Soothing
Beta-Glucan
Beta-Glucan
β-葡聚糖
- INCI
- Beta-Glucan
- Family
- 多糖
- Typical use level
- 0.1–1%
- pH window
- 4.0–7.5
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Incompatibilities and failure points
高分子量酵母 β-葡聚糖溶液黏且拉丝,与卡波、丙烯酸酯类增稠剂叠加后常出现胶感重、涂抹起球搓泥,与高分子量透明质酸钠同用尤其明显,叠加时必须减量。乙醇超过约 20% 会析出返浊。强氧化剂与部分酶类会降解链段,导致存放期黏度下降。与阳离子聚合物配伍需逐批小试,不同纯化工艺带来的杂质与残留电荷差别很大。最容易出事的其实不是配伍而是报价比对:酵母来源、燕麦来源、以及 1% 稀溶液与 70% 粉体,在报价单上都写作 β-葡聚糖,但黏度、肤感与实际用量完全不同,询价与打样必须锁定来源、分子量级别与固含量。
Stability
干粉稳定;水溶液在 80 ℃ 以上长时间加热会降解降黏。酵母来源溶液常带浅黄至浅褐色并带特征气味,受热与见光会加深,建议避光包装并在小样阶段就确认色泽与香型的匹配。溶液营养丰富、微生物易感,来料菌检与成品防腐挑战都要做足。反复冻融可能析出。pH 低于 3 或高于 9 长期存放会水解。若采购的是稀溶液形态,必须核算其自带防腐体系与配方防腐的兼容性和总量,避免叠加超量或体系冲突。
Processing notes
液体形态直接后加,体系降到 40 ℃ 以下加入最稳。粉体必须预分散(甘油或丙二醇打浆,或冷水撒入慢搅),高分子量酵母葡聚糖水合慢,建议单独配母液静置过夜。采购与打样阶段必须在规格书上写清三件事:来源(酵母、燕麦或其它)、分子量或黏度指标、固含量或纯度;只写 β-葡聚糖 0.5% 的配方单在换供应商时几乎必然对不上肤感,客户会认为配方被改过。切换供应商要重做黏度与稳定性验证,不能等量替换。水合完成后避免长时间高速均质。带色带味的批次要提前评估对成品色泽与香型的影响。
What it addresses
由葡萄糖以 β-糖苷键连接而成的多糖,来源决定结构:酵母来源以 β-1,3/1,6 支链为主,分子量高,水溶液明显黏稠带拉丝;燕麦来源以 β-1,3/1,4 线性结构为主,分子量与黏度低得多,肤感清爽。配方中主要提供成膜保湿与舒缓方向的感官与质地支持。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用,需确认具体来源物种对应的中国已使用原料信息,以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用,由供应商提供安全评估资料,以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用,按目标市场规则复核,以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩市场常见,常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 01010
- Standard Chinese name
- β-葡聚糖
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 30%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (01010)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Not listed
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- β-葡聚糖,贝塔葡聚糖,酵母葡聚糖,燕麦葡聚糖,Yeast Beta-Glucan,Oat Beta-Glucan,Saccharomyces cerevisiae 来源
- CAS
- 未确认
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Cream · Lotion · Sheet mask · Gel · Toner
- Halal and vegan
- 酵母或谷物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明并确认发酵培养基是否含动物源成分。燕麦来源涉及麸质相关表述时,由客户与供应商另行确认。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.