11huesday Pha Refining V. Ceramide

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Butylene Glycol
3. Propanediol
4. Glycerin
5. Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
6. Methylpropanediol
7. Cetyl Alcohol
8. Gluconolactone
9. Niacinamide
10. Caprylyl Methicone
11. Glyceryl Stearate
12. Beeswax
13. PEG-100 Stearate
14. Sucrose Stearate
15. Cetearyl Glucoside
16. Ceramide NP
17. Squalane
18. Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
19. Arctium Lappa Root Extract
20. Licorice Root Extract
21. Citrus Unshiu Fruit Extract
22. Portulaca Oleracea Extract
23. Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
24. Angelica Gigas Root Extract
25. Asarum Sieboldi Root Extract
26. Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract
27. Thuja Orientalis Leaf Extract
28. Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract
29. Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
30. Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
31. Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
32. Arctium Lappa Seed Extract
33. Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
34. Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract
35. Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract
36. Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract
37. Propolis Extract
38. Centella Asiatica Extract
39. Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
40. Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
41. Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
42. Alisma Orientale Tuber Extract
43. Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract
44. Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
45. Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract
46. Angelica Dahurica Root Extract
47. Borago Officinalis Extract
48. Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
49. Althaea Officinalis Leaf/Root Extract
50. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
51. Adenosine
52. Allantoin
53. Xanthan Gum
54. PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
55. Polysorbate 60
56. Arginine
57. Carbomer
58. 1,2-Hexanediol
59. Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
60. Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
61. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains alcoholContains siliconesContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains PEGContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

HUMECTANT

Butylene Glycol

SOLVENT

PropanediolMethylpropanediol

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Cetearyl EthylhexanoateCetyl Alcohol

CHELATING

Gluconolactone

Other ingredients

NiacinamideCaprylyl MethiconeGlyceryl StearateBeeswaxPEG-100 StearateSucrose StearateCetearyl GlucosideCeramide NPSqualaneCentella Asiatica Leaf ExtractArctium Lappa Root ExtractLicorice Root ExtractCitrus Unshiu Fruit ExtractPortulaca Oleracea ExtractPolygonum Multiflorum Root ExtractAngelica Gigas Root ExtractAsarum Sieboldi Root ExtractSophora Angustifolia Root ExtractThuja Orientalis Leaf ExtractLycium Chinense Fruit ExtractGinkgo Biloba Leaf ExtractCarthamus Tinctorius Flower ExtractAnemarrhena Asphodeloides Root ExtractArctium Lappa Seed ExtractLonicera Japonica Flower ExtractForsythia Suspensa Fruit ExtractNelumbo Nucifera Seed ExtractPlatycodon Grandiflorus Root ExtractPropolis ExtractCentella Asiatica ExtractRehmannia Glutinosa Root ExtractCornus Officinalis Fruit ExtractDioscorea Japonica Root ExtractAlisma Orientale Tuber ExtractPoria Cocos Sclerotium ExtractPaeonia Suffruticosa Root ExtractSaposhnikovia Divaricata Root ExtractAngelica Dahurica Root ExtractBorago Officinalis ExtractBrassica Oleracea Italica ExtractAlthaea Officinalis Leaf/Root ExtractAloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractAdenosineAllantoinXanthan GumPEG/PPG-17/6 CopolymerPolysorbate 60ArginineCarbomer1,2-HexanediolIllicium Verum Fruit ExtractScutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Cetearyl ester for emollience/stabilizing; light texture, low comedogenicity, suitable for oily skin.

Methylpropanediol

Diol solvent and extraction carrier; enhances solubility of actives, low irritation profile.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Gluconolactone

Multifunctional agent for chelation and permeation; acidic, may irritate at high levels, buffer recommended.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Caprylyl Methicone

Volatile silicone, fresh feel, does not absorb oil, used in foundations and cushions.

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Beeswax

Beeswax, natural thickener and film former; provides occlusive moisturization, natural honey scent, animal-derived, potential allergen

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Sucrose Stearate

Succrose ester emulsifier/emolient with cleansing properties; HLB determines emulsion type.

Cetearyl Glucoside

Gentle non-ionic sugar-based emulsifier for low-irritation formulas; often co-blended

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Centella asiatica extract for repair and soothing; contains asiaticoside, good for barrier

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Burdock root extract for skin conditioning; watch for raw material impurities.

Licorice Root Extract

Used for brightening, soothing, and antioxidant effects; botanical extract, combine with sunscreen for optimal brightening.

Citrus Unshiu Fruit Extract

Citrus peel extract with Vitamin C and polyphenols; photosensitive risk, prefer night use.

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Achyronica extract with anti-inflammatory properties; monitor for heavy metals and pesticides, low-risk at typical doses

Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

Antioxidant root extract; caution advised for long-term application

Angelica Gigas Root Extract

Angelica gigas root extract; traditional care; coumarins present, note photosensitivity.

Asarum Sieboldi Root Extract

Asarum sieboldii root extract; volatile oil source for skin conditioning; monitor for sensitizing potential

Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract

Sophora root extract; matrine-rich with antimicrobial and anti-itch effects, used for skin conditioning.

Thuja Orientalis Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Goji berry extract rich in antioxidants; used for antioxidant and skin protection benefits.

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Antioxidant and microcirculation modifier rich in flavonoids; requires stability testing to prevent oxidation

Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract

Safflower flower extract containing carthamin; used for skin conditioning and antioxidant properties, not primarily a colorant.

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Anemarrhena asphodeloides root extract, soothing/conditioning; herbal, batch consistency needs validation

Arctium Lappa Seed Extract

Not decoded yet

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Honeysuckle extract for soothing; requires antimicrobial protection.

Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract

Forsythia fruit extract with antioxidant activity; low irritation

Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract

Lotus seed extract, multi-functional; antimicrobial activity, plant source requires preservation, low allergen

Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract

Not decoded yet

Propolis Extract

Propolis extract for antimicrobial care; complex composition, potential allergy risk.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract

Traditional medicinal root extract for skin conditioning; verify compatibility, patch test for sensitive skin.

Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract

Cornelian cherry fruit extract, flavonoid-rich; low-level emollient; verify allergenicity

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Dioscorea root extract used for moisturizing and repairing, boosts hydration.

Alisma Orientale Tuber Extract

Not decoded yet

Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract

Poria cocos sclerotium extract, traditional herb with polysaccharides; used as astringent/antioxidant.

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Paeonia root extract, skin protecting agent with antioxidants to defend against environmental damage

Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract

Not decoded yet

Angelica Dahurica Root Extract

Not decoded yet

Borago Officinalis Extract

Plant extract for skin care and soothing; high levels of crude extract may sensitize.

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Cavolo nero extract with polyphenols, astringent conditioner; botanical, potential pigment staining

Althaea Officinalis Leaf/Root Extract

Not decoded yet

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Aloe vera leaf extract for soothing and humectant; monitor polysaccharide level and endotoxins

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Allantoin

Skin soother at 0.5-2%; promotes cell regeneration

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer

Non-ionic copolymer used as a solvent and emulsifier aid; PEG component may increase penetration

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Star anise extract with anethole; fragrant and conditioning, allergen present, high levels risk sensitivity.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Scutellaria root extract with baicalin for antioxidant and soothing effects; also provides astringent and humectant properties.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

High-molecular-weight thickener and emulsion stabilizer; requires electrolytes or acid adjustment near isoelectric point for optimal performance.

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