melixir Vegan Vitamin C Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
2. Butylene Glycol
3. Propanediol
4. Alcohol
5. Ascorbic Acid
6. Diethoxyethyl Succinate
7. Propylene Carbonate
8. Arbutin
9. Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
10. Dipropylene Glycol
11. Glycerin
12. Hydrolyzed Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
13. Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
14. Portulaca Oleracea Extract
15. Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
16. Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
17. Acanthopanax Sessiliflorum Bark Extract
18. Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
19. Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
20. Tagetes Erecta Flower Extract
21. Moringa Oleifera Leaf Extract
22. Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
23. Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
24. Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract
25. Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
26. Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract
27. Citrofortunella Microcarpa Fruit Extract
28. Maclura Tricuspidata Bark Extract
29. Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
30. Sodium Hyaluronate
31. Levan
32. Beta-Glucan
33. Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract
34. Tocopherol
35. Ferulic Acid
36. Hydroxycinnamic Acid
37. Ubiquinone
38. Decyltetradeceth-25
39. Octyldodeceth-16
40. Octyldodeceth-25
41. Polysorbate 60
42. Caffeine
43. Allantoin
44. Panthenol
45. Glycine
46. Carnitine
47. Arginine
48. Glutathione
49. Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
50. Xanthophylls
51. Caffeic Acid
52. Adenosine
53. Fullerenes
54. Zea Mays Oil
55. 1,2-Hexanediol
56. Sodium Carbonate
57. Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
58. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
59. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
60. PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
61. Propyl Gallate
62. Tromethamine
63. Tetrasodium EDTA
64. Fragrance
65. PVP
66. Sodium Metabisulfite

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains alcoholContains fragranceContains PEGContains siliconesContains EU-26 allergens

Formulation view Feature-rich serum with sea buckthorn extract. Core actives include ascorbic acid and arbutin for brightening. Solvents use glycols and alcohol for solubility and feel. Complex plant extract blend supports texture. No primary preservative listed. Suitable for brightening routines. Formulator note: L-ascorbic acid is unstable and alcohol can be drying for dry skin types.

Key ingredients

SKIN CONDITIONING

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

SOLVENT

PropanediolDiethoxyethyl SuccinatePropylene Carbonate

ANTIFOAMING

Alcohol

ANTIOXIDANT

Ascorbic AcidArbutin

Other ingredients

Boerhavia Diffusa Root ExtractDipropylene GlycolGlycerinHydrolyzed Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp ExtractVigna Radiata Seed ExtractPortulaca Oleracea ExtractGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root ExtractMorinda Citrifolia Fruit ExtractAcanthopanax Sessiliflorum Bark ExtractMyrciaria Dubia Fruit ExtractCitrus Unshiu Peel ExtractTagetes Erecta Flower ExtractMoringa Oleifera Leaf ExtractPanax Ginseng Berry ExtractRubus Fruticosus Fruit ExtractStevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem ExtractAstragalus Membranaceus Root ExtractIlex Paraguariensis Leaf ExtractCitrofortunella Microcarpa Fruit ExtractMaclura Tricuspidata Bark ExtractChlorella Vulgaris ExtractSodium HyaluronateLevanBeta-GlucanPinus Pinaster Bark ExtractTocopherolFerulic AcidHydroxycinnamic AcidUbiquinoneDecyltetradeceth-25Octyldodeceth-16Octyldodeceth-25Polysorbate 60CaffeineAllantoinPanthenolGlycineCarnitineArginineGlutathioneBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl SilaneXanthophyllsCaffeic AcidAdenosineFullerenesZea Mays Oil1,2-HexanediolSodium CarbonateEthylhexyl MethoxycrylenePolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerPEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 EtherPropyl GallateTromethamineTetrasodium EDTAFragrancePVPSodium Metabisulfite

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Sea buckthorn fruit extract for skin conditioning; stable at low levels, check phototoxicity at high doses.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Alcohol

Ethanol for solubility/drying at 5-15%; high conc. is drying/irritating, avoid lip/eye, low residue, balance with humectants.

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Water-soluble co-solvent for lipophilic actives; check preservative compatibility.

Propylene Carbonate

Inert solvent and viscosity modifier; often used as penetration enhancer, mild at low levels

Arbutin

Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; typical use 1-2%, comply with EU restrictions on specific arbutins.

