dermaquest Advanced C Infusion Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
3. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
4. Glycerin
5. Hexyl Laurate
6. Sorbitol
7. Butylene Glycol
8. Stearic Acid
9. Glyceryl Stearate
10. PEG-100 Stearate
11. Cetyl Alcohol
12. Sorbitan Monostearate
13. Polysorbate 60
14. Dimethicone
15. PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
16. Squalane
17. Ethoxydiglycol
18. Sodium Hyaluronate
19. Sodium Mannose Phosphate
20. Mannose
21. Hydroxyapatite
22. Acetyl Zingerone
23. Mannitol
24. Ergothioneine
25. Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
26. Propylene Glycol
27. Tocopheryl Acetate
28. Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
29. Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate
30. Linoleic Acid
31. Ferulic Acid
32. Glycine Soja Sterols
33. Phospholipids
34. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract
35. Ectoin
36. Cyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate
37. Retinol
38. Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract
39. Micrococcus Lysate
40. Plankton Extract
41. Glucosamine Hcl
42. Sea Water
43. Pullulan
44. Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract
45. Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
46. Laminaria Digitata Extract
47. Saccharide Isomerate
48. Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
49. Urea
50. Polysorbate 20
51. Bakuchiol
52. Isosorbide Dicaprylate
53. Alcohol
54. Lecithin
55. Phenoxyethanol
56. Caprylyl Glycol
57. Ethylhexylglycerin
58. Hexylene Glycol
59. Sodium Benzoate
60. Gluconolactone
61. Calcium Gluconate
62. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
63. Xanthan Gum
64. Disodium EDTA
65. BHA
66. BHT
67. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
68. Limonene
69. Linalool
70. Citral
71. Geraniol

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains siliconesContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergensContains essential oils

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

ANTIOXIDANT

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

FRAGRANCE

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Hexyl Laurate

HUMECTANT

SorbitolButylene Glycol

CLEANSING

Stearic Acid

Other ingredients

Glyceryl StearatePEG-100 StearateCetyl AlcoholSorbitan MonostearatePolysorbate 60DimethiconePPG-12/Smdi CopolymerSqualaneEthoxydiglycolSodium HyaluronateSodium Mannose PhosphateMannoseHydroxyapatiteAcetyl ZingeroneMannitolErgothioneineHydrolyzed GlycosaminoglycansPropylene GlycolTocopheryl AcetateCetearyl EthylhexanoateDi-PPG-2 Myreth-10 AdipateLinoleic AcidFerulic AcidGlycine Soja SterolsPhospholipidsCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture ExtractEctoinCyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane CarboxylateRetinolArabidopsis Thaliana ExtractMicrococcus LysatePlankton ExtractGlucosamine HclSea WaterPullulanHydrolyzed Rhodophyceae ExtractChlorella Vulgaris ExtractLaminaria Digitata ExtractSaccharide IsomerateSaccharomyces Cerevisiae ExtractUreaPolysorbate 20BakuchiolIsosorbide DicaprylateAlcoholLecithinPhenoxyethanolCaprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerinHexylene GlycolSodium BenzoateGluconolactoneCalcium GluconateMagnesium Aluminum SilicateXanthan GumDisodium EDTABHABHTCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilLimoneneLinaloolCitralGeraniol

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Lipophilic Vitamin C derivative, antioxidant and brightening; more stable than VC, oil-soluble, must pair with oil phase

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Hexyl Laurate

Light ester emollient for silky feel; 1-5%, monitor oxidative stability

Sorbitol

Polyol humectant with strong hygroscopy; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives; also a solvent or adjuster.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid emulsifier, white waxy solid; adds slip feel

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Sorbitan Monostearate

Not decoded yet

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Film former, hair styling, volatile, dry touch, non-comedogenic.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Ethoxydiglycol

Ethoxydiglycol; high-perf solv/humectant; low irrit, EU limit 20%, watch total PEG load

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Sodium Mannose Phosphate

Not decoded yet

Mannose

Monosaccharide humectant that binds glycosaminoglycans to enhance hydration; extremely low allergenicity

Hydroxyapatite

Mineral abrasive/bulking agent; gentle physical exfoliant for oral care.

