Hydrating · Barrier repair · Soothing
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
银耳多糖
- INCI
- Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
- Family
- 多糖
- Typical use level
- 0.1–1%
- pH window
- 4.0–7.5
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Incompatibilities and failure points
呈阴离子性,与阳离子聚合物(聚季铵盐-7/-10、瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵)或阳离子表活混合会电荷中和,出现絮状浑浊、挂壁沉积,黏度骤降。高浓度电解质(氯化钠、硫酸镁、盐形式的活性物、含盐海藻提取物)会压缩分子链,黏度明显下降。乙醇超过约 20% 会使多糖脱水析出、体系返浊。与卡波姆或丙烯酸酯类增稠剂叠加时黏度不是线性相加,常出现过稠、拉丝、涂抹起白条,必须重新配平两者用量而不是各自照抄单用量。高浓度过氧化物类氧化性原料会切断多糖链,存放期黏度持续下滑。
Stability
干粉吸湿性强,开封后必须密封干燥保存,受潮后结块并难以完全水合。水溶液在 80 ℃ 以上长时间保温会发生链段降解,黏度不可逆下降;pH 低于 3.5 或明显偏碱同样引起水解。溶液本身营养丰富,是良好的微生物培养基,配好的胶浆不可隔夜存放,必须在防腐体系内配制并做防腐挑战。见光影响相对小,但与游离金属离子共存时氧化降解加快,建议配合螯合剂。最关键的一点是批次间分子量与黏度差异明显,同样百分比做出的成品稠度可能差一个档,应按目标黏度而不是固定百分比投料。
Processing notes
干粉必须先用冷水或甘油/丙二醇预分散再撒入水相,直接倒入静止水中表面瞬间水合会结成鱼眼,一旦形成搅不开只能过筛。推荐先配 1–2% 母液,慢搅后静置过夜让其完全水合,再按比例并入主锅,批次一致性明显更好。水相加热控制在 70–75 ℃ 以内并缩短保温时间;乳化体系建议在降温到 45 ℃ 以下并入母液。水合完成后只用桨式慢搅,高速均质会剪切降黏且不可恢复。放大生产最大的坑是每批原料黏度不同,必须在小样阶段建立黏度—添加量对照曲线,并把成品黏度写进过程检验项,而不是只核对投料百分比。
What it addresses
银耳子实体水提得到的高分子量酸性杂多糖,水溶后形成黏度很高的假塑性溶液,在皮肤表面留下连续的柔性水膜,有助于减缓表层水分散失并带来滑而不腻的铺展感。在配方里同时承担保湿方向与流变调节两个角色,常被用作合成保湿聚合物的天然替代路线。
Market direction
- 中国 / CN
- 作为真菌来源提取物类原料常规使用,需与供应商核对该原料在中国的已使用原料信息与来源物种一致性,以最新官方文本为准。
- 欧盟 / EU
- 作为化妆品原料常规使用,由供应商提供安全数据与规格支持,以最新官方文本为准。
- 美国 / US
- 常规使用,按目标市场规则复核,以最新官方文本为准。
- 亚太 / APAC
- 日韩与东南亚常规使用,部分市场对真菌来源原料要求补充来源与工艺说明,以最新官方文本为准。
Listing in the China inventory
- Inventory no.
- 07929
- Standard Chinese name
- 银耳(TREMELLA FUCIFORMIS)多糖
- Max historical use, rinse-off
- 8%
- Max historical use, leave-on
- 5%
- Source
- 国家药监局 2021 年第 62 号公告 · 已使用化妆品原料目录(2021年版)
Status by market inventory (exact INCI match)
- 中国 · Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (2021)
- Listed (07929)
- 印尼 · BPOM Technical Requirements for Cosmetic Ingredients (PerBPOM 17/2022)
- Not listed
- 中国 · Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics — prohibited and restricted
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 欧盟 · CosIng — European Commission cosmetic ingredient database
- Listed (83021) · 功能 EMULSION STABILISING, FILM FORMING, SKIN CONDITIONING
- 欧盟 · Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Annexes II to VI
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 东盟 · ASEAN Cosmetic Directive — Annexes
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 美国 · FDA prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients; color additives
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 加拿大 · Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 日本 · Standards for Cosmetics — appended tables
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 韩国 · Regulation on Safety Standards for Cosmetics
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- 巴西 · ANVISA cosmetic ingredient restrictions and positive lists
- Not on the prohibited/restricted list — not the same as unrestricted; check the full text and the responsible person
- Matched on the exact INCI name; salts, esters and synonyms may be missed. The latest official text prevails.
Basics
- Synonyms and botanical name
- 银耳多糖,白木耳多糖,雪耳提取物,Tremella fuciformis,Tremella Fuciformis Extract
- CAS
- 未确认
- Suits formats
- Serum · Essence · Toner · Sheet mask · Gel · Cream · Lotion
- Halal and vegan
- 食用真菌来源,通常可做 vegan;清真需供应商出具证明,并确认提取、沉淀与干燥环节使用的助剂与乙醇残留说明。
- Cost band
- Mid
- Evidence strength
- 中
Others in this family
Compiled from published formulation knowledge and factory experience for selection reference. Not an efficacy claim; use levels describe common published ranges, not regulatory limits; market availability is governed by the latest official texts and reviewed by the brand and its responsible person.