Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Incompatibilities and failure points

1)与高浓度 AHA/BHA 的酸性体系:乙酸芳樟酯在低 pH 下缓慢水解为芳樟醇,香气从清甜柔和变生涩木质,三个月后的成品和刚打样的不是同一支——这是酸性精华里最常见的翻车点。2)与胺类中和剂或高 pH 皂基:碱性下香气发闷,并可能与体系中的醛类副组分反应而变黄。3)与已经氧化(过氧化值偏高)的柑橘油或不饱和油脂同处方:互相促氧化,芳樟醇氧化生成的氢过氧化物是薰衣草油最主要的致敏来源。4)与卡波类增稠剂的水体系:精油需增溶,增溶剂过量会显著拉低卡波黏度,水感变稀。5)与阳离子调理剂(护发):无化学冲突,但香气在冲洗型里留存差,靠加量硬补是浪费,应改用定香策略。6)标签风险:芳樟醇、柠檬烯等致敏组分随加量上升会跨过多个市场的单独标示门槛,这一支最常出问题的环节在标签而不在料体。

Stability

见光与遇氧是主要风险:芳樟醇氧化后气味变涩、致敏风险上升,长期在透明玻璃货架下会变黄。高温加速乙酸芳樟酯水解,使香型由清甜转生涩。pH 漂移影响明显,体系从 5.5 掉到 4.0 时香型会有可感知的变化,做酸性精华必须做六个月的香气跟踪,而不是只看外观与 pH 数据。防护做法:棕瓶或不透明包材、避光仓储、25℃ 以下、原料满瓶充氮;料体内配生育酚做油相抗氧并加螯合剂。每批留香气标样,量产按标样比对。

Processing notes

降温至 40℃ 以下加入;沐浴、洗发类高表活体系可与香精一起在降温阶段加。若客户要求做天然无香精定位,薰衣草油实际就在承担香精角色,报价时要把成本与批次香气波动一并说清:不同产地(法国高海拔、保加利亚、新疆)酯含量差异大,香型不可能靠一次打样锁死,合同里要保留香型复核环节与标准留样条款。高浓度会溶胀 PS 与部分密封垫,滴管胶头选丁基胶或氟胶。与薄荷、茶树共线必须清线,与其它花香型共线风险较小。

What it addresses

主要成分为芳樟醇与乙酸芳樟酯,气味接受度高,常用于放松、舒缓的香气方向设计。在草本配方里还常被用来调和植物提取物的本底气味。它在配方中主要承担感官角色,不宜作为功能主体。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为香料类原料常规使用,须确认在国内已使用原料目录范围内并按备案资料要求填报;安神、助眠类表述超出化妆品范畴,须回避,以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

常规使用;所含致敏性香料组分达到标示门槛时须在成分表单独列出,加量上去后极易跨过门槛,按当前清单复核,以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

作为化妆品香料原料常规使用;香气与放松方向的表述须避免进入药效范畴,以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

日韩及东南亚主要市场常规使用,部分市场对香料致敏组分标示与精油总量另有要求,按目标国规则复核,以最新官方文本为准。

Listing in the China inventory

Inventory no.

07299

Standard Chinese name

薰衣草（LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA）油

Max historical use, rinse-off

2.4%

Max historical use, leave-on

2.0979%

Source

国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Listed (07299)

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Listed (34989) · 功能 FRAGRANCE, TONIC · 限制 III/360

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

真薰衣草精油,狭叶薰衣草油,Lavender Oil,Lavandula angustifolia

CAS

8000-28-0(薰衣草油通用登记号;另见 90063-37-9,以供应商 COA 批次文件为准)

Suits formats

Cream · Lotion · Serum · Essence · Balm · Cleanser · Sheet mask

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明。稀释规格若以乙醇为载体,清真线须换载体或索取相应说明。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

高

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