Antioxidant · Conditioning
Tocopherol
Tocopherol
生育酚
- INCI
- Tocopherol
- Family
- 维生素及衍生物
- Typical use level
- 0.05–0.5%;作为油相抗氧化保护常用0.05–0.2%,提高用量不等于保护更好
- pH window
- 4.0–8.0(自身不由pH主导,实际由体系决定)
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Incompatibilities and failure points
1)最反直觉的一条:用量过高会反转为促氧化。超过一定浓度后生育酚自由基来不及被再生,反而参与自由基传递,油相酸败更快、颜色更深。经验做法是控制在0.2%以内,并搭配可再生它的体系(如抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯配螯合剂,或迷迭香提取物)。2)自身带色:天然混合生育酚为黄至红棕色粘稠液,0.5%就足以把白色乳霜带成明显米黄或浅棕,浅色体系要提前算账。3)与金属离子共存时抗氧化效率明显下降,螯合剂是配套项而非可选项。4)与过氧化物类强氧化剂直接冲突。5)在高pH皂基体系中,酚羟基更易氧化,颜色加深加快。6)它只待在油相,对水相里的变色问题(如维C衍生物泛黄)完全无能为力——"加点维E防变色"是常见误用。7)大豆或葵花来源规格涉及过敏原与非转基因声明,与vegan、清真宣称一起需要向供应商索证。
Stability
它本身就是容易被氧化的分子,这正是它的工作方式。开桶后接触空气会逐渐变深变稠,原料颜色深浅可作为氧化程度的粗略判断。见光、遇热、遇金属都加速,储存需密封避光阴凉,开桶后记录日期并尽快用完。在成品中它随时间被消耗,所以"加速试验没哈败"不等于"货架期不会哈败";高不饱和油脂配方应使用过氧化值一类指标跟踪,而不是只靠闻味,等闻得出来时通常已经过了可挽回的阶段。
Processing notes
1)油相加入,建议在冷却阶段(60–70℃以下)投料,不要在80℃以上长时间保温,那等于让它先替你消耗掉一部分。2)原料粘稠,称量挂壁明显,用配方内的油冲洗容器一并投入。3)与螯合剂配合使用:螯合剂在水相、生育酚在油相,抗氧化保护要两边都有,单边布置效果有限。4)若配方含玫瑰果油、月见草油、亚麻籽油等高不饱和油脂,抗氧化体系必须在油相进锅时就到位,不能等最后再补——氧化在加热阶段就已经开始。5)采购规格必须看清:合成dl-α-生育酚、天然d-α-生育酚、混合生育酚(含β/γ/δ)三类在颜色、气味、抗氧化表现和价格上都不同,换规格等于换配方,必须重做稳定性。6)生育酚乙酸酯(Tocopheryl Acetate)不是它:乙酸酯在配方体系里几乎没有抗氧化功能,采购与配方在这里买错、用错的频率非常高,下单前逐字核对INCI。
What it addresses
油溶性酚类抗氧化剂,通过提供氢原子中断油脂的自由基链式氧化,在草本油相配方里的首要作用是保护不饱和油脂与其它易氧化组分不快速哈败。它保护的是配方本身的品质,与对皮肤的作用是两件事,写文案时不要混着说。用量与加入时机都有讲究:加多了会转为促氧化,加早了会在加热阶段先被消耗掉。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 在中国属于常规使用的化妆品原料,注意来源(大豆、葵花、棕榈等)与过敏原、非转基因等声明需向供应商索证;以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 欧盟市场常规使用,安全评估中注明规格与来源,过敏原相关信息需可追溯;以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 美国市场作为普通化妆品成分常规使用,涉及来源与过敏原的标注需按目标市场规则确认;以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩及东南亚主要市场常规使用,部分市场对原料来源声明要求较严,须逐一复核;以最新官方文本为准。
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Not listed
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (80273) · 功能 ANTIOXIDANT, FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS, SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 生育酚,维生素E,dl-α-生育酚,d-α-生育酚,混合生育酚,Vitamin E
- CAS
- 59-02-9(d-α-生育酚);dl-α-生育酚为10191-41-0
- Suits formats
- Face oil · Cream · Lotion · Balm · Serum · Stick
- Halal and vegan
- 多为植物来源(大豆、葵花、棕榈),通常可做vegan;需确认稀释载体油同为植物来源;清真需供应商出具证明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 高
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.