰性气体顶空。6)包材优先不透明或深色、阻氧性好的材质,避免透明PET直接在白光货架陈列。7)放大生产的坑:大锅的溶氧与顶空空气总量比小样多,同一配方大样更容易早期泛黄,先做一次中试留样再定量产工艺,不要用小样数据直接放行。
What it addresses
抗坏血酸2位羟基被葡萄糖基化的衍生物,糖苷键把易被氧化的烯二醇结构保护起来,因此在配方中比游离维C耐氧化得多,常用于肤色均匀度与抗氧化方向。它需要经皮肤上的糖苷酶水解释放抗坏血酸,起效路径与游离维C不同。配方端真正要解决的问题不是"能不能加",而是到货架期末还留得住多少、以及颜色能否被品牌方接受。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 在中国按常规化妆品原料使用,涉及功效宣称需另备符合要求的评价资料;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟市场常规使用,安全评估中注明浓度与体系pH;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 美国市场作为普通化妆品成分常规使用,宣称需控制在化妆品范畴内;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚主要市场使用普遍,各市场对肤色相关表述的口径差异较大,须逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 04104
- Standard Chinese name
- 抗坏血酸葡糖苷
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (04104)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (54531) · 功能 ANTIOXIDANT
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 抗坏血酸葡糖苷,维C葡糖苷,AA2G,2-O-α-D-吡喃葡萄糖基-L-抗坏血酸,Ascorbyl Glucoside
- CAS
- 129499-78-1
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Toner · Lotion · Cream · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 合成或酶法来源,通常可做vegan(酶法需确认所用酶的来源);清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.