sothys Restructuring Creme

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Butylene Glycol
4. Myristyl Myristate
5. Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters
6. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
7. Isononyl Isononanoate
8. Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
9. Ethylhexyl Palmitate
10. Glycol Palmitate
11. Hexyl Laurate
12. Hydroxyethyl Urea
13. Dimethicone
14. Beheneth-25
15. Glyceryl Stearate
16. Polymethylsilsesquioxane
17. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
18. Propanediol
19. Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
20. Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
21. Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Extract
22. Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract
23. Glycine Soja Oil Unsaponifiables
24. Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables
25. Parfum
26. Carbomer
27. Caprylyl Glycol
28. Disodium EDTA
29. Cichorium Intybus Root Extract
30. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
31. Tocopheryl Acetate
32. Pollen Extract
33. Sodium Hydroxide
34. Citric Acid
35. Caprylhydroxamic Acid
36. Biosaccharide Gum-1
37. Phenoxyethanol
38. Sodium Lactate
39. Yeast Extract
40. Glyceryl Caprylate
41. Sodium Levulinate
42. Polysorbate 20
43. Disodium Phosphate
44. Crocus Sativus Flower Extract
45. Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
46. Xanthan Gum
47. Sodium Phosphate
48. Ethylhexylglycerin
49. Saccharide Isomerate
50. Pvm/Ma Copolymer
51. P-Anisic Acid
52. Pentylene Glycol
53. Sodium Benzoate
54. Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
55. Tocopherol
56. Sorbic Acid
57. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
58. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains essential oilsContains siliconesContains EU-26 allergensContains fragrance

Formulation view Rich restructuring cream using glycerin and polyols for hydration, blended with shea butter, macadamia oil, and silicones for occlusion. Includes astragalus, atractylodes, and soy unsaponifiables. Suitable for dry and compromised skin. Formulation note: the heavy oil phase offers strong occlusion but high-melting waxes may feel burdensome for oily skin, recommending it as a intensive night treatment.

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

DENATURANT

Glycerin

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Myristyl MyristateTribehenin PEG-20 Esters

SKIN CONDITIONING

Butyrospermum Parkii ButterMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

ANTISTATIC

Isononyl Isononanoate

Other ingredients

Ethylhexyl PalmitateGlycol PalmitateHexyl LaurateHydroxyethyl UreaDimethiconeBeheneth-25Glyceryl StearatePolymethylsilsesquioxaneAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerPropanediolOlea Europaea Oil UnsaponifiablesAstragalus Membranaceus Root ExtractAtractylodes Macrocephala Root ExtractBupleurum Falcatum Root ExtractGlycine Soja Oil UnsaponifiablesTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil UnsaponifiablesParfumCarbomerCaprylyl GlycolDisodium EDTACichorium Intybus Root ExtractMethyl Methacrylate CrosspolymerTocopheryl AcetatePollen ExtractSodium HydroxideCitric AcidCaprylhydroxamic AcidBiosaccharide Gum-1PhenoxyethanolSodium LactateYeast ExtractGlyceryl CaprylateSodium LevulinatePolysorbate 20Disodium PhosphateCrocus Sativus Flower ExtractGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid CopolymerXanthan GumSodium PhosphateEthylhexylglycerinSaccharide IsomeratePvm/Ma CopolymerP-Anisic AcidPentylene GlycolSodium BenzoateSophora Japonica Flower ExtractTocopherolSorbic AcidPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Myristyl Myristate

Di-C14 ester, waxy solid for thickening and conditioning; provides matte and smooth feel, low comedogenicity, good for compacts.

Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters

Non-ionic emulsifier and conditioner with cleansing properties; contains PEG derivative, check compatibility

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Isononyl Isononanoate

Light, low-viscosity ester emollient; excellent spreadability, good for gels and light lotions

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Light emollient rich in oleic acid; suitable for dry/sensitive skin, pairs well with occlusives.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Synthetic ester emollient with light skin feel; small molecule, slightly comedogenic, use cautiously for acne-prone skin, often blended with other oils.

Glycol Palmitate

Not decoded yet

Hexyl Laurate

Light ester emollient for silky feel; 1-5%, monitor oxidative stability

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Potent humectant and conditioner; high penetration, used for skin hydration and hair care

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Beheneth-25

Not decoded yet

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Silicone polymer for emolliency, matte effect, and suspension; used in foundations or powder suspensions, typical usage 1-5%, smooth skin feel.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Olive oil unsaponifiables; rich in squalene and vitamin E. Use at 1-2% for repair; stable.

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Astragalus root extract for antioxidant and barrier-support conditioning

Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Extract

Botanical extract used for skin conditioning; public irritancy/comedogenic data unavailable. Monitor for plant-derived allergens.

Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract

Arctic licorice root extract used for skin conditioning; a traditional botanical, monitor for potential plant sensitization.

Glycine Soja Oil Unsaponifiables

Not decoded yet

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables

Not decoded yet

Parfum

Fragrance for scent; may contain allergens, caution for sensitive skin, full labeling required.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Cichorium Intybus Root Extract

Chicory root extract with fragrance and skin-conditioning roles; plant-derived, confirm extraction process.

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

MMA crosspolymer for durable water-soluble film; high doses may create occlusion

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Pollen Extract

Pollen extract for skin protection and conditioning; high sensitization risk for pollen-allergic individuals.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Chelating agent to stabilize metal ions; often paired with antioxidants for system stability, used at low levels

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Biosaccharide Gum-1, fermented colloid for hydration and soothing, low comedogenic.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Lactate

Sodium lactate for moisturizing and exfoliation; pH buffering agent

Yeast Extract

Yeast extract for skin care and protection; common, low allergy risk

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

Sodium Levulinate

Sodium levulinate, natural-derived humectant; generally mild, often used in blends.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Disodium Phosphate

Phosphate buffer for pH adjustment and preservation; water-soluble; high levels may irritate mucous membranes.

Crocus Sativus Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Acrylate copolymer for thickening and moisturizing; synthetic polymer with low sensitization risk.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Sodium Phosphate

Phosphate buffer and anti-seborrheic; pH regulator, aids sebum control, high levels are irritating

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Film former at 1–5%; for styling/hair care, provides lasting effect

P-Anisic Acid

Fragrance/preservative booster; odorous, low usage, patch test recommended

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Sophora Japonica Flower Extract

Sophora flower extract for skin protection, common in soothing formulations.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Sorbic Acid

Preservative effective at low pH, often combined with sorbate salts; check regulatory limits

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 for repair; requires lipid carrier, unstable in aqueous phase

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 boosts collagen; use 0.1–1%, formulate with lipid carriers

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