Elta MD barrier renewal complex

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Purified Water
2. Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
3. Niacinamide
4. Glycerin
5. Glyceryl Stearate
6. Peg-100 Stearate
7. Dimethicone
8. Ceramide Np
9. Cholesterol
10. Ceramide Eos
11. Cetyl Alcohol
12. Ceramide Ns
13. Ceteareth-25
14. Ceramide Eop
15. Caprooyl Sphingosine
16. Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
17. Ceramide Ap
18. Hyaluronic Acid
19. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
20. Xylitylglucoside
21. Squalane
22. Anhydroxylitol
23. Peg-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether
24. Polyisobutene
25. Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract
26. Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
27. Bromelain
28. Tocopherol
29. Xylitol
30. Ficin
31. Glutamine
32. Biotin
33. Proline
34. Behenic Acid
35. Carbomer
36. Citric Acid
37. Sodium Hydroxide
38. Butylene Glycol
39. Benzyl Alcohol
40. Potassium Sorbate
41. Phenoxyethanol
42. Hexadecanol
43. Sodium Bisulfite
44. Disodium Edta

Highlights

Free of fragranceFree of parabensFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of essential oilsFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains siliconesContains animal-derivedContains alcoholContains EU-26 allergens

Formulation view Water-oil emulsion rich in ceramides, cholesterol, and niacinamide, combined with humectants. Aims to repair the barrier and improve texture, suitable for damaged or sensitive skin. Manufacturing observation: the long ingredient list with multiple actives requires precise control of oil-water ratios and pH to prevent interference between components and ensure physical stability during storage.

Key ingredients

溶剂

Purified Water

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Ethylhexyl IsononanoateGlyceryl Stearate

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

Peg-100 Stearate

ANTIFOAMING

Dimethicone

HAIR CONDITIONING

Ceramide Np

Other ingredients

CholesterolCeramide EosCetyl AlcoholCeramide NsCeteareth-25Ceramide EopCaprooyl SphingosineCaprooyl PhytosphingosineCeramide ApHyaluronic AcidHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerXylitylglucosideSqualaneAnhydroxylitolPeg-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut EtherPolyisobutenePiptadenia Colubrina Peel ExtractActinidia Chinensis Fruit ExtractBromelainTocopherolXylitolFicinGlutamineBiotinProlineBehenic AcidCarbomerCitric AcidSodium HydroxideButylene GlycolBenzyl AlcoholPotassium SorbatePhenoxyethanolHexadecanolSodium BisulfiteDisodium Edta

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Purified Water

Deionized or purified water serving as the formulation solvent base; requires protection from microbial contamination, typically constitutes the majority of the formula.

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

Light synthetic ester for smooth, non-greasy feel; low irritation, non-comedogenic

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

Peg-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Dimethicone

Silicone occlusive at 1–5%; provides smooth feel, non-penetrating, suitable for sensitive skin

Ceramide Np

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Ceramide Eos

Barrier-repairing ceramide, 0.1–1%; optimal with hydrated lipids, suitable for dry skin

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide NS for barrier repair; gentle and suitable for sensitive or dry skin.

Ceteareth-25

Not decoded yet

Ceramide Eop

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning; often formulated with other lipids.

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Plant-derived biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning.

Ceramide Ap

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Hyaluronic Acid

High-water-binding humectant at 0.1-1%; high-MW for surface film, low-MW for dermal potential, check cationic compatibility.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

High-molecular-weight thickener and emulsion stabilizer; requires electrolytes or acid adjustment near isoelectric point for optimal performance.

Xylitylglucoside

Polyol humectant with high water absorption and fresh feel; often co-used with propylene glycol for enhanced hydration.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Anhydroxylitol

Anhydrous xylitol, potent humectant; high hygroscopicity may cause stickiness at high levels.

Peg-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether

PEG-containing non-ionic surfactant for emulsification and cleansing; monitor PEG contamination and sensitive skin compatibility.

Polyisobutene

Inert film former and occlusive; increases viscosity, slippery feel, used in lipsticks

Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract

Botanical extract acting as humectant; specific plant source, assess purity and batch stability.

Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract

Botanical extract used as a skin conditioning agent

Bromelain

Bromelain protease at 0.1–1% for gentle exfoliation; protein hydrolase, avoid long-term co-use with strong acids

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Xylitol

Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.

Ficin

Papain, exfoliating enzyme, control pH and concentration, caution for protein sensitivity.

Glutamine

Amino acid used for hair and skin conditioning; offers antistatic and moisturizing synergy.

Biotin

Vitamin B7 nutrient claimant; topical effect limited, use at 1-20 ppm.

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Behenic Acid

Behenic acid, emulsifier and thickener; high comedogenic rating, limit use on acne-prone skin.

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Sodium Hydroxide

Strong base neutralizer for pH adjustment; handle with extreme care

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Benzyl Alcohol

Mild preservative/solvent at 0.5-1.0%; EU allergen (labeling required), irritation risk if concentrated, avoid in infant/highly sensitive skin.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Hexadecanol

Cetyl alcohol, fatty alcohol, thickening and emulsifying, low irritancy and comedogenicity.

Sodium Bisulfite

Reducing agent and preservative in hair waving/straightening; irritating; restricted use

Disodium Edta

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

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