cipher Beam Me Up

Ingredients overview

Label order. Colour is our internal rating: green routine, yellow restricted or worth a look, red prohibited or high-risk, grey not yet decoded.

Ingredients are listed in label order; the order reflects the label only, not exact concentrations.

1. Aqua
2. Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract
3. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
4. Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
5. Niacinamide
6. Isodecyl Neopentanoate
7. Propanediol
8. Glycereth-26
9. Undecane
10. Glycerin
11. Panthenol
12. Glyceryl Stearate
13. PEG-100 Stearate
14. Glyceryl Oleate Citrate
15. Adenosine
16. Phytosterols
17. Oryzanol
18. Caffeine
19. Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
20. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
21. Xylitylglucoside
22. Beta-Glucan
23. Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
24. Superoxide Dismutase
25. Anhydroxylitol
26. Xylitol
27. Tocopherol
28. Tridecane
29. Ceramide NP
30. Ceramide AP
31. Ceramide EOP
32. Cetyl Alcohol
33. Olive Glycerides
34. Phytosphingosine
35. Cholesterol
36. Bisabolol
37. Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
38. Dextran
39. Hydroxyacetophenone
40. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
41. Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
42. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
43. Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
44. Disodium EDTA
45. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
46. Phenoxyethanol
47. Ethylhexylglycerin
48. Carbomer
49. Xanthan Gum

Highlights

Free of alcoholFree of fragranceFree of parabensFree of siliconesFree of sulfatesFree of formaldehyde releasersContains PEGContains mineral oilContains essential oilsContains animal-derived

Key ingredients

SOLVENT

AquaPropanediol

ANTIOXIDANT

Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment ExtractAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

SKIN CONDITIONING

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

SMOOTHING

Niacinamide

SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

HUMECTANT

Glycereth-26

Other ingredients

UndecaneGlycerinPanthenolGlyceryl StearatePEG-100 StearateGlyceryl Oleate CitrateAdenosinePhytosterolsOryzanolCaffeineTrifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38XylitylglucosideBeta-GlucanHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic AcidSuperoxide DismutaseAnhydroxylitolXylitolTocopherolTridecaneCeramide NPCeramide APCeramide EOPCetyl AlcoholOlive GlyceridesPhytosphingosineCholesterolBisabololZingiber Officinale Root ExtractDextranHydroxyacetophenoneCaprylic/Capric TriglyceridePolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerHydroxypropyl CyclodextrinDisodium EDTASodium Lauroyl LactylatePhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerinCarbomerXanthan Gum

Skim through

Ingredients explained

Aqua

Solvent, main base; microbial control is critical

Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract

Lactobacillus fermented Portulaca; potent antioxidant and repair agent, suits soothing and anti-inflammatory formulations

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Vitamin C ester antioxidant; more stable than ascorbic acid but still light-sensitive.

Avena Sativa Kernel Oil

Oat kernel oil for skin conditioning; moisturizing, sensitive skin friendly

Niacinamide

Niacinamide at 2–5%; improves texture, controls oil, brightens; high levels may cause sensitivity

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Volatile dry ester for make-up/emulsions; fast-drying, non-greasy, seal to prevent weight loss.

Propanediol

Polyol solvent at 1–5%; light feel, aids solubilization, propylene glycol alternative

Glycereth-26

Glycereth-26, humectant/viscosity modifier at 1–5%; non-ionic water-soluble, boosts stability and feel.

Undecane

Undecane; light aliphatic hydrocarbon emollient; high volatility, pair with occlusives, flammable

Glycerin

Workhorse humectant at 3–10%; tacky at high levels, pair with occlusives

Panthenol

Panthenol (vitamin B5) at 1–5%; moisturizing and reparative, supports barrier recovery

Glyceryl Stearate

Emulsifier at 1-3%; may require acid to prevent saponification

PEG-100 Stearate

Non-ionic emulsifier, requires ionics for stability; check PEG for formaldehyde.

Glyceryl Oleate Citrate

Emulsifier, with cleansing and moisturizing functions

Adenosine

Skin conditioner at 0.1-1%; used for anti-aging and repair

Phytosterols

Plant sterol mix for skin barrier repair and soothing; plant-derived, no reported sensitization.

Oryzanol

Rice-bran antioxidant for skin conditioning and sebum balance

Caffeine

Active ingredient, 0.1–2%; promotes circulation, irritation risk at high concentration.

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Not decoded yet

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl tripeptide; signaling peptide for collagen and antioxidants; 0.1-1% typical, light-sensitive

Xylitylglucoside

Polyol humectant with high water absorption and fresh feel; often co-used with propylene glycol for enhanced hydration.

Beta-Glucan

Polysaccharide for soothing and hydration; high MW acts on the surface, poor penetration into deep dermis.

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Bioactive marker in Evening Primrose Oil, antioxidant and soothing; used at low levels

Superoxide Dismutase

Enzymatic antioxidant breaking down superoxide radicals; used as bioactive at low levels, requires strict temperature control to prevent inactivation.

Anhydroxylitol

Anhydrous xylitol, potent humectant; high hygroscopicity may cause stickiness at high levels.

Xylitol

Polyol humectant, sweet taste; water-soluble, high hygroscopy, excess draws moisture.

Tocopherol

Natural antioxidant (vitamin E) at 0.1–1%; prone to oxidation, store protected from light

Tridecane

Tridecane, a long-chain alkane acting as emollient and solvent; petrochemical-derived, inert and low toxicity.

Ceramide NP

Ceramide N3 for barrier repair; lipophilic, needs oil phase or emulsion, avoid high standalone use.

Ceramide AP

Ceramide analog for barrier repair; best results when combined with cholesterol and free fatty acids

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide EOP, repairs skin barrier lipids; often blended with cholesterol and fatty acids.

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol for emulsification/thickening; high concentration >10% may irritate.

Olive Glycerides

Olive-derived mono/diglycerides as auxiliary O/W emulsifiers and emollients; screen olive-allergy risk.

Phytosphingosine

Phytosphingosine barrier repair ingredient, 0.1–1%; water-soluble, good for dry skin.

Cholesterol

Cholesterol; barrier repair lipid mimicking stratum corneum; often blended with ceramides, plant or fermentation source.

Bisabolol

Soothing and anti-inflammatory agent, 0.01–0.1%; low irritation, good for sensitive skin.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Root extract for scent and toning; may irritate compromised skin.

Dextran

Polysaccharide for binding; water-soluble requires preservation.

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxyacetophenone as antioxidant; often boosts Vitamin C, works in acidic pH.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Light occlusive and solvent at 1–10%; non-greasy feel, suitable for oily and combination skin

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Water-soluble thickener; requires neutralizer, performs best at pH 5–7

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

Cationic polymer providing suspension, thickening, and conditioning; often paired with anionic thickening systems, low usage, imparts slip.

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Cyclodextrin to complex fragrances/actives; boosts solubility and stability.

Disodium EDTA

Chelating agent at 0.05–0.5%; sequesters metal ions for stability, boosts preservative efficacy

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Mild emulsifier at 1–5%; suitable for sensitive skin, mind cationic surfactant compatibility

Phenoxyethanol

Broad-spectrum preservative at ≤1%; may irritate sensitive eye areas, often paired with ethylhexylglycerin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Mild conditioner and preservative booster at 0.5–1%; reduces preservative load, smooth feel

Carbomer

Gelling thickener requiring neutralization; watch out for ion compatibility

Xanthan Gum

Natural thickener at 0.1–1%; provides gel texture, pH-stable, requires full hydration

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