rationale #2 The Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Ethylhexyl Palmitate
3. Glycerin
4. Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
5. Methylpropanediol
6. Pentylene Glycol
7. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
8. Tocopherol
9. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
10. Caprylyl Glycol
11. Isohexadecane
12. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
13. Squalane
14. Glyceryl Caprylate
15. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
16. Polysorbate 20
17. Retinol
18. Solanum Lycopersicum Seed Oil
19. Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil
20. Phenylpropanol
21. Polysorbate 60
22. Citrus Limon Fruit Oil
23. Tocotrienols
24. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
25. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
26. Superoxide Dismutase
27. Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
28. Sorbitan Isostearate
29. Butylene Glycol
30. Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Oil
31. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil
32. BHT
33. Glutathione
34. Tocopheryl Acetate
35. Ceteareth-25
36. Elaeis Guineensis Oil
37. Magnesium Aspartate
38. Zinc Gluconate
39. Brachychiton Acerifolius Flower Extract
40. BHA
41. Cetyl Alcohol
42. Ubiquinone
43. Behenic Acid
44. Ceramide NP
45. Cholesterol
46. Copper Gluconate
47. Ethylhexylglycerin
48. Phenoxyethanol
49. Ceramide NS
50. Glycine
51. Serine
52. Glutamic Acid
53. Ceramide AP
54. Ceramide EOP
55. Ceramide EOS
56. Banksia Serrata Flower Extract
57. Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract
58. Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract
59. Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
60. Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
61. Santalum Acuminatum Fruit Extract
62. Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract
63. Telopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf Extract
64. Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
65. Aspartic Acid
66. Leucine
67. Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
68. Caprooyl Sphingosine
69. Alanine
70. Lysine
71. Arginine
72. Tyrosine
73. Phenylalanine
74. Proline
75. Threonine
76. Valine
77. Isoleucine
78. Sodium Benzoate
79. Citric Acid
80. Lycopene
81. Histidine
82. Potassium Sorbate
83. Limonene

Highlights

Free of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains EU-26 allergensContains alcoholContains mineral oilContains essential oilsContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains PEG

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaMethylpropanediol

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING

Ethylhexyl MethoxycrylenePentylene Glycol

ANTIOXIDANT

Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateTocopherol

Other ingredients

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate CopolymerCaprylyl GlycolIsohexadecaneHelianthus Annuus Seed OilSqualaneGlyceryl CaprylateCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilPolysorbate 20RetinolSolanum Lycopersicum Seed OilSantalum Spicatum Seed OilPhenylpropanolPolysorbate 60Citrus Limon Fruit OilTocotrienolsCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateSuperoxide DismutaseVaccinium Macrocarpon Seed OilSorbitan IsostearateButylene GlycolBackhousia Citriodora Leaf OilCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel OilBHTGlutathioneTocopheryl AcetateCeteareth-25Elaeis Guineensis OilMagnesium AspartateZinc GluconateBrachychiton Acerifolius Flower ExtractBHACetyl AlcoholUbiquinoneBehenic AcidCeramide NPCholesterolCopper GluconateEthylhexylglycerinPhenoxyethanolCeramide NSGlycineSerineGlutamic AcidCeramide APCeramide EOPCeramide EOSBanksia Serrata Flower ExtractCitrus Australasica Fruit ExtractDavidsonia Pruriens Fruit ExtractHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower ExtractMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractSantalum Acuminatum Fruit ExtractTasmannia Lanceolata Fruit ExtractTelopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf ExtractTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractAspartic AcidLeucineCaprooyl PhytosphingosineCaprooyl SphingosineAlanineLysineArginineTyrosinePhenylalanineProlineThreonineValineIsoleucineSodium BenzoateCitric AcidLycopeneHistidinePotassium SorbateLimonene

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Synthetic ester emollient with light skin feel; small molecule, slightly comedogenic, use cautiously for acne-prone skin, often blended with other oils.

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene

Chemical UVB sunscreen agent, requires UVA pairing; potential allergen, strict concentration control needed for sensitive skin.

Methylpropanediol

Diol solvent and extraction carrier; enhances solubility of actives, low irritation profile.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C ester antioxidant; more stable than ascorbic acid but still light-sensitive.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

High-molecular-weight thickener and emulsion stabilizer; requires electrolytes or acid adjustment near isoelectric point for optimal performance.

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyol conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–3%; emollient feel, often paired with 1,2-hexanediol

Isohexadecane

Lightweight mineral-oil-derived emollient and solvent; low viscosity, non-comedogenic, improves texture

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sweet orange peel essential oil, citrus aroma; photosensitive, be careful in daytime; irritating at high levels.

Polysorbate 20

Non-ionic emulsifier and cleansing surfactant; contains PEG, control microbial load.

Retinol

Highly active and unstable, needs robust antioxidant encapsulation; 0.1-1.0%, pregnancy contraindicated

Solanum Lycopersicum Seed Oil

Tomato seed oil rich in lycopene and vitamin E; antioxidant and moisturizing repair for anti-aging and hand care formulas

Santalum Spicatum Seed Oil

Santalum spicatum seed oil; 0.5–2% oil phase; aromatic emollient, unsaturated fatty acids, store dark, low allergenicity

Phenylpropanol

Phenylpropanol for fragrance and solvent; allergen risk, requires assessment

Polysorbate 60

Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer for O/W or W/O stability; may cause mild stinging on sensitive skin, typically 1-5%.