Acetyl Zingerone

Not decoded yet

Mannitol

Polyol humectant with binding/skin conditioning properties; high levels may cause osmotic irritation

Ergothioneine

Ergothioneine, potent antioxidant; 0.01–0.1%, water-soluble, synergizes with Vit C/E.

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Hydrolyzed GAGs for hydration/conditioning; low MW, good penetration, low irritancy.

Propylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 3-10%; hygroscopic, slight tackiness, mild irritation at high conc., verify preservative efficacy, no allergen.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Cetearyl ester for emollience/stabilizing; light texture, low comedogenicity, suitable for oily skin.

Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate

Emollient and mild cleanser; provides a slippery, soft feel to the formulation.

Linoleic Acid

Essential fatty acid for barrier repair and hydration; oxidizes easily, high levels may be comedogenic

Ferulic Acid

Antioxidant, often combined with vitamin C and E; 0.5-2%, photolabile

Glycine Soja Sterols

Plant-derived emollient and conditioner; high purity and suitable for sensitive skin

Phospholipids

Biomimetic repair and emollient, mimics skin lipids; typically processed at low temps, may be sticky at high levels

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract

Not decoded yet

Ectoin

Cosmectin and skin protector, enhances skin tolerance; water-soluble, 0.1–5% common, compatible with most systems

Cyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate

Not decoded yet

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract

Arabidopsis thaliana extract, typically used as a plant-derived antioxidant or actives; research-grade ingredient; confirm stability in final formulation

Micrococcus Lysate

Micrococcus ferment lysate with peptides/metabolites; low concentration skin conditioner, ensure sterile process.

Plankton Extract

Plankton extract for skin conditioning; low concentrations typical, ensure source purity to avoid microbial contamination.

Glucosamine Hcl

Glucosamine hydrochloride for anti-static and hair conditioning; highly water-soluble, minimal skin irritation risk.

Sea Water

Natural ingredient with salts; acts as solvent or humectant, high salt content may feel gritty

Pullulan

Microbial polysaccharide for film forming and thickening; water-soluble film former used in capsules or moisturizing films.

Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract

NOT REPORTED

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Algae extract for skin conditioning and antioxidant; typically 1-5%, monitor stability

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Seaweed extract for skin protection; moderate concentration to avoid osmotic irritation.

Saccharide Isomerate

Novel polyol humectant with skin feel improvement; high hydration, suitable for lightweight formulas.

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Yeast extract rich in peptides and vitamins for antioxidant and skin conditioning; water-soluble, low irritation risk.

Urea

Potent humectant and keratolytic, >10% has exfoliating effect; stinging sensation at high levels, sensitive skin caution

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol; antioxidant and conditioning. Often an A-alternative, prone to oxidation and color shift, needs stabilization.

Isosorbide Dicaprylate

Isosorbide dicaprylate; lightweight emollient improves roughness; low absorption, suitable for oily skin formulations.

Alcohol

Ethanol for solubility/drying at 5-15%; high conc. is drying/irritating, avoid lip/eye, low residue, balance with humectants.

Lecithin

Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Hexylene Glycol

Polyol solvent and humectant with penetration enhancement; limit concentration to avoid irritation, no specific allergen tag

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Gluconolactone

Multifunctional agent for chelation and permeation; acidic, may irritate at high levels, buffer recommended.

Calcium Gluconate

Chelator and conditioner, improves stability; water-soluble calcium source

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Oil-absorbing powder at 5–20%; for pressed/powder makeup, high levels may feel heavy

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

BHA

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); oil-phase antioxidant. Use <0.05%. Controversial at high levels.

BHT

Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sweet orange peel essential oil, citrus aroma; photosensitive, be careful in daytime; irritating at high levels.

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

Linalool

Natural fragrance component at ≤0.05%; one of EU 26 allergens, caution for sensitive skin

Citral

Citral; citrus fragrance component, listed EU allergen, high phototoxicity risk, strict concentration limits apply.

Geraniol

Geraniol for fragrance; EU 26 allergen, labeling required above 0.001%.

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