dermaceutic Mela Cream (Discontinued)
dermaceutic Dermaceutic Mela Cream (Discontinued) lists 27 ingredients on its label, 25 decoded. See what each one does, its irritancy and comedogenic tendency, and its status in national inventories.
Ingredients overview
Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.
Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.
- Aqua
- Paraffinum Liquidum
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- Sodium Hydroxide
- Kojic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Arbutin
- Mandelic Acid
- Salicylic Acid
- Glycyrrhetinic Acid
- Retinol
- Polysorbate 20
- Phytic Acid
- Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
- Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
- Tocopherol
- Glucosamine Sulfate
- Ceteareth-12
- Lecithin
- Phenoxyethanol
- Benzyl Alcohol
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Potassium Sorbate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate
- Disodium Phosphate
- Dipotassium Phosphate
Highlights
Free of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains PEGContains essential oilsContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergensContains sulfates
Key ingredients
- SOLVENT
- Aqua
- ANTISTATIC
- Paraffinum Liquidum
- SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- BUFFERING
- Sodium Hydroxide
- ANTIOXIDANT
- Kojic AcidArbutin
- SMOOTHING
- Niacinamide
- ANTIMICROBIAL
- Mandelic Acid
Other ingredients
Salicylic AcidGlycyrrhetinic AcidRetinolPolysorbate 20Phytic AcidGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractUndecylenoyl PhenylalanineTocopherolGlucosamine SulfateCeteareth-12LecithinPhenoxyethanolBenzyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerinPotassium SorbateSodium Lauryl SulfateSodium Cetearyl SulfateDisodium PhosphateDipotassium Phosphate
Skim through
| Ingredient | What it does | Irr. · Com. | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aqua | SOLVENT | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Paraffinum Liquidum | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN PROTECTING, SOLVENT | 0 · 2 | Green |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, EMULSION STABILISING, SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING, OPACIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Sodium Hydroxide | BUFFERING, DENATURANT · 限制 III/15a | 3 · – | Green |
| Kojic Acid | ANTIOXIDANT, BLEACHING · 限制 III / 375 | 2 · 0 | Yellow |
| Niacinamide | SMOOTHING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Arbutin | ANTIOXIDANT, BLEACHING, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III/378 | 0 · 0 | Yellow |
| Mandelic Acid | ANTIMICROBIAL | 2 · 0 | Green |
| Salicylic Acid | ANTI-SEBORRHEIC, HAIR CONDITIONING, KERATOLYTIC, FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE, SKIN CONDITIONING · 限制 III/98 V/3 | 2 · 0 | Yellow |
| Glycyrrhetinic Acid | SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Retinol | SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS · 限制 III/376 | 3 · 0 | Yellow |
| Polysorbate 20 | SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Phytic Acid | CHELATING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract | BLEACHING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SMOOTHING, SOOTHING, PERFUMING | — | Green |
| Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine | SKIN CONDITIONING | – · 0 | Green |
| Tocopherol | ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Glucosamine Sulfate | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Ceteareth-12 | Not decoded yet | — | — |
| Lecithin | ANTISTATIC, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Phenoxyethanol | ANTIMICROBIAL, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/29 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Benzyl Alcohol | PRESERVATIVE, SOLVENT, VISCOSITY CONTROLLING, PERFUMING · 限制 III/45 and V/34 | 1 · 0 | Yellow |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | DEODORANT, SKIN CONDITIONING | 0 · 0 | Green |
| Potassium Sorbate | FRAGRANCE, PRESERVATIVE · 限制 V/4 | 0 · – | Yellow |
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate | CLEANSING, DENATURANT, FOAMING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 4 · 0 | Yellow |
| Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate | CLEANSING, FOAMING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING | 2 · – | Green |
| Disodium Phosphate | ANTICORROSIVE, BUFFERING, FRAGRANCE | 1 · 0 | Green |
| Dipotassium Phosphate | ANTICORROSIVE, BUFFERING | 0 · 0 | Green |
Ingredients explained
- Aqua
- Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical
- Paraffinum Liquidum
- Mineral oil occlusive; high moisture retention but heavy feel, moderate comedogenicity, caution for acne-prone skin.
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- Fatty alcohol emulsifier at 1-5%; non-ionic surfactant
- Sodium Hydroxide
- Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care
- Kojic Acid
- Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; EU limit 1% in water, unstable and requires light protection, potential irritation.
- Niacinamide
- Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity
- Arbutin
- Tyrosinase inhibitor for whitening; typical use 1-2%, comply with EU restrictions on specific arbutins.
- Mandelic Acid
- Alpha-hydroxy acid for exfoliation and antibacterial effects; mild penetration, less photosensitivity than other AHAs
- Salicylic Acid
- Lipophilic BHA at 0.5-2%; exfoliant/sebum control, irritation/sensitization at high conc., photosensitivity (SPF needed), avoid sensitive/pregnant.
- Glycyrrhetinic Acid
- Glycyrrhizic acid; anti-inflammatory; poor water solubility, needs solubilization.
- Retinol
- Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated
- Polysorbate 20
- Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.
- Phytic Acid
- Natural chelator for formula stability; acidic, may shift pH at high levels.
- Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
- Liquorice root extract for soothing and brightening; batch variability, watch polyphenol interactions
- Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
- Synthetic peptide emollient regulating sebum and hydration; low comedogenic, used in acne-prone and oily skin formulas.
- Tocopherol
- Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light
- Glucosamine Sulfate
- Not decoded yet
- Ceteareth-12
- Not decoded yet
- Lecithin
- Phospholipid emulsifier at 1-5%; biocompatible, moisturizing/antioxidant, prone to oxidation (add TBHQ), mild for sensitive skin.
- Phenoxyethanol
- Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin
- Benzyl Alcohol
- Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.
- Ethylhexylglycerin
- Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel
- Potassium Sorbate
- Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- Strong anionic surfactant, high foam; high irritation risk, avoid in sensitive formulas.
- Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate
- Anionic surfactant with strong foaming and cleansing power; milder than SLS but can still irritate dry skin.
- Disodium Phosphate
- Phosphate buffer for pH adjustment and preservation; water-soluble; high levels may irritate mucous membranes.
- Dipotassium Phosphate
- Buffer, pH control, non-irritating, non-comedogenic.
Source: full ingredient list published on the product label, collected 2026-09-19. Ratings are our internal reading, not a regulatory conclusion. · Product page
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