Citrus Limon Fruit Oil

Citrus limon essential oil; aromatic and astringent, phototoxic risk, limit use in day creams per I/II 358 limits

Tocotrienols

Vitamin E isomer; potent antioxidant for lipid protection and UV synergy, light and heat sensitive.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Vitamin C derivative antioxidant at 0.5–2%; light-sensitive, requires opaque packaging

Superoxide Dismutase

Enzymatic antioxidant breaking down superoxide radicals; used as bioactive at low levels, requires strict temperature control to prevent inactivation.

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil

Blueberry seed oil rich in GLA; supports skin barrier repair; moderate comedogenic risk, patch test recommended.

Sorbitan Isostearate

Non-ionic emulsifier (low HLB); typically used in blends, low comedogenicity, soft skin feel.

Butylene Glycol

Polyol humectant and solvent at 1–5%; aids solubilization, light feel

Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Oil

Not decoded yet

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil

Bergamot peel oil with EU limits; furanocoumarin content causes photosensitivity, avoid in AM or stabilize

BHT

Lipophilic antioxidant at 0.01-0.05%; ineffective with acidic systems, label-sensitive, check regulatory limits as preservative alternative.

Glutathione

Antioxidant and brightening agent; unstable, requires antioxidants and protection from light.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Ceteareth-25

Not decoded yet

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Palm oil, emollient occlusive; saturated fats, moderate comedogenic risk.

Magnesium Aspartate

Magnesium aspartate; water-soluble chelant/conditioner. Use at 1-2%; check chelation efficiency.

Zinc Gluconate

Chelated zinc salt with antimicrobial and deodorizing effects; used in antiperspirants and oral care; has EU concentration limit.

Brachychiton Acerifolius Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

BHA

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA); oil-phase antioxidant. Use <0.05%. Controversial at high levels.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Ubiquinone

Coenzyme Q10 analog used as an antioxidant; prone to discoloration, needs protection from light and air.

Behenic Acid

Behenic acid, emulsifier and thickener; high comedogenic rating, limit use on acne-prone skin.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Copper Gluconate

Copper gluconate; trace antioxidant/repair agent. Use <0.05%; high levels cause color change/irritation.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Ceramide NS

Ceramide NS for barrier repair; gentle and suitable for sensitive or dry skin.

Glycine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; small molecule, low irritation.

Serine

Humectant amino acid, 1–3%; high water solubility, compatible with sensitive skin.

Glutamic Acid

Glutamic acid, non-essential amino acid humectant; high levels can be astringent, buffer needed.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Ceramide EOS

Barrier-repairing ceramide, 0.1–1%; optimal with hydrated lipids, suitable for dry skin

Banksia Serrata Flower Extract

Not decoded yet

Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Davidsonia Pruriens Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Roselle flower extract rich in anthocyanins, used for skin conditioning and antioxidant support

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Tea tree leaf extract for skin conditioning and perfuming; allergen risk requires dilution.

Santalum Acuminatum Fruit Extract

Santalum Album fruit extract, antioxidant-rich; typically for hair care, check allergen labeling

Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract

Not decoded yet

Telopea Speciosissima Flower/Leaf Extract

Not decoded yet

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; traditional lightening agent; antioxidant for uneven skin tone.

Aspartic Acid

Amino acid humectant and conditioner, common in rinse-off products; low levels mild, high levels may shift pH

Leucine

Amino acid for antistatic and skin/hair conditioning; used at low concentrations.

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Plant-derived biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning.

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Biomimetic lipid for hair and skin conditioning; often formulated with other lipids.

Alanine

Amino acid for antistatic and conditioning; low irritation, slight salty taste at high levels

Lysine

Amino acid conditioner for anti-static hair care; low irritation at typical cosmetic concentrations.

Arginine

Arginine for moisturizing/conditioning; amino acid, high biocompatibility, often used in blends.

Tyrosine

Amino acid involved in melanin synthesis; used for hair conditioning.

Phenylalanine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning; usually part of a blend, no significant standalone efficacy data

Proline

Proline, amino-acid humectant; boosts stratum corneum hydration, stable at pH 4-5.

Threonine

Threonine, essential amino acid for hair/skin; blended with other AAs for balance.

Valine

Amino acid humectant, common in amino acid cleansers and sprays; mild, suitable for all skin types

Isoleucine

Amino acid for hair and skin conditioning and antistatic purposes; often blended; check taste if high.

Sodium Benzoate

Preservative booster, effective below pH 4.5; combinable with sorbates

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Lycopene

Not decoded yet

Histidine

Amino acid humectant and antistatic agent; pH-dependent behavior, consider buffering in formulation.

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative effective below pH 6; combinable with sodium benzoate

Limonene

Natural fragrance solvent, EU allergen; poor photostability

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