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Boerhavia diffusa root extract; saponin-rich, 0.1–0.5% for skin repair, patch test, water phase

Dipropylene Glycol

Solvent for essential oils; better humectancy than PEG

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Hydrolyzed Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Not decoded yet

Vigna Radiata Seed Extract

Seed extract with proteins and polyphenols for hydration and conditioning.

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Achyronica extract with anti-inflammatory properties; monitor for heavy metals and pesticides, low-risk at typical doses

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Licorice root; anti-inflammatory/whitening, contains glycyrrhizin, caution for pollen-allergic individuals.

Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract

Morinda fruit extract containing phenolics, claimed for antioxidant and brightening effects; botanical extract variability requires strict internal QC standards.

Acanthopanax Sessiliflorum Bark Extract

Not decoded yet

Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract

Fruit extract for skin conditioning; low irritation, suitable as auxiliary active; no public comedogenic data.

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Citrus peel extract providing fragrance

Tagetes Erecta Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Moringa Oleifera Leaf Extract

Botanical leaf extract used as a conditioning agent; public irritancy and comedogenic data unavailable, monitor botanical consistency.

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Ginseng berry extract with saponins for antioxidant and protection; low concentration, auxiliary active.

Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract

Astringent and antioxidant extract; contains acids, may cause mild irritation

Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract

Stevia extract used as natural fragrance; plant-derived, test for sensitivity.

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Astragalus root extract for antioxidant and barrier-support conditioning

Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract

Yerba mate extract with saponins and caffeine; refreshing and antioxidant, watch for sensitization.

Citrofortunella Microcarpa Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Maclura Tricuspidata Bark Extract

Not decoded yet

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Algae extract for skin conditioning and antioxidant; typically 1-5%, monitor stability

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Levan

Not decoded yet

Beta-Glucan

Polysaccharide for soothing and hydration; high MW acts on the surface, poor penetration into deep dermis.

Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Bark extract used as an antioxidant; ensure consistent raw material sourcing.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Ferulic Acid

Antioxidant, often combined with vitamin C and E; 0.5-2%, photolabile

Hydroxycinnamic Acid

Hydroxycinnamic acid, natural antioxidant at 0.1–1%; good photostability, suits sunscreen/antioxidant formulas.

Ubiquinone

Coenzyme Q10 analog used as an antioxidant; prone to discoloration, needs protection from light and air.

Decyltetradeceth-25

Not decoded yet

Octyldodeceth-16

Not decoded yet

Octyldodeceth-25

Not decoded yet

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Caffeine

Active ingredient, 0.1–2%; promotes circulation, irritation risk at high concentration.

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Carnitine

Carnitine, used in cleansers as foam booster and conditioner; water-soluble, mild.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Glutathione

Antioxidant and brightening agent; unstable, requires antioxidants and protection from light.

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Silicone modifier for smoothness; contains PEG, used for foam and cleansing, manage PEG residuals

Xanthophylls

Carotenoid derivative used primarily as antioxidant and pigment; aqueous forms are prone to oxidation and require light/air protection.

Caffeic Acid

Not decoded yet

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Fullerenes

Carbon nanomaterial for antioxidant claims; limited clinical safety/efficacy data, use caution.

Zea Mays Oil

Corn oil; light emollient and stabilizer. Low comedogenic rating (1). Use at 2-5% as carrier.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Sodium Carbonate

Sodium carbonate; alkaline buffer and thickener; adjusts pH, corrosive at high levels, control dosage.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

Chemical UVB sunscreen agent, requires UVA pairing; potential allergen, strict concentration control needed for sensitive skin.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether

PEG-modified polymer for light stabilization and thickening. PEG chain may cause irritation or sensitization.

Propyl Gallate

Oil-soluble antioxidant for oil stability; mild skin irritant.

Tromethamine

pH adjuster, alkaline; precise dosing required

Tetrasodium EDTA

Chelator removing metal ions to enhance antioxidant and preservative efficacy; very low usage, typically 0.05-0.1%, no direct skincare function.

Fragrance

Fragrance; concentration must control allergen risk, label specific components

PVP

Polyvinylpyrrolidone for film forming and thickening; used in styling and adhesion, occasional eye irritation reported.

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant/preservative at 0.05–0.2%; irritating for sensitive skin, avoid with oxidizers

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