dermalogica (德卡) Overnight Clearing Gel 成份

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Salicylic Acid
2. Water
3. PEG-32
4. Butylene Glycol
5. PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer
6. Polysorbate 20
7. Glycerin
8. PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
9. Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract
10. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
11. Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
12. Spiraea Ulmaria Extract
13. Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract
14. Crithmum Maritimum Extract
15. Yeast Extract
16. Hydrogenated vegetable oil
17. Sodium Hyaluronate
18. Biotin
19. Panthenol
20. Caffeine
21. Niacinamide
22. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
23. Camphor
24. 10-Hydroxydecanoic acid
25. Sebacic acid
26. 1,10-Decanediol
27. Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid
28. Oleanolic acid
29. Xanthan Gum
30. Carbomer
31. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
32. Ammonium glycyrrhizate
33. Zinc Gluconate
34. Zinc acetate
35. Sodium Hydroxide
36. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
37. Chlorphenesin
38. Caprylyl Glycol
39. Phenoxyethanol
40. Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil
41. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
42. Cymbopogon Martini Oil
43. Mentha Piperita Oil
44. Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
45. Citrus Limon Peel Oil
46. Foeniculum Vulgare Oil
47. Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil
48. Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
49. Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
50. Zingiber Officinale Root Oil
51. Artemisia Vulgaris Oil
52. Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
53. Piper Nigrum Seed Oil
54. Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil
55. Ocimum Basilicum Oil
56. Cymbopogon Nardus Oil
57. Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Oil
58. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
59. Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
60. Salvia Officinalis Oil
61. Thymus vulgaris

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oilsContains alcoholContains mineral oilContains fragrance

Key ingredients

ANTI-SEBORRHEIC

Salicylic Acid

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

BINDING

PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Polysorbate 20PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

DENATURANT

Glycerin

ANTIMICROBIAL

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Other ingredients

PEG-32Mahonia Aquifolium Root ExtractCamellia Oleifera Leaf ExtractSpiraea Ulmaria ExtractAesculus Hippocastanum Seed ExtractCrithmum Maritimum ExtractYeast ExtractHydrogenated vegetable oilSodium HyaluronateBiotinPanthenolCaffeineNiacinamideDipotassium GlycyrrhizateCamphor10-Hydroxydecanoic acidSebacic acid1,10-DecanediolNordihydroguaiaretic AcidOleanolic acidXanthan GumCarbomerPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilAmmonium glycyrrhizateZinc GluconateZinc acetateSodium HydroxideCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideChlorphenesinCaprylyl GlycolPhenoxyethanolMelaleuca alternifolia leaf oilRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf OilCymbopogon Martini OilMentha Piperita OilCitrus Grandis Peel OilCitrus Limon Peel OilFoeniculum Vulgare OilMentha Viridis Leaf OilPelargonium Graveolens Flower OilEucalyptus Globulus Leaf OilZingiber Officinale Root OilArtemisia Vulgaris OilLitsea Cubeba Fruit OilPiper Nigrum Seed OilMyristica Fragrans Kernel OilOcimum Basilicum OilCymbopogon Nardus OilCinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark OilCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilLavandula Angustifolia OilSalvia Officinalis OilThymus vulgaris

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

PEG-32

Not decoded yet

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer

PVM/MA cross-polymer binder/thickener; matte film, useful in fixing products.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

PEG-60 Almond Glycerides

Gentle almond-based PEG emulsifier; good for sensitive skin, monitor PEG hydrolysis

Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract

Not decoded yet

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Plant extract containing rosmarinic acid etc., with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; may contain allergenic fragrances, patch test for sensitive skin, typical concentration <1%.

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Camellia oleifera leaf extract containing tea polyphenols; acts as astringent and skin conditioner, monitor raw material consistency.

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract

Astringent/tonic plant extract for skin care; batch-to-batch variability, concentration control recommended

Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract

Horse chestnut seed extract for skin care; soothing, used in circulation products

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Sea fennel extract with ocean peptides for repair and antioxidant; water-soluble, used at low concentrations as active support.

