rationale #5 The Mask

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Octyldodecanol
4. Ethoxydiglycol
5. Pentylene Glycol
6. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
7. Niacinamide
8. Propanediol
9. Lactic Acid
10. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
11. Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
12. Mica
13. Saccharide Isomerate
14. Lauryl Lactate
15. Salicylic Acid
16. 1,2-Hexanediol
17. Saccharum Officinarum Extract
18. Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf
19. Mentha Australis Leaf Extract
20. Butylene Glycol
21. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
22. Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
23. Disodium EDTA
24. Piroctone Olamine
25. Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil
26. Sodium Hyaluronate
27. Caprylhydroxamic Acid
28. Tin Oxide
29. Polysorbate 60
30. Sorbitan Isostearate
31. Acer Saccharum Extract
32. T-Butyl Alcohol
33. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
34. Magnesium Aspartate
35. Zinc Gluconate
36. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
37. Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
38. Citrus Limon Peel Oil
39. Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
40. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Oil
41. Juniperus Mexicana Oil
42. Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
43. Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil
44. Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil
45. Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract
46. Citric Acid
47. Sodium Citrate
48. Sodium Benzoate
49. Copper Gluconate
50. Potassium Sorbate
51. Glycine
52. Serine
53. Glutamic Acid
54. Aspartic Acid
55. Leucine
56. Alanine
57. Lysine
58. Arginine
59. Tyrosine
60. Phenylalanine
61. Proline
62. Threonine
63. Valine
64. Isoleucine
65. Histidine
66. Limonene
67. Citral
68. Ci 77891

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains EU-26 allergensContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains alcohol

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Octyldodecanol

HUMECTANT

Ethoxydiglycol

SKIN CONDITIONING

Pentylene Glycol

EMULSION STABILISING

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

Other ingredients

Lactic AcidHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit ExtractMicaSaccharide IsomerateLauryl LactateSalicylic Acid1,2-HexanediolSaccharum Officinarum ExtractMelaleuca Alternifolia LeafMentha Australis Leaf ExtractButylene GlycolCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit ExtractCitrus Limon Fruit ExtractDisodium EDTAPiroctone OlamineSantalum Spicatum Seed OilSodium HyaluronateCaprylhydroxamic AcidTin OxidePolysorbate 60Sorbitan IsostearateAcer Saccharum ExtractT-Butyl AlcoholCitrus Aurantium Dulcis OilMagnesium AspartateZinc GluconateCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilCitrus Grandis Peel OilCitrus Limon Peel OilLitsea Cubeba Fruit OilCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf OilJuniperus Mexicana OilPelargonium Graveolens OilCitrus Aurantium Amara Flower OilEugenia Caryophyllus Leaf OilCitrus Australasica Fruit ExtractCitric AcidSodium CitrateSodium BenzoateCopper GluconatePotassium SorbateGlycineSerineGlutamic AcidAspartic AcidLeucineAlanineLysineArginineTyrosinePhenylalanineProlineThreonineValineIsoleucineHistidineLimoneneCitralCi 77891

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Octyldodecanol

Light emollient/emulsifier at 1-5%; low comedogenic, non-greasy feel, broadly compatible, sensitive-skin friendly.

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethoxydiglycol; high-perf solv/humectant; low irrit, EU limit 20%, watch total PEG load

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Lactic Acid

AHA pH adjuster at 0.5-5%; exfoliation/humectancy, mild at low conc., irritating at high, avoid conflict with alkaline preservatives.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

High-molecular-weight thickener and emulsion stabilizer; requires electrolytes or acid adjustment near isoelectric point for optimal performance.

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Bilberry extract; anthocyanin rich; gentle antioxid/conditioning, no pub comed data

Mica

Mineral colorant for pearlescence; heavy metal screening required

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Lauryl Lactate

Lauric lactate ester; mild emollient and emulsifier; suitable for all skin types, low allergenicity.

Salicylic Acid

Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Sugarcane extract, mainly moisturizing and conditioning; use at low levels; prone to microbes, needs preservatives.

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf

Not decoded yet

Mentha Australis Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus peel extract, provides fragrance and astringency; photosensitive due to furanocoumarins; caution in daytime or remove photoactives.

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Lemon fruit extract for fragrance and occlusive moisturizing; contains furanocoumarins, photosensitivity caution advised.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Piroctone Olamine

Antifungal/antiseborrheic agent; high-concentration irritation; avoid eye area.

Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil

Santalum spicatum seed oil; 0.5–2% oil phase; aromatic emollient, unsaturated fatty acids, store dark, low allergenicity

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Chelating agent to stabilize metal ions; often paired with antioxidants for system stability, used at low levels

Tin Oxide

Inorganic mineral pigment providing opacity and suspension; requires skin safety assessment, typically used in sunscreens or powder colorants.

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Sorbitan Isostearate

Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.

Acer Saccharum Extract

Maple extract; NMF/AA source; gentle humectant, no public irritant/comedogenic data

T-Butyl Alcohol

Fast-evaporating solvent; sharp odor and potential irritation at high levels, limit usage

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Sweet orange oil; fragrance/antioxidant, contains furanocoumarins (photosensitizing), use at night or with SPF.

Magnesium Aspartate

Magnesium aspartate; water-soluble chelant/conditioner. Use at 1-2%; check chelation efficiency.

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Bergamot essential oil, natural fragrance and photosensitizer; limit daytime use or use FCF grade

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Grapefruit peel oil for fragrance; EU restricted, sensitizing properties, used as fragrance.

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Lemon peel oil for fragrance/skin conditioning; contains allergens, mind phototoxicity and compliance

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Litsaea cubeba fruit oil; distinct aroma, potential irritant; use as essential oil, label fully.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Oil

Not decoded yet

Juniperus Mexicana Oil

Mexican juniper essential oil for scent; high levels of essential oils are irritating.

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Pelargonium graveolens oil containing citronellol and geraniol; used as perfuming agent, contains labeled allergens requiring compliance checks.

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Bitter orange flower oil, an essential oil used for fragrance and skin conditioning; contains labeled allergen compounds, caution for sensitive skin.

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Clove leaf oil for fragrance and conditioning; irritant risk at high levels, restricted by EU.

Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Citrate

Sodium citrate for buffering and chelating; adjust pH, careful with strong acid reactions.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Copper Gluconate

Copper gluconate; trace antioxidant/repair agent. Use <0.05%; high levels cause color change/irritation.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.

Aspartic Acid

Amino acid humectant and conditioner, common in rinse-off products; low levels mild, high levels may shift pH

Leucine

Amino acid for antistatic and skin/hair conditioning; used at low concentrations.

Alanine

Amino acid for antistatic and conditioning; low irritation, slight salty taste at high levels

Lysine

Amino acid conditioner for anti-static hair care; low irritation at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Tyrosine

Amino acid involved in melanin synthesis; used for hair conditioning.

Phenylalanine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning; usually part of a blend, no significant standalone efficacy data

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Threonine

Threonine, essential amino acid for hair/skin; blended with other AAs for balance.

Valine

Amino acid humectant, common in amino acid cleansers and sprays; mild, suitable for all skin types

Isoleucine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning and antistatic purposes; often blended; check taste if high.

Histidine

Amino acid humectant and antistatic agent; pH-dependent behavior, consider buffering in formulation.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Citral

Citral; citrus fragrance component, listed EU allergen, high phototoxicity risk, strict concentration limits apply.

Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide inorganic pigment and UV filter; assess inhalation risk for nano-forms and EU restrictions

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