chantecaille Retinol Intense +

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Rosa Damascena Flower Water
2. Aqua/Water/Eau
3. C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester
4. Niacinamide
5. Glycerin
6. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
7. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
8. Dimethicone
9. Polysorbate 20
10. Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate
11. Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
12. PEG-8
13. Saccharide Isomerate
14. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
15. Carbomer
16. Cetyl Alcohol
17. Glycine Soja Seed Extract
18. Ci 77891
19. Silica
20. Maltodextrin
21. Ethylhexylglycerin
22. Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
23. Caprylyl Glycol
24. Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
25. Oenothera Biennis Oil
26. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
27. Retinol
28. Sodium Hydroxide
29. Disodium EDTA
30. Lecithin
31. Tocopheryl Acetate
32. Chondrus Crispus Powder
33. Glycyrrhetinic Acid
34. Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax
35. Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax
36. Narcissus Poeticus Flower Wax
37. Sodium Hyaluronate
38. Tocopherol
39. Sodium Polyacrylate
40. Jasminum Officinale Oil
41. Citric Acid
42. Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
43. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
44. Sodium Citrate
45. Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
46. Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
47. Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
48. Ascorbyl Palmitate
49. Malva Sylvestris Leaf Extract
50. Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
51. Phenoxyethanol
52. Ascorbic Acid
53. [Citronellol
54. Geraniol
55. Benzyl Benzoate
56. Linalool]

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains fragranceContains PEGContains siliconesContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergens

Formulation view Rose water base with niacinamide and retinols in a light ester and silicone emulsion. Enriched with soy and shea extracts. Ideal for multi-active skincare. Formulator note: High-concentration actives like retinol and niacinamide may increase irritation; light oils and cyclodextrin balance activity with texture.

Key ingredients

FRAGRANCE

Rosa Damascena Flower WaterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride

溶剂

Aqua/Water/Eau

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

Other ingredients

Polysorbate 20Sodium Potassium Aluminum SilicateHydroxypropyl CyclodextrinPEG-8Saccharide IsomeratePotassium Cetyl PhosphateCarbomerCetyl AlcoholGlycine Soja Seed ExtractCi 77891SilicaMaltodextrinEthylhexylglycerinButyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylyl GlycolMacadamia Integrifolia Seed OilOenothera Biennis OilSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilRetinolSodium HydroxideDisodium EDTALecithinTocopheryl AcetateChondrus Crispus PowderGlycyrrhetinic AcidAcacia Decurrens Flower WaxJasminum Grandiflorum Flower WaxNarcissus Poeticus Flower WaxSodium HyaluronateTocopherolSodium PolyacrylateJasminum Officinale OilCitric AcidCoffea Arabica Seed ExtractSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateSodium CitratePelargonium Graveolens OilRosa Damascena Flower OilMagnolia Officinalis Bark ExtractAscorbyl PalmitateMalva Sylvestris Leaf ExtractVitis Vinifera Seed ExtractPhenoxyethanolAscorbic Acid[CitronellolGeraniolBenzyl BenzoateLinalool]

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Aromatic hydrosol base; provides scent and conditioning benefits.

Aqua/Water/Eau

Water as solvent/base; main ingredient, microbial control needed, paired with preservatives.

C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester

Non-ionic emulsifier/solubilizer, C12-20 PEG-8 esters; mild but PEG stability needs watch.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Lightweight mid-chain ester, quick spreading, suitable for oily skin, non-comedogenic.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate

Powder bulker for matte finish. Potential comedogenic, limit usage in acne-prone formulations.

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Cyclodextrin to complex fragrances/actives; boosts solubility and stability.

PEG-8

Not decoded yet

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cetyl phosphate potassium, O/W emulsifier; pH-sensitive, often requires buffering.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Soybean extract for skin conditioning; low allergen risk, monitor batch protein variability.

Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide inorganic pigment and UV filter; assess inhalation risk for nano-forms and EU restrictions

Silica

Silica powder at 1–10%; absorbs oil, thickens, provides matte finish, for oil-control products

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Shea butter for occlusive moisturizing; high melt point, rich texture, caution for oily skin.

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Light emollient rich in oleic acid; suitable for dry/sensitive skin, pairs well with occlusives.

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Natural oil rich in GLA; supports barrier, prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Common in dry/damaged hair; superior penetration vs mineral oils, low comedogenic risk, poor oxidative stability.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Seaweed powder for gentle physical exfoliation; absorbs water; for scrubs and care, no chemical irritation.

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Glycyrrhizic acid; anti-inflammatory; poor water solubility, needs solubilization.

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Plant wax for emollience and film formation; blend with other waxes for melting point.

Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax

Jasmine wax fraction for fragrance; natural allergen source requires risk assessment.

Narcissus Poeticus Flower Wax

Waxy fraction with floral notes; minor usage as fragrance component; check for allergens

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Sodium Polyacrylate

Superabsorbent resin, <1%; gels with electrolytes, ionic strength control required.

Jasminum Officinale Oil

Jasmine oil containing potent allergens (e.g., jasmine lactone); EU 26 allergen requiring mandatory labeling; high sensitization risk.

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Coffee extract for skin conditioning/antioxidants; contains caffeine, watch sensitivity.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Pelargonium graveolens oil containing citronellol and geraniol; used as perfuming agent, contains labeled allergens requiring compliance checks.

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Rose essential oil with strong scent; contains allergens, requires IFRA compliance.

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Magnolia bark extract with honokiol; antimicrobial and conditioning, use within safe effective range.

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl palmitate, lipophilic Vit C ester, antioxidant; oxidizes, needs light/air protection.

Malva Sylvestris Leaf Extract

Soothing extract for sensitive skin; auxiliary use; aqueous, requires preservation

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Grape seed extract with OPCs; potent antioxidant; used for skin protection and UV support; needs stabilizers.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C, potent antioxidant requiring acidic environment for stability; oxidizes and discolors easily, needs light and air protection, concentration 1-10%, pure L-ascorbic acid is more irritating.

[Citronellol

Citronellol; common in essential oils; EU 26 allergen, requires declaration; monitor phototoxicity

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

Benzyl Benzoate

Chelating agent for stability; restricted substance, not permitted as single component or in mixtures at ≥0.1%.

Linalool]

Linalool, primary fragrance note, strong allergen; requires labeling under EU 26 allergens, regulated concentration

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