allies-of-skin Allies of Skin 1A Overnight Mask

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
4. Propanediol
5. Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
6. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
7. Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract
8. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
9. Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
10. Dimethyl Isosorbide
11. Galactoarabinan
12. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
13. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
14. Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
15. Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
16. Sodium Hyaluronate
17. Oxycoccus Palustris Seed Oil
18. Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
19. Niacinamide
20. Withania Somnifera Root Extract
21. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract
22. Retinal
23. Pterostilbene
24. Ellagic Acid
25. Phenyl T-Butylnitrone
26. Ergothioneine
27. Glutathione
28. Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
29. N-Hydroxysuccinimide
30. Chrysin
31. Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole
32. Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
33. Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
34. Lavandula Hybrida Oil
35. Pentylene Glycol
36. Butylene Glycol
37. Cyclodextrin
38. Caprylyl Glycol
39. Steareth-20
40. Citric Acid
41. Xanthan Gum
42. Dextran
43. Acetyl Tributyl Citrate
44. Potassium Sorbate
45. Phenoxyethanol

Highlights

Contains fragranceContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergensContains animal-derived

Formulation view An overnight mask featuring hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and retinal, combined with plant polyphenols. Lacks traditional preservatives, relying on polyols and actives, which poses higher risks. Ideal for intensive repair. From a factory perspective, retinal is highly potent but unstable, demanding advanced encapsulation technology and strict cleanroom filling conditions.

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideAlbizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

BINDING

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

CLEANSING

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Other ingredients

Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana ExtractDimethyl IsosorbideGalactoarabinanPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3Cassia Angustifolia Seed PolysaccharideSodium HyaluronateOxycoccus Palustris Seed OilRubus Chamaemorus Seed OilNiacinamideWithania Somnifera Root ExtractCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture ExtractRetinalPterostilbeneEllagic AcidPhenyl T-ButylnitroneErgothioneineGlutathioneMirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem ExtractN-HydroxysuccinimideChrysinGlutamylamidoethyl ImidazoleLonicera Caprifolium Flower ExtractLonicera Japonica Flower ExtractLavandula Hybrida OilPentylene GlycolButylene GlycolCyclodextrinCaprylyl GlycolSteareth-20Citric AcidXanthan GumDextranAcetyl Tributyl CitratePotassium SorbatePhenoxyethanol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Jojoba oil rich in unsaturated fats; good penetration, non-comedogenic, prone to oxidation requiring antioxidants

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Water-soluble film former for styling and thickening; check residual acryloyl chloride for sensitive skin.

Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract

Not decoded yet

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Mild amino-acid surfactant, poor solubility, pairs with fatty alcohols, fine foam.

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Albizia bark extract; natural fragrance and conditioner, scent may need masking

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dimethyl isosorbide as solvent and viscosity control; low toxicity, common use

Galactoarabinan

Gum arabic polysaccharide; film-forming humectant; highly soluble.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 boosts collagen; use 0.1–1%, formulate with lipid carriers

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 for repair; requires lipid carrier, unstable in aqueous phase

Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3

Not decoded yet

Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide

Not decoded yet

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Oxycoccus Palustris Seed Oil

Not decoded yet

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Not decoded yet

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Withania Somnifera Root Extract

Ashwagandha root extract; soothing and repair, suits stress-related sensitive skin

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract

Not decoded yet

Retinal

Potent vitamin A aldehyde for cell turnover; low effective range 0.01-0.05%, unstable, avoid for pregnant users.

Pterostilbene

Not decoded yet

Ellagic Acid

SKIN CONDITIONING

Phenyl T-Butylnitrone

Not decoded yet

Ergothioneine

Ergothioneine, potent antioxidant; 0.01–0.1%, water-soluble, synergizes with Vit C/E.

Glutathione

Antioxidant and brightening agent; unstable, requires antioxidants and protection from light.

Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Not decoded yet

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Chemical auxiliary for forming acyl ester bonds; usually not retained in final product, control residual levels during synthesis.

Chrysin

Flavonoid for skin conditioning; low solubility, use carriers or micronization.

Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole

Not decoded yet

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Honeysuckle extract for soothing and antioxidants; trace use, low allergenic risk

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Honeysuckle extract for soothing; requires antimicrobial protection.

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Essential oil for emollience and fragrance; contains allergens like linalool, requires EU 26 labeling

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Cyclodextrin

Cyclodextrin; used as a stabilizer or solubilizer to improve solubility of active ingredients and fragrances

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Steareth-20

Not decoded yet

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Dextran

Polysaccharide for binding; water-soluble requires preservation.

Acetyl Tributyl Citrate

Acetylated citrate ester; plasticizer and fragrance carrier

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

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