Yeast Extract

Yeast extract for skin care and protection; common, low allergy risk

Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Occlusive emollient for smooth feel; high levels may be comedogenic, use caution for acne-prone skin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Biotin

Vitamin B7 nutrient claimant; topical effect limited, use at 1-20 ppm.

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Caffeine

Active ingredient, 0.1–2%; promotes circulation, irritation risk at high concentration.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for moisturizing/soothing; inhibits 5-LOX, water-soluble, for sensitive skin.

Camphor

Denaturant and fragrance with irritant and allergenic potential; strict concentration limits required for sensitive skin.

10-Hydroxydecanoic acid

Long-chain hydroxy fatty acid for emollience and barrier support; control concentration to avoid clogging

Sebacic acid

Sebacic acid; lipophilic buffering agent and skin conditioner; check dispersion in formulation.

1,10-Decanediol

Aliphatic diol solvent; irritant to eyes and compromised skin, avoid direct contact.

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

Lipid peroxide scavenger, BHT alternative; low dose (0.1–0.25%), check photostability

Oleanolic acid

Oleanolic acid derived from rose petals; terpene compound with floral scent used as a skin conditioning agent.

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Solubilizer and emulsifier for oil-soluble ingredients; high concentrations may cause contact dermatitis in sensitive skin.

Ammonium glycyrrhizate

Soothing anti-inflammatory and emulsifier; derived from licorice, minor allergen risk

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Zinc acetate

Not decoded yet

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Chlorphenesin

Phenolic antimicrobial; strict EU limits apply, potential allergen, careful dosing required for leave-on products.

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil

Tea tree oil, antibacterial and sebum regulating; highly sensitizing at concentrate level, dilute; avoid on broken skin.

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Rosemary leaf oil for fragrance and conditioning; essential oil, allergen risk, limit usage

Cymbopogon Martini Oil

Natural essential oil with distinct aroma; contains allergens requiring safety assessment.

Mentha Piperita Oil

Peppermint essential oil, strong cooling; highly irritating and sensitizing at high levels; dilute, avoid in sensitive skin.

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Grapefruit peel oil for fragrance; EU restricted, sensitizing properties, used as fragrance.

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil for fragrance/skin conditioning; contains allergens, mind phototoxicity and compliance

Foeniculum Vulgare Oil

Fennel essential oil used primarily for fragrance and mild antimicrobial properties.

Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil

Spearmint oil for cooling/fragrance, restricted; label allergens, limit for sensitive skin

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Aromatic essential oil; contains allergens (citronellol, limonene), requires labeling.

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Eucalyptus leaf oil, strong essential oil; high irritation, strictly limited usage

Zingiber Officinale Root Oil

Ginger root oil for fragrance; contains gingerols, irritant, use very low concentration, avoid for sensitive skin.

Artemisia Vulgaris Oil

Wormwood oil, potent essential oil containing thujone; high allergen potential, must stay below threshold and be labeled

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Litsaea cubeba fruit oil; distinct aroma, potential irritant; use as essential oil, label fully.

Piper Nigrum Seed Oil

Not decoded yet

Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil

Nutmeg kernel oil for fragrance and emolliency; contains myristin, some individuals may react to vanillin or other components.

Ocimum Basilicum Oil

Essential oil for fragrance and tonic; contains allergens, use caution on sensitive skin.

Cymbopogon Nardus Oil

Essential oil for fragrance; high allergen risk, must be labeled, risk of dermatitis

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Oil

Not decoded yet

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sweet orange peel essential oil, citrus aroma; photosensitive, be careful in daytime; irritating at high levels.

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Fragrance essential oil, 0.1–1%; contains allergens, patch test required.

Salvia Officinalis Oil

Sage oil traditionally for tonic use; as essential oil, mind concentration and labeling.

Thymus vulgaris

Not decoded yet