sesderma Ferulac Anti-Aging System Step 1

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Propanediol
3. Glycerin
4. Hydrogenated Polydecene
5. Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
6. PEG-100 Stearate
7. Glyceryl Stearate
8. Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
9. Glyceryl Behenate
10. Cetyl Alcohol
11. Alcohol
12. Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
13. Ascorbyl Glucoside
14. Benzyl Salicylate
15. BHA
16. BHT
17. Carbomer
18. Citronellol
19. Citronellyl Methylcrotonate
20. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
21. Cyclopentasiloxane
22. Dimethicone
23. Disodium EDTA
24. Ethylhexylglycerin
25. Ferulic Acid
26. Hydrochloric Acid
27. Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
28. Isoceteth-10
29. Lecithin
30. Linalool
31. Parfum
32. Phenoxyethanol
33. Phloretin
34. Polysilicone-11
35. Polysorbate 20
36. Potassium Sorbate
37. Propylene Glycol
38. Retinol
39. Silica
40. Sodium Ascorbate
41. Sodium Chloride
42. Sodium Cholate
43. Sodium Hydroxide
44. Tocopheryl Acetate
45. Triethanolamine

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains fragranceContains mineral oilContains PEGContains siliconesContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Hydrogenated PolydeceneCetearyl EthylhexanoateGlyceryl Stearate

SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

PEG-100 Stearate

SKIN CONDITIONING

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Other ingredients

Glyceryl BehenateCetyl AlcoholAlcoholArgania Spinosa Kernel OilAscorbyl GlucosideBenzyl SalicylateBHABHTCarbomerCitronellolCitronellyl MethylcrotonateCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit ExtractCyclopentasiloxaneDimethiconeDisodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerinFerulic AcidHydrochloric AcidHydrogenated Jojoba OilIsoceteth-10LecithinLinaloolParfumPhenoxyethanolPhloretinPolysilicone-11Polysorbate 20Potassium SorbatePropylene GlycolRetinolSilicaSodium AscorbateSodium ChlorideSodium CholateSodium HydroxideTocopheryl AcetateTriethanolamine

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Hydrogenated polydecene, light mineral oil alternative, low comedogenic; silky, non-greasy.

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Cetearyl ester for emollience/stabilizing; light texture, low comedogenicity, suitable for oily skin.

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Crosslinked silicone thickener at 0.5-2%; silky/matte feel, non-comedogenic, partial oil phase incompatibility, use co-solvent/pre-emulsification.

Glyceryl Behenate

Emulsifier and thickener with emollient properties; high melting point, low comedogenicity.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Alcohol

Ethanol for solubility/drying at 5-15%; high conc. is drying/irritating, avoid lip/eye, low residue, balance with humectants.

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Jojoba oil rich in unsaturated fats; good penetration, non-comedogenic, prone to oxidation requiring antioxidants

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant; more stable than pure ascorbic acid, releases activity slowly in neutral/basic conditions.

Benzyl Salicylate

UV absorber/light stabilizer, restricted in EU; potential sensitizer, risk assessment needed.

BHA

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); oil-phase antioxidant. Use <0.05%. Controversial at high levels.

BHT

Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Citronellol

Citronellol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Citronellyl Methylcrotonate

Used for floral fragrance notes; listed as one of the 26 EU allergens, must be declared in labeling.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus peel extract, provides fragrance and astringency; photosensitive due to furanocoumarins; caution in daytime or remove photoactives.

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclopentasiloxane for emollient/solvent; volatile silicone, smooth feel, check VOC regulations.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Ferulic Acid

Antioxidant, often combined with vitamin C and E; 0.5-2%, photolabile

Hydrochloric Acid

Strong acid for trace pH buffering; use diluted solutions carefully to avoid pH spikes and corrosion.

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil

Hydrogenated jojoba oil, emollient; lower comedogenicity than native oil

Isoceteth-10

Not decoded yet

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Parfum

Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Phloretin

Not decoded yet

Polysilicone-11

Not decoded yet

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Silica

Silica powder at 1–10%; absorbs oil, thickens, provides matte finish, for oil-control products

Sodium Ascorbate

Sodium ascorbate; water-soluble vitamin C form, stable antioxidant. Mild at low conc., may irritate at high conc.

Sodium Chloride

Salt for gel viscosity control; used as precipitant in soaps

Sodium Cholate

Not decoded yet

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine for buffering; restricted, limit concentration to avoid high pH and irritation

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