dermaceutic Yellow Cream

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Butylene Glycol
3. Glycolic Acid
4. Cetearyl Alcohol
5. Glyceryl Stearate
6. Ceteareth-20
7. Cetyl Palmitate
8. Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
9. Propylene Glycol
10. Glycine Soja Oil
11. Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
12. Kojic Acid
13. Maltodextrin
14. Triethanolamine
15. Pentylene Glycol
16. Alpha-Arbutin
17. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
18. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
19. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
20. Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
21. Salicylic Acid
22. Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
23. Tocopheryl Acetate
24. Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil
25. Morus Alba Bark Extract
26. Morus Alba Root Extract
27. Xanthan Gum
28. Sodium Metabisulfite
29. Undecylenic Acid
30. Tetrasodium EDTA
31. Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
32. Polysorbate 60
33. Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
34. Sorbitan Isostearate
35. Sodium Hydroxide
36. Ci 19140

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains sulfatesContains PEG

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

HUMECTANT

Butylene GlycolPropylene Glycol

BUFFERING

Glycolic Acid

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Cetearyl AlcoholGlyceryl StearateCetyl PalmitateGlycine Soja Oil

Other ingredients

Ceteareth-20Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf ExtractUndecylenoyl PhenylalanineKojic AcidMaltodextrinTriethanolaminePentylene GlycolAlpha-ArbutinHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerMagnesium Aluminum SilicatePrunus Amygdalus Dulcis OilPrunus Armeniaca Kernel OilSalicylic AcidSimmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopheryl AcetateTriticum Vulgare Germ OilMorus Alba Bark ExtractMorus Alba Root ExtractXanthan GumSodium MetabisulfiteUndecylenic AcidTetrasodium EDTAGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractPolysorbate 60Scutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractSorbitan IsostearateSodium HydroxideCi 19140

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid for exfoliation; requires buffering at concentrations >10%, avoid combination with other acids.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Ceteareth-20

Not decoded yet

Cetyl Palmitate

Waxy ester increasing viscosity and providing heavy feel; used as emulsifier carrier, low comedogenicity, strong occlusion.

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Glycine Soja Oil

Soybean oil emollient; prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants; suitable for dry skin

Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Synthetic peptide emollient regulating sebum and hydration; low comedogenic, used in acne-prone and oily skin formulas.

Kojic Acid

Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; EU limit 1% in water, unstable and requires light protection, potential irritation.

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine for buffering; restricted, limit concentration to avoid high pH and irritation

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Alpha-Arbutin

Whitening antioxidant, inhibits tyrosinase; use 1-2%, avoid strong acids

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

High-molecular-weight thickener and emulsion stabilizer; requires electrolytes or acid adjustment near isoelectric point for optimal performance.

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Oil-absorbing powder at 5–20%; for pressed/powder makeup, high levels may feel heavy

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Sweet almond oil, light emollient; suitable for sensitive skin, caution for nut allergies.

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Plant oil for emollience and nutrition; contains proteins that may cause sensitivity, use caution in sensitive skin

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Common in dry/damaged hair; superior penetration vs mineral oils, low comedogenic risk, poor oxidative stability.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

Nutrient-rich emollient with Vit E; low irritancy but relevant for gluten-sensitive; prone to oxidation, needs antioxidants

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Mulberry bark extract for skin conditioning; niche ingredient, stability and safety data limited

Morus Alba Root Extract

Mulberry root extract with resveratrol-like compounds; whitening and conditioning; plant-based, control concentration to avoid irritation.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant/preservative at 0.05–0.2%; irritating for sensitive skin, avoid with oxidizers

Undecylenic Acid

Undecylenic acid; antimicrobial, emulsifier, fragrance; irritant at >1%

Tetrasodium EDTA

Chelator removing metal ions to enhance antioxidant and preservative efficacy; very low usage, typically 0.05-0.1%, no direct skincare function.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Scutellaria root extract with baicalin for antioxidant and soothing effects; also provides astringent and humectant properties.

Sorbitan Isostearate

Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Ci 19140

Acid Yellow 23 lake; for coloring and hair dyeing. High water solubility and precipitation risk, pH control required.

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