Angelica Sinensis Root Extract

Incompatibilities and failure points

1)与香精相互作用最明显:藁本内酯等挥发性成分会把调好的香型往药材味方向拉,而且随货架期越来越重,调香必须在加完当归之后再定案。2)高浓度乙醇体系会把挥发性成分带到顶空,开盖瞬间气味冲。3)多酚伴生物遇铁离子变深。4)与阳离子体系可能絮凝。5)与其他含香豆素类的原料(某些柑橘类精油)叠加时,光敏相关风险必须放在一起评估,不能各算各的。

Stability

主要变化路径是颜色加深与气味漂移,而不是外观崩坏。见光遇氧后色深、香气走向变化;高温回流或长时间保温会显著损失挥发性成分,直接造成批间气味不一致——这是当归类产品最常见的退货理由。常见防护做法:降温后加、避光包材、控制瓶内顶空、必要时选用经过处理并附检测报告的低香豆素规格。面部免洗类产品应向供应商索取呋喃香豆素类含量数据并纳入安全评估;冲洗类与身体用产品条件相对宽松,但不等于可以跳过评估。

Processing notes

浸膏类规格黏稠挂壁,建议先用丙二醇或丁二醇稀释成 1:4 母液再投料,既好计量也便于冲洗容器。一律降温到 40℃ 以下后加,高温投料会损失挥发性成分并让气味漂移。投料顺序上先加当归、搅拌分散均匀,再加香精做最后调整;反过来做,调香师定的头香会被当归吃掉。每批加完必须做感官确认并留样闻香,把可接受的气味范围写进内控——当归的批间气味差异是量产阶段最容易引发争议的一项,靠嘴上说「差不多」是不够的。

What it addresses

主要含阿魏酸类、藁本内酯等挥发性内酯以及多糖组分。配方中一方面参与抗氧化方向的复配,另一方面承担草本/汉方产品线的气味与调性,是少数会直接改变成品嗅觉印象的植提。要注意香豆素类(含呋喃香豆素)的含量随药材产地、部位与提取方式波动很大,不能按「当归就是光敏的」或「提取物没问题」任何一种笼统说法处理,必须要供应商给具体检测数据。

Market direction

中国 / CN

作为化妆品原料属常规使用方向,需核对收录状态与使用部位,并对香豆素类相关项做安全评估;以最新官方文本为准。

欧盟 / EU

属常规使用方向,但该市场对光敏相关成分与致敏香味成分关注度较高,需提供含量数据并完成安全评估;以最新官方文本为准。

美国 / US

属常规使用方向,按该市场化妆品监管框架与行业安全评估惯例复核,重点关注光敏与致敏相关数据;以最新官方文本为准。

亚太 / APAC

汉方与草本线接受度高,属常规使用方向,需按各国原料目录与安全评估要求分别复核;以最新官方文本为准。

Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)

中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)

Not listed

印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)

Not listed

中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database

Not listed

欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists

Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person

Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.

Basics

Synonyms and botanical name

当归根提取物,秦归,Dong Quai Root Extract,Angelica sinensis

CAS

无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)

Suits formats

Serum · Essence · Cream · Lotion · Balm · Face oil · Sheet mask

Halal and vegan

植物来源,通常可做 vegan;需确认提取溶剂(乙醇规格在部分市场需额外说明);清真需供应商出具证明。

Cost band

Mid

Evidence strength

中

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