Hydrating · Barrier repair · Soothing · Conditioning
Pectin
Pectin
果胶
- INCI
- Pectin
- Family
- 多糖
- Typical use level
- 0.2–1.5%
- pH window
- 3.0–6.0(酸性体系表现最好)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
钙与多价离子是双刃剑:LM 果胶遇钙立即交联,微量硬水钙或含钙提取物就足以让体系起颗粒、结块,若要利用它成胶,钙必须做成缓释形式或在强搅下极缓慢加入。pH 高于约 6.5 时果胶发生 β-消除降解,黏度快速下降,因此不适合皂基与高 pH 体系,和碱性调理剂同用要重新评估。阴离子性质使其与阳离子聚合物、阳离子表活絮凝。与卡拉胶、海藻酸盐、刺槐豆胶等其它胶体叠加时协同效应明显,黏度与凝胶强度常远超线性叠加,必须先做流变配平再定用量,不能沿用单用数据。高浓度乙醇会使其析出。含果胶酶活性的植物提取物会缓慢降解它。
Stability
干粉稳定,吸湿后结块。溶液在 pH 3–4 最稳,pH 升高或长时间高温都会降解,高温加中性是最差组合;反复加热或返工二次加热会造成不可逆降黏,应在工艺上禁止。原料天然带浅黄色,受热与长期存放会加深,做浅色或透明产品要先确认色泽上限。冻融性一般,可能析水。体系中糖类或多元醇含量高时,HM 型的耐受性与成胶稳定性提升。微生物易感,需完整防腐并控制来料菌数。
Processing notes
干粉极易结团,必须与甘油、丙二醇或糖类预混打浆后再撒入,或使用粉液混合装置;水温 60–70 ℃ 搅拌溶解,溶解完全前不要判断黏度。生产用水必须是纯化水,含钙的自来水会直接让 LM 型出颗粒,这是最常见的现场事故。含钙原料(乳酸钙、葡萄糖酸钙、含矿物植提)不能与果胶同时高浓度直投,要稀释后细流加入并全程强搅。pH 调节顺序是先溶胶再调酸,避免在极低 pH 下溶解造成局部降解。与其它胶复配时分别配母液再合并。放大生产的坑在于小样用磁力搅拌很容易分散,大锅靠桨叶容易在锅壁形成胶皮,建议加循环泵或分散头,并延长水合时间。
What it addresses
来自柑橘皮或苹果渣的半乳糖醛酸聚合物,按甲酯化度分为高甲氧基(HM)与低甲氧基(LM)两类:HM 在低 pH 与较高糖或多元醇含量下成胶,LM 依靠钙离子交联成胶。配方中用作天然增稠与成膜组分,在酸性精华、果酸类与发酵体系里的表现好于多数胶体。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 常规使用,常见于天然与有机认证配方(是否收录以认证机构文本为准),以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用,按目标市场规则复核,以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 常规使用,以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 02697
- Standard Chinese name
- 果胶
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 10%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 6.5%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (02697)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (35880) · 功能 BINDING, EMULSION STABILISING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 果胶,柑橘果胶,苹果果胶,高甲氧基果胶 HM,低甲氧基果胶 LM,Citrus Pectin,Citrus spp.
- CAS
- 9000-69-5
- Suits formats
- Essence · Serum · Gel · Sheet mask · Lotion · Toner · Cream
- Halal and vegan
- 果蔬来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明,并确认沉淀纯化环节是否使用乙醇及其残留说明。
- Cost band
- Value
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.