Brightening · Antioxidant
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
海茴香提取物
- INCI
- Crithmum Maritimum Extract
- Family
- 植物提取物
- Typical use level
- 0.1–2%
- pH window
- 4.5–7.0(以供应商规格书为准)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1) 不同供应商的「海茴香」载体形态差异极大:有的以丁二醇或甘油为溶剂,有的做成脂质体或其它包裹体系。包裹型最怕高剪切与高浓度表活,均质过头或加入表活后包裹结构被破坏,活性提前释放,外观上可能出现浑浊或颗粒。选料时必须先拿到规格书确认形态,再决定加料工序。2) 与高浓度电解质、强离子体系共存时,脂质体规格容易聚集絮凝。3) 多酚遇铁、铜离子显色,需配螯合剂并核对设备材质。4) 与乙醇超过约 15–20% 共存会破坏包裹结构,清爽型醇基精华应改用非包裹规格。5) 与 pH 低于 3.5 的高浓度果酸体系或强碱体系共存,活性与外观都不可预期,必须先做兼容小试再定配方。
Stability
低添加不等于低风险,恰恰相反:因为加量小,任何降解都直接把有效成分推向接近零,而外观上完全看不出来。所以这条原料只能靠加速试验加供应商稳定性数据双重把关,肉眼判断在这里没有意义。多酚见光遇氧降解,建议避光包材并配螯合剂。包裹型规格对温度敏感,通常要求 40°C 以下加入,超温会出现粒径变化甚至破乳。部分规格自带防腐体系,配方的总防腐设计必须把这部分计入,否则既可能超量也可能在成分表上漏标。原料本身常有储存温度要求(冷藏为多),仓储不达标会在进厂前就损失活性,这部分损失不体现在任何检测报告上。
Processing notes
1) 剂量逻辑必须先和客户讲清楚,这比任何工艺细节都重要:这类原料的意义在于落在供应商推荐区间内的活性物浓度,不是配方表上有这个名字。如果客户预算只允许加到推荐下限的十分之一,应当直接告诉他「这个加量下它只是标签成分」,由客户决定保留还是换料,并把这次沟通留痕。含糊过去,后面出功效争议时工厂要背。2) 最后加入,降温至 35–40°C 以下,低剪切搅拌 5–10 分钟即可,不要再过均质。3) 单价高,称量误差的成本被放大:小批量建议用更高精度天平并双人复核,称量器皿上的残留要用配方内溶剂洗入锅中,不要直接冲掉。4) 进料必须核对活性物含量指标,不同批次的标称含量差异会直接改变配方加量设计;同时索取冷链或阴凉运输记录。5) 供应商通常带商标名与专利叙事,签约前确认宣称使用权限与范围,避免客户直接把供应商宣传语印到包装上,风险落回工厂。
What it addresses
海茴香是生长在海岸带岩缝中的伞形科植物,常见商品形态是植物干细胞培养提取物或精制提取物,活性方向来自多酚与有机酸类。欧洲高端线常把它用在肤色均匀度与更新节奏的产品叙事上。它是典型的低添加、高单价原料,在配方里几乎不改变体系的物性,所以决定它有没有意义的是供应商标称的活性物含量与对应推荐区间,而不是配方表上出现没出现这个名字。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 需先确认该原料是否已收录于国内已使用原料目录并具备原料安全信息码;未收录则涉及新原料路径,项目周期与成本要重新评估;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧洲高端线常见使用方向;植物干细胞培养类规格的来源与工艺安全评估资料需齐备;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用方向;宣称需严格限定在化妆品范围内;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用方向;部分市场需提供植物来源、培养工艺与溶剂资料;以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 02724
- Standard Chinese name
- 海茴香（CRITHMUM MARITIMUM）提取物
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 5%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (02724)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (75393) · 功能 SKIN CONDITIONING, TONIC
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 海茴香,海蓬子(俗称易混),岩海茴香,Crithmum maritimum,Sea Fennel,Rock Samphire
- CAS
- 无单一 CAS 号(多组分植物提取物,登记号随提取工艺与溶剂而变,以供应商 COA 标示为准)
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Cream · Lotion · Sheet mask
- Halal and vegan
- 植物来源,通常可做 vegan;培养基成分与载体来源需向供应商书面确认,清真需出具证明。
- Cost band
- Premium
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
- Imagery pendingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingSalvia Miltiorrhiza Root ExtractAntioxidant
- Imagery pendingAngelica Sinensis Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPaeonia Lactiflora Root ExtractSoothing
- Imagery pendingPanax Ginseng Root ExtractAnti-ageing
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.