dermatory Retinal Essence Toner

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Water
2. Propanediol
3. Butylene Glycol
4. 1,2-Hexanediol
5. Niacinamide
6. Pentylene Glycol
7. Centella Asiatica Extract
8. Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
9. Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
10. Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
11. Hydrogenated Lecithin
12. Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
13. Sodium Hyaluronate
14. Carbomer
15. Tromethamine
16. Adenosine
17. Disodium EDTA
18. Hydrolyzed Collagen
19. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
20. Glycerin
21. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
22. Cholesterol
23. Retinal(=Retinal
24. 10Ppm)
25. Brassica Campestris Sterols
26. Tocopherol
27. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
28. Bakuchiol
29. Ceramide NP
30. Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
31. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
32. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
33. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
34. Ethylhexylglycerin

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of mineral oilFree of formaldehyde releasersContains animal-derivedContains essential oils

Key ingredients

ANTIPLAQUE

Water

SOLVENT

Propanediol

HUMECTANT

Butylene GlycolFicus Carica Fruit Extract

SKIN CONDITIONING

1,2-HexanediolPentylene Glycol

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

CLEANSING

Centella Asiatica Extract

Other ingredients

Ulmus Davidiana Root ExtractAmaranthus Caudatus Seed ExtractHydrogenated LecithinMacadamia Ternifolia Seed OilSodium HyaluronateCarbomerTromethamineAdenosineDisodium EDTAHydrolyzed CollagenCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerinPolyglyceryl-10 LaurateCholesterolRetinal(=Retinal10Ppm)Brassica Campestris SterolsTocopherolAscorbyl TetraisopalmitateBakuchiolCeramide NPAluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide StearatePotassium Cetyl PhosphatePentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateEthylhexylglycerin

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Water

Primary solvent and base; requires preservative system to prevent microbial growth

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyol solvent and preservative booster at 1–5%; light feel, can replace some traditional preservatives

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella asiatica extract for soothing/repair; low irritation, common in sensitive skin products.

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Fig fruit extract, humectant with polysaccharides and enzymes for skin moisturizing

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Plant extract for basic skin conditioning; low usage, ensure raw material consistency

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Amaranthus caudatus seed extract, skin conditioner; plant extract, focus on extract concentration and allergen screening.

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifier from lecithin; stable, used in powder emulsions

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Macadamia oil, rich in palmitoleic, good penetration; light feel; non-comedogenic.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potent humectant at 0.1–2%; different MW for penetration depth, high levels may draw moisture

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Tromethamine

pH adjuster, alkaline; precise dosing required

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed protein for film-forming and moisture; molecular weight limits penetration, check source for shellfish allergies

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Mild non-ionic emulsifier for O/W systems; cetyl ester structure may irritate sensitive skin, use at 0.5-3%.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Retinal(=Retinal

Not decoded yet

10Ppm)

Not decoded yet

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Rapeseed sterols, plant sterol esters, emollient conditioner at 0.5–3%; rich feel, low comedogenic risk

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C ester antioxidant; more stable than ascorbic acid but still light-sensitive.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol; antioxidant and conditioning. Often an A-alternative, prone to oxidation and color shift, needs stabilization.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Al-Mg stearate for emulsification and viscosity; metal soaps may migrate at high temp.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cetyl phosphate potassium, O/W emulsifier; pH-sensitive, often requires buffering.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

High-efficiency lipid-soluble antioxidant preventing oil rancidity; very low usage, typically 0.05-0.1%, ensure even distribution, avoid metal-catalyzed oxidation.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

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