rationale #5 The Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Ethoxydiglycol
3. Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
4. Dimethyl Isosorbide
5. Salicylic Acid
6. Lactic Acid
7. Saccharum Officinarum Extract
8. Glycerin
9. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
10. Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
11. Sodium Levulinate
12. Acer Saccharum Extract
13. Diutan Gum
14. Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf
15. Sodium Anisate
16. Mentha Australis Leaf Extract
17. Butylene Glycol
18. Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil
19. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
20. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Oil
21. Juniperus Mexicana Oil
22. Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
23. Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil
24. Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil
25. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
26. Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
27. Citrus Limon Peel Oil
28. Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
29. Pentylene Glycol
30. Magnesium Aspartate
31. Zinc Gluconate
32. Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract
33. Sodium Benzoate
34. Citric Acid
35. Copper Gluconate
36. Potassium Sorbate
37. Glycine
38. Serine
39. Glutamic Acid
40. Aspartic Acid
41. Leucine
42. Alanine
43. Lysine
44. Arginine
45. Tyrosine
46. Phenylalanine
47. Proline
48. Threonine
49. Valine
50. Isoleucine
51. Histidine
52. Limonene
53. Citral
54. Linalool
55. Citronellol

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains parabensContains essential oils

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaDimethyl Isosorbide

HUMECTANT

Ethoxydiglycol

SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC

Salicylic Acid

BUFFERING

Lactic Acid

MOISTURISING

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

DENATURANT

Glycerin

Other ingredients

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit ExtractCitrus Limon Fruit ExtractSodium LevulinateAcer Saccharum ExtractDiutan GumMelaleuca Alternifolia LeafSodium AnisateMentha Australis Leaf ExtractButylene GlycolSantalum Spicatum Seed OilCitrus Aurantium Dulcis OilCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf OilJuniperus Mexicana OilPelargonium Graveolens OilCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower OilEugenia Caryophyllus Leaf OilCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilCitrus Grandis Peel OilCitrus Limon Peel OilLitsea Cubeba Fruit OilPentylene GlycolMagnesium AspartateZinc GluconateCitrus Australasica Fruit ExtractSodium BenzoateCitric AcidCopper GluconatePotassium SorbateGlycineSerineGlutamic AcidAspartic AcidLeucineAlanineLysineArginineTyrosinePhenylalanineProlineThreonineValineIsoleucineHistidineLimoneneCitralLinaloolCitronellol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethoxydiglycol; high-perf solv/humectant; low irrit, EU limit 20%, watch total PEG load

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Bilberry extract; anthocyanin rich; gentle antioxid/conditioning, no pub comed data

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dimethyl isosorbide as solvent and viscosity control; low toxicity, common use

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Sugarcane extract, mainly moisturizing and conditioning; use at low levels; prone to microbes, needs preservatives.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus peel extract, provides fragrance and astringency; photosensitive due to furanocoumarins; caution in daytime or remove photoactives.

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Lemon fruit extract for fragrance and occlusive moisturizing; contains furanocoumarins, photosensitivity caution advised.

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium levulinate, natural-derived humectant; generally mild, often used in blends.

Acer Saccharum Extract

Maple extract; NMF/AA source; gentle humectant, no public irritant/comedogenic data

Diutan Gum

Not decoded yet

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf

Not decoded yet

Sodium Anisate

Benzoate-based preservative component; used in combinations for antimicrobial effect, slight fragrance, control concentration.

Mentha Australis Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil

Santalum spicatum seed oil; 0.5–2% oil phase; aromatic emollient, unsaturated fatty acids, store dark, low allergenicity

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Sweet orange oil; fragrance/antioxidant, contains furanocoumarins (photosensitizing), use at night or with SPF.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Oil

Not decoded yet

Juniperus Mexicana Oil

Mexican juniper essential oil for scent; high levels of essential oils are irritating.

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Pelargonium graveolens oil containing citronellol and geraniol; used as perfuming agent, contains labeled allergens requiring compliance checks.

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Bitter orange flower oil, an essential oil used for fragrance and skin conditioning; contains labeled allergen compounds, caution for sensitive skin.

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Clove leaf oil for fragrance and conditioning; irritant risk at high levels, restricted by EU.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Bergamot essential oil, natural fragrance and photosensitizer; limit daytime use or use FCF grade

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Grapefruit peel oil for fragrance; EU restricted, sensitizing properties, used as fragrance.

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil for fragrance/skin conditioning; contains allergens, mind phototoxicity and compliance

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Litsaea cubeba fruit oil; distinct aroma, potential irritant; use as essential oil, label fully.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Magnesium Aspartate

Magnesium aspartate; water-soluble chelant/conditioner. Use at 1-2%; check chelation efficiency.

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Copper Gluconate

Copper gluconate; trace antioxidant/repair agent. Use <0.05%; high levels cause color change/irritation.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.

Aspartic Acid

Amino acid humectant and conditioner, common in rinse-off products; low levels mild, high levels may shift pH

Leucine

Amino acid for antistatic and skin/hair conditioning; used at low concentrations.

Alanine

Amino acid for antistatic and conditioning; low irritation, slight salty taste at high levels

Lysine

Amino acid conditioner for anti-static hair care; low irritation at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Tyrosine

Amino acid involved in melanin synthesis; used for hair conditioning.

Phenylalanine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning; usually part of a blend, no significant standalone efficacy data

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Threonine

Threonine, essential amino acid for hair/skin; blended with other AAs for balance.

Valine

Amino acid humectant, common in amino acid cleansers and sprays; mild, suitable for all skin types

Isoleucine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning and antistatic purposes; often blended; check taste if high.

Histidine

Amino acid humectant and antistatic agent; pH-dependent behavior, consider buffering in formulation.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citral

Citral; citrus fragrance component, listed EU allergen, high phototoxicity risk, strict concentration limits apply.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Citronellol

Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

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