plantheque The Turn Back Time Serum

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Glycerin
3. Persea Gratissima Oil
4. Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
5. Isosorbide
6. Squalane
7. Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil
8. Acacia Senegal Gum
9. Glyceryl Caprylate
10. Pentylene Glycol
11. Xanthan Gum
12. Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil
13. Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
14. Bakuchiol
15. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
16. Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
17. Maltodextrin
18. Tocopheryl Acetate
19. Curcuma Longa Callus Lysate
20. Decyl Glucoside
21. Ci 77891
22. Mica
23. Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
24. Inonotus Obliquus Extract
25. Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
26. Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
27. Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
28. Biosaccharide Gum-1
29. Phytic Acid
30. Silica
31. Citric Acid
32. Tin Oxide
33. Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains mineral oilContains animal-derivedContains fragranceContains essential oilsContains EU-26 allergens

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

Aqua

DENATURANT

Glycerin

SKIN CONDITIONING

Persea Gratissima OilPentylene Glycol

SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Squalane

FILM FORMING

Acacia Senegal Gum

DEODORANT

Glyceryl Caprylate

Other ingredients

IsosorbideHelianthus Annuus Hybrid OilXanthan GumVaccinium Myrtillus Seed OilAlpha-Glucan OligosaccharideBakuchiolHelianthus Annuus Seed OilCaprylyl/Capryl GlucosideMaltodextrinTocopheryl AcetateCurcuma Longa Callus LysateDecyl GlucosideCi 77891MicaMagnolia Officinalis Bark ExtractInonotus Obliquus ExtractTremella Fuciformis PolysaccharideLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateDaucus Carota Sativa Root ExtractBiosaccharide Gum-1Phytic AcidSilicaCitric AcidTin OxideRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Persea Gratissima Oil

Avocado oil rich in fatty acids and vitamin E; occlusive moisturizer, use with caution on oily skin.

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Multi-glyceride emulsifier system for gentle emulsification; unsaturated esters prone to oxidation

Isosorbide

Not decoded yet

Squalane

Emollient from plants or synthetic; light texture

Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil

Not decoded yet

Acacia Senegal Gum

Natural film-former and fragrance agent; used for viscosity or film, check purity for allergens

Glyceryl Caprylate

Mild emulsifier/deodorant at 0.5-2%; polyol ester, high humectancy, low irritancy, check cationic surfactant compatibility.

Pentylene Glycol

Polyol humectant at 1-3%; low irritancy, suitable for sensitive skin

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Bilberry seed oil, antioxidant and skin conditioner. Rich in GLA; store away from light to prevent oxidation.

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Prebiotic for microflora and smoothing; use 0.5-5%, suitable for sensitive skin

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol; antioxidant and conditioning. Often an A-alternative, prone to oxidation and color shift, needs stabilization.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sunflower seed oil for emollient/occlusive; high linoleic acid, low comedogenicity.

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, mild sugar surfactant; low irritation, moderate cleansing

Maltodextrin

High-MW multifunctional excipient for thickening, binding, and emulsion stability; inert, non-penetrating conditioning.

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitamin E derivative antioxidant at 0.1–1%; more stable than tocopherol, store protected from light

Curcuma Longa Callus Lysate

Not decoded yet

Decyl Glucoside

Mild alkyl glucoside, biodegradable; foam stabilizer, thickens with fatty alcohols, low allergenicity.

Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide inorganic pigment and UV filter; assess inhalation risk for nano-forms and EU restrictions

Mica

Mineral colorant for pearlescence; heavy metal screening required

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Magnolia bark extract with honokiol; antimicrobial and conditioning, use within safe effective range.

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Inonotus obliquus extract for skin conditioning; limited functional data

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide

Tremella polysaccharide; high-hold humectant that forms a water-retaining film, low irritation

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Bio-fermented filtrate for antimicrobial and anti-dandruff effects; assess individual variability, avoid in known allergy.

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Carrot root extract with carotenoids; skin conditioning, low photosensitivity, may stain.

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Biosaccharide Gum-1, fermented colloid for hydration and soothing, low comedogenic.

Phytic Acid

Natural chelator for formula stability; acidic, may shift pH at high levels.

Silica

Silica powder at 1–10%; absorbs oil, thickens, provides matte finish, for oil-control products

Citric Acid

Buffer and chelator at 0.1–2%; adjusts pH, may irritate sensitive skin at low pH

Tin Oxide

Inorganic mineral pigment providing opacity and suspension; requires skin safety assessment, typically used in sunscreens or powder colorants.

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Plant extract containing rosmarinic acid etc., with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; may contain allergenic fragrances, patch test for sensitive skin, typical concentration <1%.

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